Jt Y yf | ’ ff ~ = a o a “8 Pe n uf ; ij At am ae Ly \ ‘/ Higa a “" IN THE * INTERIOR OF VOL. I € ys , Lonpon : © Printed by A. & R. Spo __New-Street-Squa' Pky Avy JB Ss IN THE INTERIOR OF SOUTHERN AFRICA, BY WILLIAM J. BURCHELL, Eso. VOLUME I. WITH AN ENTIRELY NEW MAP, AND NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS. LONDON : PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, AND BROWN. PATERNOSTER-ROW. 1822. PREFACE. Tue travels, of which the following pages contain the narrative, were undertaken solely for the purpose of acquiring knowlege: and it having been thought possible that the communication of facts ob- served during these researches might contribute some small portion towards the general stock of information, they are here laid before the Public. As they were commenced with a mind free from pre- judice, and in the purest spirit of independence, so they have been conducted, and so they are now concluded. It is not asserted that they are exempt from the natural chance of error to which all human observations are liable; but that their claim to be, even to the- minutest particular, regarded as a faithful picture of occurrences and observations, stands on a basis never to be shaken; the confirmation of which is readily left to every honest and unprejudiced traveller who may hereafter traverse the same ground. ‘The motive, the expense, and the accomplishment of these travels having been entirely and individually the author’s, he has therefore thought proper to adhere to the same principle in the present work, both in the scientific and in the literary parts of it. As none but those who have personally be- held the scenes, and witnessed the facts, can be competent to commu- nicate to others the impressions they make on the mind, or to describe them with fidelity, the author has judged it more consistent, and more conducive to correctness, to reject all assistance whatever ; and, although the language of this narrative might have been arranged.in smoother periods, and expressed with more fashionable elegance, the reader who looks for information more than amusement, will doubt- Aa PREFACE. lessly be better satisfied by a feeling of confidence that he is receiving his information in the traveller’s own words. Neither have the draw- ings been touched by any other hand : from these the plates have been immediately coloured, and may be considered as expressing with fide- lity the tints, as well as the outlines, of African scenery. In order to ensure greater correctness in the vignettes, the author has made all these drawings upon the blocks themselves; so that the impressions are the fac-similes of every line of the pencil, a style of outline having been adopted, as being best suited to engravings on wood. Those who can appreciate the art, will not fail to admire the care and abilities of the engraver. Of the map, little need be said in this place, as a sufficient explanation will be found at the end of the Itinerary. The General Index, together with a Zoological and Botanical Index, will be civen with the second volume. In the Dutch names, and in words belonging to the languages of the Hottentotsand other native tribes, the accented syllable has been generally marked by an acute accent, and the English transla- tion of them added in parentheses. In the body of the work, words have frequently been printed in Italic characters, with the view of pointing out the subject of the paragraph, and of supplying the place of marginal notes. The General Index will answer the pur- pose of a glossary for all the foreign words found in this volume, by referring to the given page for the interpretation. The orthography of these words has not been neglected ; and where it has been found uncertain or ill-established, the different modes in use in the colony, have been occasionally employed. With respect to those languages which have hitherto been merely oral, a system of orthography, suited to the genius or natural sounds of them, has been adopted, and will be explained hereafter. Where any of these have already been received into the Dutch or English languages, the spelling proper to these has frequently been employed; and precepts for their pronunciation given in various parts of this volume. re PREFACE. vii In the narrative, the strict form of a journal has been adhered to, as being that which best enables the reader and the author to travel, as it were, the journey. over again, and view, in their proper light, the facts in connection, and the impressions made by each event in succession. The object of this journal being to give a_ natural and faithful picture of passing scenes and transactions, many circumstances of less importance have been allowed their place in it ; just as, in a landscape or historical painting, even of the sublimest conception, the weeds of the foreground, or the stones of the pave- ment, however trifling in themselves, must be represented, in order to complete the whole, and convey the just resemblance of nature. In these pages modesty may read without fearing to meet with descriptions and allusions which might raise a blush upon her cheek. This is the more necessary to be stated in a preface, as books of travels, though professedly lying open to every class of readers, sometimes contain matter offensive to decency, and which renders them unfit for general perusal. Such indelicacies will never be found in these volumes. The author, during this expedition, which lasted four years, had no companion or assistant, nor other attendants than a few Hottentots, the number of whom never exceeded ten. Of the party which set out from Cape Town, he was the only one who returned to that place; the rest having quitted him, and been several times re- placed by others during the journey. In a course of four thousand five hundred miles, exclusive of numerous smaller excursions, regions never before trodden by European foot, were explored and examined. Besides that general information respecting these countries and their inhabitants which it was his principal object to obtain, and which are communicated by the following narrative, considerable collections in Natural History were made, and a multitude of objects hitherto unknown to science brought to England. Of these a few are occasionally mentioned, and distinguished, either by a reference to the * Geographical Catalogue,’ or by the letter B; and, not viil PREFACE. to interrupt the text, short descriptions of them are added in the notes. These descriptions, however, are not intended as specific characters, but are given merely as the more obvious or striking features, in order to convey to the zoologist or botanist some idea of the more remarkable objects. Neither was it thought requisite, in the present work at least, to adopt every innovation in nomenclature which, since the travels were commenced, these sciences have from time to time undergone. These collections consist of above sixty three thousand objects, inclusive of the duplicates, in every depart- ment of the science. Out of two hundred and eighty nine quadrupeds shot on the journey, a hundred and twenty skins, comprising eighty species, were preserved. The collection of birds contains two hundred and sixty-five different kinds. In addition to these results of the expedition, are about five hundred drawings, the subjects of which are landscapes, portraits, costume, zoology, botany, and a variety of other objects. The author’s views in travelling, were not confined to any par- ticular class of observation. As it was general knowledge which he sought, so he has endeavoured to extend his researches to whatever appeared likely to afford interesting information ; but in a country still in a state of nature, and where art has done so little, the works of the creation, ever delightful to all but those of a corrupt and depraved mind, necessarily present themselves the most frequently to notice. In the second volume, however, the investigation of man in an uncivilized state of society, will be found to offer to the contemplation of the philosopher, a picture not altogether unde- serving of attention, if the writer should be able by words to com- municate to others those feelings which he himself experienced, and those impressions which his abode among the natives of the interior of Africa, has made upon his own mind. Lownpbon, February, 1822. CONTENTS. PREFACE «- Cuapter I. Gaerne ie ae ar ar ie de ey of Good ieee II. Residence in Cape Town, and Rambles in the ee IIJ. A sketch of Cape ‘Town and the Colony... ieseeees oe IV. A ride through Hottentot-Holland to the Warn m- ie at ee eee V. Visit to Genadendal.. os a4 a AoE VI. Ride from Geoviendant to the hotspring in a 4 Vv aie, aati visit to Tulbagh... . Ride from Tulbagh to ae earl mr ee to 5 Selienoeeln abbaeeceeies . Residence at Cape Town, and preparations for the journey.........60,.. . Journey from Cape Town to Tulbagh.. ee . From Tulbagh, through Hex-river Kloof to ails ene Peat XI. Journey over ‘the Karro.. siegninde’ XII. Journey through the Rosen to ihe Borden of ate Colones XIII. Journey from the borders of the Cape Colony, through the country a the Bushmen, to the river Gariep.........+ ievaeewere XIV. Journey in the country of the Koras, ath the cee to sills Asbetos Mountains. — Stay at the Kloof village.— And arrival at Klaarwater... XV. Residence and transactions at Klaarwater; with some account of the Setulementaand 1S IMWabitants..scccksescesess cos osssesessccccscssaasinanaes _ XVI. Excursion from Klaarwater to the confluence of the Nu-gariep, and thence to the Ky-gariep ......ssesssseeseeeees XVII. Occurrences on the banks of ie eae iep.. XVIII. Return from the Ky-gariep to Klaarwater.. Sieesiesee XIX. Residence and transactions at Klaarwater, dill ihe end of they Veal soccer oss XX. Residence and transactions at Klaarwater, and preparations for resuming the journey into the Interior... Bsaiestictesouresasensesecasctectssswoss XXI. Arrangements for a journey bee into the Colony. — Sond visit to the village at the Asbestos Mountains. — And preparations for departure. The Itinerary, and Register of the Weather........ssssseessecsressseseecorsnsessvescessnseee 5 -Remarks on the map, and geographical observations.....scsssssesesssseeeseeeeccsccoere res a oy we OO HO: The Map........scscoccsccrccsccsscvesssonesscasccsenecesssecosess cosines ss PLATES. . A view of Cape Town, Table Bay, and Tygerberg... . Portrait of Speelman, a Se ey es Seo Kignosbbodsugagaseo0 Bushmen eo PYEVERELUPEM TEEPE eee eer err err erre rrr ry err ey . The Rock a ete in the country of the Bushmen.. . Crossing the Berg river. I ci ccials claleie tise clase wa cemeraicet eens alate Facing Page 2 ~ Scene on the river Gariep..ccsrccccccsccsssseccecsccssecsvcscescsevcesosescccesceces . A Hottentot Kraal on the eae of the Gane ® aiepie . A view of Klaarwater, looking towards the nor ee ee . Portrait of a Bushman, playing on the Gorah........s0seccerces ses tessocccecs Portrait ofa WMoracticrie econ cae ot cocoa steele cue culees siaeieccne sGenmene cet ereee . Caravan of waggons arscnniea at Zak river on re borders of ae country of the eeeveegococes 167 178 - 282 - 294 eo 316 eee 325 «. 360 +. 459 secccccecesces 490 582 The description of Plate 1. at page 25. having been made from the original drawing, does not in a few places correspond with the plate; because, through the haste of the engraver, the minuter details in the outline of the distant mountains, and some other particulars of less moment, have not been sufficiently attended to. does not affect the general correctness of the view. VIGNETTES. . Distant view of the Cape of Good Hope..eeeecscceeceecenene The Jutty, or landing place, at Cape Town........sssseer The Castle-gate, at Cape Town......seccscscconesssescneees . The: Mountain-butterfly..:20....0+0sse0'sescovesscescoreoveceere » The Kukumakranki 625006 icccs so cscscocscosenccsscsevesscveces « The Silver-tree ...0:0 00s cssececcevcvccecccccesacsecccsvnssoncoeiees . View of a part of Cape Horan. waewecty seaedetdess ticoe secisinstesle A. Boor’s wagon and OXEN sesssssseeseceecsccesscsonscoeceeons . The Bath-house at Zwarteberg.....ccsccseeseserceveeeveveee . Tower-of-Babel Mountain ......cccccesseccscvcvccvsvccscosece ) The: | Rhinocerossbusht! - 1c. /sa0/siac'einsices'nlasiecslonelseisrelesaciesioce ~The church: at-%Genadendal.......csecccesccccocscccoeceenes . Huts of the Hottentots at Genadendal.....ccccscecsseceees . The village of Tulbagh......scccssccsseersccrenseenseeeneees Described at Page 2 10 bile 45 55 17. 7A 76 85. 100 101. 106 112 128 73. 54. 61. Die 102. 176. But this, however, . Geometrical drawing of the waggom.......ssssscsccceceees MC TOSSING CherlCArlOsastesppecessesccssersseseaesavetacaseascbncs . A Bushman chief and his companion on ox-back......++ . A Boor’s house in the Roggeveld-Karro, with sheep - 238 ° A tanning-vat RO ODD MOG COO OOOO OROO 000 OO COUTOU OCOUU0 O0OR00.000000 . Rocks at Leeuwenkuil........eseecceces WileieGelalrwodioeeey . Hut of the Hottentot chief at iabateanee TL daleansossurdeniecs Se ELeMATING LOL MUEPATIULC secicsuicces steasicascesisssiees voeueeeesie de VIGNETTES. Pathe: Drostdaa ate Uulbaghy.<00s vssion- ons sacesndevetenerens sie . The church at Stellenbosch .......ccccccccccecceccccssessees Y Whe: Cape MisseltOessssssvescosccacsscescccsorsceatescoovs cee to 1b COR OCH SOHO OH EEO HOR OHH HHT SHO SET OET HOH OEE SOO EEE LED OED OEE SOO : Scene by fire-light, on the journey; a station for the a Eaccin@uwOOdeZaNd) KIGOE sc. cceccscescos gases: covssesescoesens 2 Phe: Karro-thorn, or Cape Acacia..c...occsvesessinasesserses SOUT) OUP) COU PASHUTE ro 'saahoessscoesseseesece nonesonetices ss . Hottentots sitting round their fire......sccccrsescssccececoes 30. The yellow-fish.......sssssecssscscsvsscercoscceccscsecesssecoeens . A view of the mountains of the Karreebergen..........+ . A Bushwoman and her child.. cepanenieg neasieasiseniacs . View at the Kloof village in he ae: Weare svocks+ am the Asbestos: Motntains..%.s0i00s000.s0000008 cneees Mane mcmurcly at I laarwater ... vcsccsess sce oes sce nseevevecsosomh . Horns of the Koodoo.. Ganretecleeersiacrs we cactlonagecececss . Station on the banks of the Noeeaien: and making presents to a party of Bushmen.............ssccsesscerees a he: Kori,’a new species of bustard....cccisscsesseseseeiens . Head of the Hippopotamus or River-horse..........0.00+8 Ppl OLCEMLOLUUITERSIIS: vcerenselresiesccssnsn ve¥.seslasicies see scuiseeenese Pe Ain Ge llatain Ca sseisisoiscsiesivticisigiveeiess oesiesajsceewecseeseeueioras . Travelling over a cae SpecnGin in ant- hills b sisuinie closet . A piece of an ant-hill, with one of the insects.........s0000 . The Gordh, a Hottentot musical instrument..........ce00e Fe sles OOKOO! [plalatteatiasecscstcsiesicr vcrsevesescsstoncce coments Memes Crap ple=plaittivecdedss siscecsds oe sesjssenteloressleossessesaee pe lMie Party? aslee pasos aie ss ts sednesssscesseracescscersnecedtese Page 135 136 147 - 148 . Section of the waggon, with various articles Raga: sh 7/il 172 188 - 189 me COMIC OY Lites OlaITOM. a caceeroas sess soives sasimeneseiseimeeracorens . Arrival at the Karro Pass........006- Seeadevidenee Weeaeaciscecns 203 209 210 228 252 253 284 285 322, 323 349 550 380 381 402 403 406 445 446 449 475 476 - 505 506 528 529 DoS Described at Page 128. 145 143 149 151 129. 173. 180. Tits 195. 202 207 210 227 237 243 270 280 299 291. 328. 333 350. 337. 389. 393 413 406 425 299. 448 458 479 491. 351. 523 536 DDS 181. 429, 292 334 355 338 390 342. 448 492 865. 479. > d ‘ . = . y . - zl . re _ f . ‘ 4 c . . if ’ + - a . 4 2 “ = t ts “ ‘ . : . ue ‘ es ’ \ 7 7 : © ‘ 7 d ‘ rid r, E : 2 : Fe . / ‘ : - : . a a x . P . ‘ e * : . = 1 Ze by - 5 : j E F = ae f \ = 7 oe = 7 : fz - “ % a ' ‘ é ‘ i pe ome < 1 2 ‘ ¥ ’ a r * . . 7) : : °. Fy 7 + s . . . Ve = 5 , 2 , : ; : ‘ ‘ . ne ; : . ' . x P ‘ . ; . n t f 3 riot r o 1 : cs : E e . ‘ 1 $ i : ¥ , ’ ‘ » : F = = * . = . : ; ‘ bs “al : i 7 tt - : . ’ + 7 : = . ‘ 5 : > A \ ‘ 7 2 CHAPTER I. APPROACH TO, AND ARRIVAL AT, THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. Az five in the afternoon, (13th November, 1810,) the sailors on deck, who had for some-time been anxiously looking out, called to us that land was in sight. At this pleasing intelligence we hastened up from the cabin, and although nothing could be seen but a small cloud, which seemed fixed on the horizon, and was at first not very easily to be distinguished, the captain, who was well acquainted with the singular appearance of the cloud which rests on the Table Mountain during a south-east gale, declared that the land which we had now before us was that of the Cape of Good Hope. It appeared gradually and slowly rising out of the ocean, while our sails, well filled with the gentle gale, bore the gliding vessel over the blue waters of the deep, and forced its foamy prow resistless through the yielding waves. Every other thought was banished, and our whole attention was now turned towards the distant cloud. The tedious and protracted length of our voyage was felt no longer ; every coun- tenance became enlivened, and each one with new alacrity assisted in the preparations for bringing the ship into ‘port. The land was distant nearly one hundred miles in the direction of north-east ; but a pleasant south-easterly breeze was carrying us on rapidly towards it, B P) FIRST VIEW OF 14 Nov. and every mile we advanced added some agreeable idea to the ani- mating anticipation of my feelings on first setting foot on the land of Africa. [now perceived that all the pictures which imagination previ- ously forms of acountry, make but faint impressions in comparison with those presented by the country itself: we indulge the more freely in all the speculations of curiosity, whenever the prospect of its immediate gratification banishes the fear of disappointment: we feel an increased desire to ascertain whether the notions we had previously acquired, correspond with things themselves; and our fancy redoubles its activity in pourtraying a thousand delightful objects, ready to pour fresh knowledge into our mind. Anticipated ideas continued to interest and amuse me during the remainder of the day; and the dawn of daylight the next morning found us on deck, ready to catch the appearance of the long-wished-for land. Nothing, however, was to be seen: the haziness of the atmosphere was not dissipated till the sun had risen high ; when the land again came in view*, presenting * See the Vignette. —This represents a first view of the land of the Cape of Good Hope, as seen from a distance of about thirty miles in the direction of E.N.E. Cape Point, or the Cape of Good Hope proper, was at this time covered with a thick haze, and therefore could not be distinguished; but on comparing the vignette with the map, it will be easily seen how much farther to the right the land should extend. To the left the Lion’s Head, appearing as a conical mountain, terminates the view ; the mountains of Blauwberg, &c. not having yet risen above the horizon. The Lion Mountain is seen foreshortened, and therefore the Rump appears only as a point of less elevation, and close under the Head on the left. The large flat mountain next following is the celebrated Table Mountain, presenting its steep rocky western side to the ocean. Cape Town stands on its northern side, and no part of it can be seen till the voyager has sailed round to the other side of the Lion Mountain. Over the low gorge, or kloof,; between these two mountains, passes the road from the Town to Camp’s Bay. ‘Through the next kloof or opening there is a horse-road from Camp’s Bay to Hout Bay, which lies behind the mountain following next to Table Mountain; and the entrance to this bay is round the small conical rocky point (here shaded more darkly) sometimes called the Hanglip, from its resemblance to a mountain similarly situated at the south-eastern point of False Bay. The next large mountain, less shaded than the others, is called the Steenbergen (Stony Mountains); behind which, and constituting a part of it, is Mucsenberg (Mouse Mountain), and the north-western corner of False Bay. ‘The land which next follows is not in reality so low as it here appears to be, but is a continuation of the same range of mountains, receding below the horizon of the sea. The abrupt termination of the range is where the haze concealed the remaining part of it. ps ; 1810. THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 3 from afar a range of faint blue mountains, at the northern end of which Table Mountain and Lion’s Head were very easy to be recognized by the peculiarity of their form. The weather became fine ; and the wind, which had continued to blow from the south-east, increased to a gale; so that by noon we were within two leagues of the shore: and soon after getting under the lee of the mountains, the vessel was nearly becalmed, scarcely making any way through the water. This slow progress gave me a favourable opportunity for making several drawings, and for observing the remarkable cloud which covered the top of Table Mountain, resting upon it with all the appearance of a ponderous substance: every other part of the sky was perfectly clear, and the wind, which was evidently blowing there with great violence, seemed unable to dislodge it from its situa- tion.’ Its thin misty skirts no sooner rolled over the edge of the pre- cipice, than they were rarefied into air and vanished. The western part of Table Mountain, with its rocky precipitous side cleft in deep ravines, rose majestically out of the ocean. Between this and the mountains, which form the western side of Hout Bay (Wood Bay), stands the False Lion’s Head, a mountain of subordinate elevation. The true Lion’s Head is much higher than the False, but considerably lower than Table Mountain. As we advanced nearer along the shore, the mountains displayed an imposing grandeur, which mocked the littleness of human works: buildings were but white specks; too small to add a feature to the scene; too insignificant either to adorn or to disturb the magnificence of nature. We had left behind us the deep blue waters of the ocean, and, sheltered by the land, were sailing on the calm surface of waters of a greener tinge, from which the seals sometimes raised their dripping heads to view us as we passed. BafHing winds frequently impeded our progress, and put the sailors’ patience to trial; but the novelty of the scene, and the interesting objects before me, absorbed the whole of my attention. Eager to become acquainted with the details of what I saw, I long occupied myself in scrutinizing, with a telescope, every rock and ravine; though as yet we were too far off to allow my impatient curiosity to be gratified. BQ 4 APPROACH TO 14—16 Nov. We continued till evening frequently tacking and working our way slowly towards Table Bay, where we hoped to cast anchor in the course of the night. The moon had just risen, glittering on the tops of the waves, and, casting its light on the projecting crags of the mountains, spread a beauty and solemnity over the scene, that heightened the effect of every occurrence. At this time we were abreast of Green Point at the entrance of the bay. The moment we had passed beyond the shelter of the Lion Mountain, a furious wind suddenly and unexpectedly assailed the vessel ; pouring out of the clouds, as it seemed, its boisterous fury upon us. A poetic imagination would certainly have fancied that the skins given by Giolus to Ulysses, had been carried to the top of Table Mountain, and there all cut open at once. The vessel was rapidly driving out to sea again: in the utmost hurry the sailors flew up the rigging, and took in all sail possible. We strove to beat into the bay, but a whole hour’s struggling against the storm proved all in vain; and the fore top-sail being split, we were compelled to wear the ship, and retreat to the shelter of the Lion Mountain to bend another sail. Towards morning we made a second attempt, but were repulsed . by a wind more furious than before ; so that we considered ourselves fortunate in being able to regain our former shelter. Here we con- tinued the whole of this and the following day, standing off and on within the lee of the Lion Mountain, experiencing alternate calms and gales ; at one moment the ship rolling in a dead calm, and at the next, if we happened to exceed the limit of our shelter, running with the gunnel under water, through waves whose tops were blown away in spray by the fury of the south-easter: yet the weather appeared fine and the sky cloudless. We often approached to within half a mile of the shore, where with a glass we could discern people at work, and dust driven up in clouds. Some spots appeared of a beautiful purple and others of a yellow colour, occasioned most probably by the abundance of flowers. So tantalizing a view, after a protracted and tedious voyage, would have induced me to attempt a landing almost at any rate; but the 1810. THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 4 surf, which lined the whole coast with a fringe of white, plainly showed the danger and even impracticability of the attempt at such a time; I therefore contented myself with making a drawing of the view ; which in this bearing, more than in any other, presents a resemblance to a lion quite sufficient to justify the name the mountain has received; and is probably that in which the likeness was _ first observed. To a ship keeping the Lion’s Head and the middle of the northern side of Table Mountain in a line, and being at the distance of about two miles, the mountain exhibits the form of a lion cou- chant, whose fore-paws are extended forward, and form the southern point of Camp’s Bay, while the tail is very well ca by the flat land of Green Point. The first discoverers of a land presenting such grand features of bold and mountainous outline, must have felt that the occurrence itself was full of interest; but when at the same time they knew that they had thus passed the barrier which had stopped all former navigators, at least of the later ages, and had now opened a way to the Eastern world, the doubling of this celebrated promontory must have been an event which might justify the highest exultation. As I looked upon the mountains and the shore, my imagination carried me back to that period when its peaceable inhabitants, the simple Hottentots, roamed freely over the country, enjoying the liberty of nature, nor dreaming that a day could ever arrive when they must resign all to some unknown race of men, coming upon them from the ocean, an element which no tradition had ever told them could be travelled on by man. Their arms and their watchings had no object besides their inland enemies ; the turbulent surface of the “‘ Great Water” and the noisy shore, seemed the only side whence no danger was to be dreaded. But it is not at the extremity of Africa only, where treachery has surprised men from a quarter where it was least expected. I was wishing, for the honor of Europeans, men enjoying the blessings of civilization, and illumined by the superior light of arts and science, that I could have persuaded myself that these natives had been rendered happier by their communication with them: I longed to be amongst them, that I might ascertain so 6 STORM AT SEA. 16—17 Nov. important a fact by my own experience; and my fondest wish was, to be able to bear witness to the truth of it. The idea, that the land was now before me where I was to become acquainted with my fellow-creatures living in primeval simplicity, caused a pleasing glow in my mind, and I imagined myself already in the midst of their tribes, delighted at the novelty of the scene, and acquiring new views of human nature. Not aware that the ardor of a youthful imagination concealed every difficulty, I could see none which could disappoint my hope of traversing in any direction the unknown regions of Southern Africa ; and believed that once safely landed, every obstacle to my progress would vanish. My impatience, therefore, at remaining on the sea so long after coming in sight of the harbour, began to render my confinement to the ship exceedingly irksome. The whole crew, being but few in number, were obliged to remain constantly on the watch; and as the wind was continually changing, they were nearly exhausted by fatigue. Thus passed the day ; and the evening came on without any symptoms of abatement in the storm. At last, about eight o’clock, we suddenly found our- selves within its influence, having unfortunately drifted beyond the shelter of the mountain. The wind roared in the rigging, and drove us before it like a feather on the surface of a lake; it was impossible to regain our shelter, and in this extremity we bore up for Robben island, hoping under the lee of it to find some protection. But this we could not accomplish, and the fury of the storm sweeping us past it with awful rapidity, hurried us once more out of sight of land. With great difficulty the sails were furled, and under a close reefed fore-topsail we scudded before - the tempest. The vessel rolled in a dreadful manner; every minute we expected to hear the crash of masts falling overboard; the men were thrown from side to side, unable to keep on their feet ; and worn out with labor and fatigue, they looked at each other in a desponding manner, which betrayed their fears, and showed the reality of our danger. The storm raged still more furiously, and the peril of our situation increased every moment. It was no 1810. STORM AT SEA. ” longer safe to scud; huge waves pursuing as if bent on our destruction, threatened every instant to break over us, and at once overwhelm our bark in the fathomless deep. The captain, whose judgment was always cool, saw no alternative between certain destruction and what was, in our circumstances, a very perilous experiment ; but we happily succeeded in heaving the ship to, under storm-mainsail, fore stay-sail, and close-reefed try-sail. There was still much reason for uneasiness, lest she should not keep her head to the sea; and every one continued watching the danger with the greatest anxiety, dreading that some unforeseen accident would before morning bury us all in the cold grave of the ocean. The vessel became so leaky that it was necessary to keep both pumps going day and night; and it was at one time uncertain whether they gained on the water or not. The night passed without sleep or rest, and the welcome morning light served in some measure to diminish the gloomy appearance of the scene: the sunshine and cloudless sky exhibited the fallacious semblance of fair weather, but the angry wind still howled in the rigging, and the waves still lifted up their foaming heads around. The hatches carefully closed, and the deadlights bolted in, the cabin dark as a dungeon, and the deck deluged with the waves, were appearances well suited to the solemnity of a storm. Heavy seas frequently rolled on board with overwhelming force, throwing every thing into confusion, breaking the spars and casks from their lashings, and washing away the loose utensils into the sea. The seamen, drenched with water, seemed to go aloft with reluctance, expecting hardly to escape being blown overboard. The captain, whose careful eye was unceasingly surveying every part of his ship, discovered that the try-sail, which was an old one, showed in several parts the first symptoms of splitting, some of the threads having already given way. Knowing that on this sail depended the maintenance of the balance of wind necessary for keeping the vessel’s head either from falling off or broaching to, he began, with evident melancholy, to express to me his fears. At such a time as this, and indeed on every occasion, when the safety or right management of the ship is in question, a « 8 STORM AT SEA. 17—26 Nov. passenger (and here I was the only one) will naturally feel as anxious and watchful as those to whom that safety is entrusted. I saw that our fate depended on the sail, and we knew that to replace it by another was impracticable at this time. After devising various plans, I proposed that another sail should be hoisted under the lee of it, so that in the event of its giving way, the pressure of the wind would then be sustained by the lee sail. The suggestion was instantly approved, and no time was lost in carrying it into execution. After this we felt as if the crisis of our danger were past, and looked with some hope for a favourable termination to the tempest. Drifting at the mercy of the elements, we were unable to estimate our lee-way, or to calculate with any certainty what part of the ocean we were in. Thus passed the whole of the day. In the night the violence of the wind began to abate a little, and in the course of the forenoon of the following day (18th) it became sufficiently moderate to allow of our making sail again. Every one resumed a cheerful countenance, and congratulated each other on having thus happily weathered so tre- mendous astorm. Our little vessel was in gratitude praised for many good qualities ; and the captain, who had been very unfortunate in his ships, several having been wrecked or cast ashore, some foundered at sea, and one consumed by fire, now confessed that at one time his hopes of ever reaching land had deserted him. Every one was busily employed in repairing damages, and in rectifying the confusion into .which the deck had been thrown. The unusual and unexpected length of the voyage reduced us to a short allowance of water, and our stock of fresh provisions had been exhausted three days before. We shaped our course once more towards the Cape, and continued sailing, with variable winds and unsettled weather, for four days ; but on the 23d and 24th the weather became fair and pleasant, and the wind blew right in our favour. | On the 25th, in the morning, at a little before eight o’clock, having a light westerly wind, we again made the Cape land; and re- joiced to find that the cloud had left the mountain. Having paid so 1810. FIRST VIEW OF CAPE TOWN. 9 dearly for our experience and knowledge of the nature of that cloud, it was with no small satisfaction that we beheld Table Mountain in its true outline, presenting its broad, flat, and horizontal summit, unobscured by mist or haze. Although we approached the land but slowly, we were confident in not meeting at present, on entering Table Bay, so ungracious a reception as we had experienced the first time. The next day, (26th,) by three in the afternoon, we were close in with the Lion’s Head; but being nearly becalmed, we made but slow progress round Green Point, which, as we sailed along, was very close on our right hand. Various buildings began to make their appearance; the Jutty and Castle came in sight; and, as soon as we had passed the Chavonne and Amsterdam batteries, Cape Town itself, backed by the immense precipice of Table Mountain, rising like an enormous wall, opened full to view. At first no object attracted my notice till I had sufficiently admired the majestic amphitheatre of mountains in which the town reposes. Every thing wore, to my eye at least, a pleasing aspect: it was the charm of novelty which cast an agreeable hue over the whole scene; even the smallest object interested me, and whatever I beheld seemed to present itself as a subject for my future investigation. On the first arriving at a foreign country, there is a sensation so delightful and so peculiar to an inquisitive mind, that language can convey but little of it to a reader. ‘To many these sentiments must remain unin- telligible; to those, at least, who see no other difference in the countries they may have had the opportunities of visiting, than that which arises from the language or dress of the inhabitants, or from the heat or cold of the climate. The strange features which an attentive observer instantly discovers, in animated as well as in in- animated nature; the various shades of human character and man- ners; the complexion of the mountains and valleys; the ground we tread upon; all open to us gratuitously an inexhaustible source of knowledge and of ideas, and an infinite variety of amusement of the most rational kind. To that cold mind which can look at Nature with insensibility, nearly the whole of the creation exists in vain, c 10 THE LANDING. 26 Nov. 1810. and that heart can be but faintly warmed with love for the Creator, which is ignorant of the stupendous wisdom and countless multitude of his works; works which seem formed expressly to conduce in every way to our happiness, and which fill the world we inhabit with beauty, inviting the mind to study their importance and admire their perfection. At length the anchor was cast ; and tlie voyage ended. It was six o’clock before. the boat was ready to leave the ship ; when Captain Waldo, whose attentions had contributed to render my situation during the passage, as comfortable as circumstances would permit, accompanied me for the purpose of being my guide, as he was well acquainted with the place. In ten minutes we reached the shore, and my foot stepped, for the first time, on the land of Africa. The Vignette represents a part of the Jutty, the usual and only safe landing-place at Cape Town. It is also the only wharf, and, therefore, at all times a very busy spot. Some interest may be felt in this little representation, when the reader recals to mind the many celebrated or well-known characters who have passed along this same platform, and here first set their foot on the African shore. Eminent navigators and men of science of all nations; crowds of European passengers to or from India and the eastern colonies; all, not less than the weather-beaten sailor or the invalid, have leaped from their boat on to this wooden structure with a pleasure which a long and irksome voyage, and the view of a fine town, have equally contributed to heighten: some looking forward to the refresh- ments and to the amusements which the place is to afford, and others to the acquirement of knowledge, and the investigation of Nature under new forms. ; Lt os a door 4 i rm yy PRT AC = CHAPTER II. RESIDENCE IN CAPE TOWN, AND RAMBLES IN THE VICINITY. I wap brought with me letters of introduction to the Governor, to the Colonial Secretary, and to several English families; and had, above four years and a half before, been so fortunate as to become Explanation of the Vignette, representing a part of the Castle, viewed from the west, or on the side towards the town. This subject has been selected chiefly for the purpose of showing the principal outlet from Cape Town. It is through this Gateway that most of the waggons from the distant districts of the colony pass and repass. The road turns round under the bastion on the left, on the other side of which it leads through the outer gate; and a little farther on, through the lines, it conducts either to Rondebosch and Si- mon’s Town, or to Salt River, and the rest of the colony. The only other outlet is to the right, by a road without the Castle. The whole fortification is surrounded by a moat: this is not shown in the engraving, because it is seen only on a near approach. A number of tents are pitched by the road-side, for the daily sale of fruit and vegetables, and are kept by free Malays and slaves. About three inches farther on the left of this drawing, and on this side of the castle, commences the jutty, part of which is given in the preceding vignette ; consequently, the objects here delineated are some of the first which meet the eye of a stranger on his landing. This subject, and that of We Jutty, were drawn in the year 1815, and are taken out of a panoramic series of drawings, representing Cape Town and the whole of the sur- rounding scenery, as viewed from an elevated station at the beginning of Strand Street. Cr 12 INTRODUCTIONS. 26—2Z8 Nov. personally known to General Jansens the last Dutch governor, and to several officers of his suite, among whom was Dr. Lichtenstein, the present professor of natural history in the university at Ber- lin. On being informed of my intention of visiting the colony, they voluntarily offered letters and friendly recommendations to many Dutch and German families residing there. Among these, the Reverend Frederick Hesse, the Lutheran minis- ter, was more particularly mentioned to me; and a correspondence having from that time continued to subsist between us, I now decided on repairing to his house; having first secured a lodging at the “ English Hotel.” The reception which I met with, was such as to prepossess me with a favourable opinion of the place and of its in- habitants. He would not allow that I should take up my abode elsewhere than at his house during my stay in Cape Town; and the friendly kindness of his manners at last persuaded me to accept his hospitality. | The lateness of the evening did but just permit me to present another letter of introduction, and to pay a visit to an old acquaint- ance: but as I walked along the streets, the remaining twilight was still sufficient both to excite and to satisfy much of my curiosity ; and I was particularly struck with the elegant style of architecture, regularity, and cleanness of the town. Thus passed my first African day. Gratified by every thing I had met with, when I retired to rest, a train of pleasing reflections and anticipations long kept me from sleep. | 27th. The next morning I presented my letters to the Governor the Earl of Caledon, who expressed with much politeness his inclin- ation and readiness to forward my views. A letter of introduction to the Deputy Colonial Secretary, Major (now Colonel) Bird, was the means of my obtaining afterwards much polite attention from that gentleman. He was then filling the office of the Colonial Secretary Mr. Alexander, to whom I was already per- sonally known, but who was absent on a mission to England. To the friendship of Mr. Alexander, and a voluntary offer of several letters 1810. CAPE DIALECT. 13 of introduction, I feel a pleasure in ascribing some of the advantages which I enjoyed. 28th. This, and the greater part of the two following days, were occupied in delivering my letters to such gentlemen as were living in Cape Town; in introductions to others; in receiving the friendly visits of several who now renewed a former acquaintance ; in getting my baggage ashore ; and in executing several little com- missions with which I had been charged. I had at this time decided on nothing more than the general outlines of the plan for my future travels, agreeable to an intention of exploring the less frequented or unknown parts of Africa, for the purpose of becoming acquainted with its inhabitants, and of increasing my own knowledge by the addition of whatever facts I might have the opportunity of observing. Being accountable to no one for the result of my visit to this country, I felt the more at ease to decide on any arrangement best suited to my views; and determined on de- laying my intended journey, until I should have collected some information respecting the country, and acquired some experience and knowledge of its customs and peculiarities. Besides which, a knowledge and proper pronunciation of the Dutch language, according to the Cape dialect, and even according to the corrupt dialect of the Hottentots, was not among the least im- portant preparations for a journey of research in this part of Africa. For I am convinced that many incorrect and absurd things, which have been written about this Colony, would never have been said, had the writers been sufficiently acquainted with the language to converse with every class of its inhabitants. To be qualified for judging of the character of these inhabitants, it is not enough to have mingled with the better part of society; the Boors must be heard, the Hottentots must be heard, and the slaves must be heard. It is an observation which Hollanders have often made, that on their first arrival they could not readily comprehend the meaning of a Hottentot when he spoke in Dutch; while it was evident to them 14 A WALK ROUND THE 28—29 Nov. that the Hottentot had still more difficulty in understanding that language in its pure and grammatical state. The English language may be said to be quite unknown to the natives beyond the colonial boundary, and even within that line it is very little understood, excepting in Cape Town. * I resolved, therefore, to consider Cape Town as my place of abode for a few months, expecting that a part of this time would be well employed in making collections in Natural History ; thus saving myself the labour of bringing from a distance that which might here more easily be procured close at hand. Much of this time would be required for purchasing and collecting together a multitude of things necessary for such a journey, and for finding a number of Hottentots both qualified and willing to accompany me; for it was soon evident that such must be my only companions. 29th. As soon as my baggage was all safely landed, and I had got over the first bustle of introductions and visits, my curiosity to see the environs of the town could not longer be restrained; and Mr. Hesse proposed that we should this afternoon take a walk round the Lion Mountain. As we passed along the western skirts of the town, I continued to admire the cleanness and good appearance of the houses, and the magnificence of the surrounding mountains. Owing to its great height and undivided form, Table Mountain does not at first appear to be so distant from the town as it really is; but as we approach, it seems to recede gradually, disclosing to the observer its enormous mass, and apparently, at every step, towering higher and higher above his head. As soon as we had passed the houses, my attention, in spite of myself, was entirely engrossed by the rich and wonderful variety of plants that grew in every spot. In the bushes, weeds, and herbage by the road-side, at every step I recognised some well-known flower * And at present (1821) in the District of Albany. 1810. LION MOUNTAIN. 1s which I had seen nursed with great care in the green-houses of England. * A little farther on, we came to some plants of the great Ameri- can Aloe (Agave Americana), in flower. This noble plant is frequently used for forming hedges; and when they stand close together: their thorny leaves present an impregnable barrier to cattle, and even to men. Their leaves, six feet long, and flower-stems of thirty feet in height, present a truly gigantic specimen of the plants commonly termed “ flowers.” Of these and the surrounding scenery I afterwards made a drawing. The road, winding up an ascent, leads over a rocky gorge, which joins Lion’s Head to Table Mountain. This pass is defended by a block-house, and is called the Kloof, a word of frequent * Such as, — Leonotis Leonurus = * Cassine Maurocenia Erica cerinthoides Osteospermum spinescens Erica Petvverii Atraphaxis undulata Erica pubescens Kiggelaria Africana Athanasia crithmifolia Bubon gummiferum Athanasia parviflora, Watsonia alopecuroides Royena glabra Aristea cyanea Myrica quercifolia Echium fiuticosum Myrica serrata Polygala (Muraltia) Heisteria Cluytia pulchella Lightfootia subulata Cluytia Alaternoides Myrsine Africana Roella ciliaris Montinia acris Chironia baccifera Brunia nodiflora Chironia linoides Diosma villosa Passerina filiformis Psoralea aphylla Borbonia lanceolata Salvia Africana Celastrus pyracanthus + As I have endeavoured to preserve the proper orthography of all the Dutch names and words, excepting a very few, it is necessary to apprise such readers as may be unac- quainted with that language, that the word Aloof is pronounced as an Englishman would speak kilofe, or kloaf; the double o having no other sound than that of a long 0, or the Greek w. The dipthong oe sounds exactly the same as the English 00; thus, boek in Dutch has the same sound and meaning as book in English. Ou, in Dutch words, must be pronounced the same as ow in the English words now, how. G is always hard before e or z, as in gef, and give. Y is always a vowel, having the sound of a long z, and dyk in Dutch, and like in English, have the same sound and meaning. ‘The 7 is pronounced the same as y in English when a consonant; as jong and young: or may be considered as an é, forming a dipthong with the vowel which follows it. 16 THE LION’S HEAD. 29 Nov.—5 Dec. occurrence in this colony,. and signifying a pass, either over or between mountains, and often a deep ravine down the side of a mountain. Here there is a commanding view of the whole town, looking down the streets, which from this spot exhibit their regu- larity very remarkably. In the opposite direction is a view of Camps Bay (or, more pro- perly, Van Camps Bay) ; but instead of descending to it, we continued at a considerable elevation, along a road leading round the Lion’s Head, having all the way a fine view of the sea on our left, and on our right the rising slope of the mountain, covered with low scattered bushes. All that I had pictured to myself of the riches of the Cape in botany, was far surpassed by what I saw in this day’s walk. At every step a different plant appeared; and it is not an exaggerated description, if it should be compared to a botanic garden, neglected and left to grow to a state of nature; so great was the variety every where to be met with. After having been so long confined to a ship, without taking much exercise, I felt a little fatigued, and we rested at a pleasant cot- tage belonging to Mr. Beck. We were told that a few days ago a tiger (Felis Leopardus) had been shot near this place; but this was mentioned as an extraordinary occurrence, this animal very seldom venturing so near to Cape Town. Continuing our walk homewards, night overtook us, and put an end to further observ- ation; but by the light of the moon, enough could be discovered ‘to raise my curiosity, and excite a strong wish soon to return and examine the road by day-light. We did not reach home till nine o'clock, although the walk had not, perhaps, exceeded nine miles. Dec. 1st —4th. I every day became more sensible of my good fortune in having taken up my abode under the hospitable roof of Mr. Hesse. A congenial love of the works of nature, added to his learning and acquirements, rendered his society delightful, and ripened my acquaintance with him into a cordial and lasting friend- ship. He entered into my views in visiting Africa, and was anxious to assist me by advice, the result of long experience 1810. LEEUWENHOF. 17 at the Cape. Through him I became acquainted with many of the most respectable Dutch families, whose civilities contributed much to render Cape Town so agreeable to me. His friend Polemann, who like himself was a lover of natural history, caught the same warmth of friendship, and, by his knowledge of the colony and its customs, greatly facilitated my preparations. 5th. Having determined on taking a day’s ramble, with a view to exploring and collecting the productions of the fields and hills, I set out early in the morning, accompanied only by a slave-boy to carry my boxes, and bent my steps southerly through the town, passing the very pleasant villa of Leeuwenhof, the residence of Mr. Zorn, the Landdrost of the Cape District. Between this place and Table Mountain, I found an excellent field for my researches, the land being but little cultivated, and nearly in a state of nature. Here the vegetation differed in its character, from that which I had already observed on the sides of the Lion Mountain. As I walked along in the midst of the variety and profusion, I could not for some time divest myself of feelings of regret, that at every step my foot crushed some beautiful plant; for it is not easy, at one’s first walks in this country, to lay aside a kind of respect with which one is accustomed, in Europe, to treat the Proteas, the Ericas, the Pelargoniums, the Chironias, the Royenas, &c. It was now the dry season, and, therefore, not a favourable time for the botanist; most plants having ceased flowering, while many of the bulbous and herbaceous kind, had disappeared altogether. - Coming to a very pleasant spot by the side of a brook of clear water, which ran from Table Mountain, we sat down under some beautiful Si/ver-trees *, which shaded us from a very hot sun: here we opened our basket and took breakfast. After this we bent our course north-westerly, continuing to collect, as it were, with both hands. » The beautiful little Certhia (Nectarinia) chalybea, flying from flower to flower, was frequently seen; and, by its rich and gay * Leucadendrum argenteum, the Protea argentea of Linnzeus. See the Vignette at the end of this Chapter, where it is represented in the proportion of one-third of the natural size. D 18 _ BOTANICAL RAMBLE 5. Dec. plumage, and soft and delicate note, often drew my attention. To those who have never before seen any of this tribe of birds alive, their exotic colors and manners will be exceedingly interesting, The delicate Humming-birds (Trochili) of South America are, in Southern Africa, represented by the Nectarinie, here called by the Dutch colonists Sueker-vogels (sugar-birds), from having been ob- served, at least in the neighbourhood of Cape Town, to feed prin- cipally on the honey of the flowers of the Suzker-bosch (sugar-bush). * The loud and clear whistle of the canari-byter (canary-biter), a species of Laniust, is heard from afar, its notes being very remarkable. The weather, which was delightful, though hot, gave a smiling appearance to every object. The novelty of the scenery, the clearness of the atmosphere, and the profuse variety which Flora has strewn over this her favoured country, inspired me with the most agreeable sensations, and created new ardour and activity. By the time we had joined the road leading to Campsbay Kloof, all my boxes were completely filled with what I had already gathered, and having no where room for more, I was obliged to turn my steps homeward. To give some idea of the botanical riches of the country, Pneed only state that, in the short distance of one English mile, I collected in four hours and a half, one hundred and five distinct species of plants, even at this unfavourable season ; and I believe that more than double that number may, by searching at different times, be found on the same ground. Descriptions of all the objects of natural history, observed during these travels, are intended to be published in a separate work. A list of the plants, arranged according to the days on which they were collected, and the places where they were found, will be given in a small precursory work, under the title of Catalogus geographicus plantarum Africe australis extratropice, with notes of such particu- lars as may be thought interesting. From this catalogue I shall occasionally extract some names, hoping that even a bare enu- meration, exhibiting the geographical or local associations of plants, * Protea mellifera. + Turdus zeylonus of Linn. 1810. UNDER TABLE MOUNTAIN. 19 may not be unacceptable to the philosophical botanist. To the tra- veller, or the collector, who shall hereafter visit the places described in these travels, such lists may be useful in directing his attention to some objects that might otherwise escape his notice. * * Among the plants observed in this day’s walk, were, — Protea acaulis Cyperus lanceus Royena glabra Zygophyllum sessilifolium Polygala (Muraltia) Heisteria Scirpus Hottentottus Scabiosa pumila. Senecio longifolius Polygala (Muraltia) stipulacea Selago corymbosa Andropogon hirtum. Th. Cheilanthus Capensis Juncus capensis Anthistiria imberbis Lightfootia subulata Passerina filiformis Linum Africanum Cheilanthus pteroides Corymbium glabrum Aspalathus pungens Aristea spicata. Pers. EYydrocotyle Asiatica. Th. EMibiscus Ethiopicus Polygala Garcini. D.C. Briza Capensis Rottbollia dimidiata Morea bituminosa Erica imbricata Cynosurus uniole Atraphaxis undulata Borbonia crenata Borbonia lanceolata Myrica serrata Erica baccans Arnica Gerbera Chironia linoides Cliffortia ruscifolia Chrysocoma Comaurea Psoralea aphylla Myrica quercifolia Erica cerinthoides Besides, on 28th February, — Plantago hirsuta Polygala? spinosa, a. On 16th March, — Hemanthus coccineus Aristida Capensis Lobelia repens. Cliffortia trifoliata Rhus mucronatum Erica pubescens Lomaria Capensis Leysera squarrosa Salvia aurita ? Hallia imbricata Commelina Africana Chironia lychnoides ? Psoralea bracteata Lapeyrousia corymbosa Thesium strictum? Lobelia triquetra Lobelia coronopifolia Drosera Capensis Lobelia lutea Aster tenellus Euphorbia tuberosa Briza maxima Roella ciliata Serpicula repens Wachendorfia hirsuta Antirrhinum aphyllum. And, on 6th April, — Indigofera coriacea Cassytha filiformis Phylica stipularis, &e. 20 WILD FLOWERS. 7—8. Dec. 7th. On the following day we took a walk on the Lion’s Rump, and added forty-three more species to my Herbarium, although the earth was quite parched up by the sun. Many beautiful flowers, well known in the choicer collections in England, grow wild on this mountain, as the heath and the primrose on the commons and sunny banks of our own country. * In the afternoon I paid a visit of introduction to the Landdrost, from whom I experienced the same politeness which I had hitherto every where met with. In his garden I noticed a beautiful tree of Oleander, above ten feet high, decorated with a profusion of rosy flowers, and a large shrub of Cassia corymbosa, loaded with bunches of blossom. This house, delightfully placed in the midst of gardens and plantations, in the country behind the town, towards Table Mountain, commands an extensive view of the Bay and distant mountains, with a great part of the town. In the aviary, I saw the Touracoo}, called Loeri by the colonists; the Kaffers Finkt; the Canary § and the Paddy-bird. || 8th. At this time Cape Town afforded scarcely any public amuse- ments, the theatre being shut up for want of performers. An occa- * Such as — Phlomis (Leonitis) Leonurus Together with — Indigofera psoraloides Physalis tomentosa Gladiolus alopecuroides Ceanothus Africanus Pelargonium pinnatum Montinia acris Cyanella Capensis Alopecurus Capensis Pelargonium melananthum Cuscuta Africana Pelargonium lobatum Mohria thurifraga Ceropegia tenuzfolia Stachys Ethiopica Echium argenteum Pharnaceum incanum Aristea cyanea Gorteria personata Lessertia pulchra. Bot. Mag. Lepidium Capense Th. Knowltonia hirsuta Stobea atractyloides, Oxalis monophylla ; and many others. + Corythaix, Il. Cuculus Persa, Linn. { Enmberiza longicauda, et Loxia Caffra. Linn. Syst. Nat. ed. Gmel. § Fringilla Canaria. Linn. || Loxia oryzivora, Linn. 1810. A CONCERT. 21 sional concert was all that the place could offer ; and considering that there were but few professed musicians in the orchestra, the perform- ance might be called very good. The leader of the band, a Dane, whose powers on the violin were far above mediocrity, gave us a con- certo on that instrument, and, on the same evening, another on the harp. These he played without any assistance whatever from written notes; an example of musical memory not very common. The principal parts were filled by the amateurs, all of whom were of the Dutch part of the community ; the French-horns, bassoons, and clarionets being supplied from the regimental bands. Whenever mention is made of the Dutch in a more general sense, that part of the population of Cape Town, or of the colony, not English, is intended: since by far the greater proportion belongs to that nation; and all those who are born in the colony speak that language, and call themselves Africaanders, whether of Dutch, Ger- man, or French origin. It has been often remarked, whether justly or not, that the English have not that degree of taste and love for music, which several European nations regard as an ornament in their character : and it must be confessed, that, independently of professional persons, more real musicians are to be found among foreigners than among us. This, perhaps, should be attributed, not so much to our want of taste or feeling, as to our viewing music as an inferior kind of study. But we undervalue the importance of it; and do not seem sufficiently aware that it possesses the power of improving the best feelings of the heart, and of calming, and even annihilating, many of the more turbulent passions of men. But to produce this effect, mere execution avails but little, without that expression and speaking intelligence, which can be given to it only by the fingers of sensibility. The present concert was entirely instrumental; and the greater part of the audience were ladies. They were dressed extremely well, and quite in the English fashion; and it would be thought by many, that, for personal beauty, they ought not easily to yield 29 EVENING PARTIES. 8—11. Dec. the prize, even to our own fair countrywomen. As a mark of good sense in the company, it should be noticed, that here was none of that talking and chattering which are too often heard at concerts and music parties, and which serve only to distinguish the tasteless lounger from the lover of music, or, perhaps, sometimes, bad performance from good. It was over soon after nine o'clock, this being the hour at which most of the Dutch parties break up. At this time lanterns are seen moving about in all directions; and as the different parties pass each other, they greet their friends with a Wel te rusten (May you rest well). The regulations of the police prohibit all slaves and Hottentots from going about the town after nine o’clock, unless they carry a light. Should any, acting contrary to these orders, be met by the patrole, they are immediately appre- hended, and lodged in the jail until the next morning. ‘This is done with a view to the prevention of night robbery. 11th. It may naturally be supposed, that, in a country abound- ing with the most beautiful flowers and plants, the gardens of the inhabitants contain a great number of its choicest productions; but such is the perverse nature of man’s judgment, that whatever is distant, scarce, and difficult to be obtained, is always preferred to that which is within his reach, and is abundant, or may be procured with ease, however beautiful it may be. The common garden- flowers of Europe are here highly valued; and those who wished to show me their taste in horticulture, felt a pride in exhibiting carnations, hollyhocks, balsamines, tulips, and hyacinths ; while they viewed all the elegant productions of their hills as mere weeds. It is not uncommon in the gardens at Rondebosch, to see myrtle- hedges twenty feet high. A few exotics have, from time to time, been introduced*; and a small number of the more remark- * Such as— Melia Azedirach Nerium Oleander Gardenia florida Asclepias Curassavica LLischynomene Asclepias Syriaca 1810. EXOTIC PLANTS. 23 able indigenous plants are sometimes admitted to the honor of a place in their gardens *: but in none are any of the elegant tribe of heaths ever seen under cultivation; and it is a curious fact, that, among the colonists, these have not even a name, but, when spoken of, are indiscriminately called dosjes (bushes). Although the Dutch language has a word to express heath, yet, whenever I made use of it in conversation with the farmers, it seemed always to be unin- telligible. Objects of natural history, such as birds, insects, seeds, and bulbs, the produce of the colony, are collected for sale by an in- genious T’renchman of the name of Villet; but, besides these, I saw no where any thing of the kind, excepting at the house of Mr. Mack- Camellia Japonica Passiflora cerulea Canna Indica Phenix dactylifera Casuarina stricta Poinciana pulcherrima Clitoria Ternatea Polianthes tuberosa Coffea Arabica Rosa, several kinds Crinum erubescens ? Rosmarinus officinalis Daphne Indica Sambucus nigra Hibiscus mutabilis Tabernemontana Embothrium sericeum Tropeolum Nasturtium Eugenia Jambos Vinca rosea Heliotropium Peruvianum Bambusa arundinacea Hydrangea mutabilis Pinus Pinaster Mangifera Indica Pinus Pinea Mespilus Japonica Populus canescens Mirabilis jalapa Curcuma longa Myrtus communis Cassia multiglandulosa- Parkinsonia aculeata : Cassia corymbosa. This list is given merely from memory; and the addition of nearly as many more names might possibly render it complete. The last plant had been introduced by myself, about three years before, into Mr. Hesse’s garden, whence it had found its way into almost every other, and was now become a favourite shrub. * Such as — Calodendrum Capense Virgilia Capensis Gardenia Thunbergia Erythrina Caffira Gardenia Rothmannia Aloé plicatilis Strelitzia regine Solanum giganteuni, Amaryllis purpurea and a few others. Cyrtanthus obliquus 24 MENAGERIE AND MUSUEM. 12. Dec. rill, a surgeon in Cape Town, who very obligingly allowed me frequent opportunities of inspecting his collection, which, however, was not very numerous. 12th. Itook a walk in the Government garden, expecting to see in it many things worth attention; but I was disappointed, as it contained scarcely any thing except vegetables for the table. * In a walled enclosure, which was made by the Dutch, for containing wild animals, nothing is to be seen but a Gnut and some ostriches. Opposite to this enclosure is the Mena- gerie: its only tenants are, a lion and lioness, and a Bengal tiger. Perhaps no country in the world can boast of possessing so great a variety of wild quadrupeds as Southern Africa; and there- fore, with very little trouble or expense, a large and most interesting menagerie might be formed here. And if in the vicmity of Cape Town, a well-ordered botanic garden of sufficient extent, were estab- lished, for the purpose of receiving plants which might casually, or even expressly, be collected in the more distant parts of the colony, the sum of money required for maintaining it would be but trifling, in comparison with the advantages which science, and the public botanic gardens of England, would derive from it. A musewm appropriated to the reception of the rarities of the country, would form a proper appendage to the Government House, or might occupy one of the vacant squares of the garden. It might be the means of. making the colonists, and perhaps some others, who seldom have any opportunity of knowing much beyond the town and Green Point, better acquainted with the productions of the country ; and would, in the end, greatly assist in bringing to light its natural resources. a * There is, however, a fine plant of Strelitzia augusta ; an Aloé dichotoma ; some large trees of Erythrina Caffra ; a Phoenix dactylifera, about thirty feet high; Halleria lucida ; 4 Gleditsia triacantha ; Tabernemontana ; and Royena pubescens. Under some very large : trees of Pinus Pinea, which are the noblest ornament of the garden, I observed an S eatable root growing neglected, Arum colocasia, (the St. Helena yam); but it is never cultivated, nor have I any where in the colony seen the root made use of. + Aspecies of antelope. Os i | rk ll ll Mil vies f. f * | | 4 by i ¥ fel ee | | | | } | | . i | | | | | a : . a | = em | Oe yj rma Singh a 2? ee all < Cie. aa Sieh , See noi is re x ~~ TA Pagnired after the original Druning made by WS Burchell Ep 26 Decrm er 1830 (e of Ceen of Cope Loe Table Bay SAygerhiyy eS ir _ 1810. THE TOWN AND BAY. OB A long broad walk, or avenue, shaded by trees of the common English oak *, divides the garden longitudinally, and leads from the street called the Heeregragt | towards an uncultivated plain extend- ing to the foot of Table Mountain, and, in some parts, abounding in low scrubby trees of Kreupelboom{, much used for fire-wood. From this plain, there is a fine view of the town, Table Bay, and ships at anchor, beyond which, in the distance, are seen the moun- tains of Tygerberg, Blaauwberg, and the great range near Stellen- bosch. In this landscape, the pine trees in the garden present a remarkable feature: the castle, the barracks, and the church, are prominent objects; and, as the open ocean is intercepted from the sight by the Lion’s Rump, the bay itself, in a calm day, appears like an extensive lake. § * At the foot of which, in the month of April, the pretty little yellow flowers of Galaxia graminea spring up here, not unlike the crocuses in Europe. t+ Which may be interpreted as meaning the water-channel running by the governor’s house. £ Leucospermum conocarpum, (Protea Conocarpodendron of Linnzeus.) § Plate I. represents this view. On the left is seen the foot of the Lion Mountain, where the houses, which are all white, commence and extend as far as the castle. The roofs being flat and plastered with lime, give to the whole an unvaried whiteness. Be- yond the two ships under sail, entering the harbour, is Blaauwberg (Blue Mountain), which a long line of white sand-downs divides from the bay. The next mountain, behind the first ship at anchor, is Koeberg (Cow Mountain). Behind Blaauwberg the top of Dassenberg is visible; and next beyond Koeberg, on the right, is the mountain called Riebeck’s Kasteel (Riebeck’s Castle), which is followed by a very distant serrated range of mountains, whose summits are often whitened with snow; these are the mountains of Roodezand. 'The upper part of Paardeberg (Horse Mountain) just appears above the eastern end of Tygerberg, and is only distinguished from the Roodezand mountains by a nearer tint. In the direction of the last ships at anchor, the Tygerberg, (Tiger Moun- tain) commences, and thence extends to the right of the bay. The mountains of Drakenstein terminate the distant range. The two female figures are negroes returning home, with linen which they have been washing in the rivulet. Behind these figures, a row of oak-trees and a white wall enclose the garden and the official residence of the admiral commanding on the Cape station. The buildings above the sheep, are those belonging to a water-mill; and over these are seen the trees of the Government Garden, in a line extending as far as the large stone-pines (Pinus Pinea). The spire of the Lutheran Church may just be distinguished as a small speck upon the sea, a little to the right of the ships under sail; and, in this drawing, points out the north. Near the pine-trees, the Dutch Church, in which the English service is also performed, is conspicuous; and, close to it, the bell and flag-staff of the naval yard may be perceived. E %6 _GREAT HEAT. 296—927 Dec. The 26th, the day on which I made the drawing of this view, was hotter than usual: the thermometer of Fahrenheit was 102° (Reaum. 31.1—Centigrade 38.8), under the shade of my umbrella, while I was drawing; and even in the thick grove in the govern- ment garden, it remained at 92°. During the night, it did not fall below 77° (20 of Reaum.—25 of the Centigrade). The sky con- tinued all the day without a cloud; but there was an unusual haze or hot vapour in the air, yet not very dense, ‘as at night the stars were plainly visible. At this time not a breath of air disturbed the atmosphere. In the evening, observing in some persons marks of anxiety and uneasiness, I could not avoid enquiring the cause, and learnt that it was the apprehension of an earthquake being about to happen ; for the atmosphere and the stars had now exactly the same appearance which they were observed to have on the day previous to the earth- quake which took place just a year before. The heat was then equally great ; the wind of the day was also lulled to a dead calm at night ; and this evening, listening to the barking and howling of the dogs, some peculiarity in their tone was noticed to be the same as that which had been remarked at that time. On many other persons these circumstances made the same impression ; but on the following morning the weather resumed its usual temperature, and this sudden alarm was as suddenly forgotten. The long regular building, commencing near the last ship at anchor, is the Cavalry Barracks ; just above which, and of a dark colour, a part of the Jutty appears. In the foreground, are two slaves returning from the mountains with a load of firewood ; and two others are on before, near the sheep. The Castle follows next to the barracks, and is distinguished by a browner colour, and a flag. The house nearest, towards the fore- ground, will serve to show the style of architecture in which the generality of farm-houses near the Cape are built: it is thatched with a very durable species of rush, peculiar to this part of the world, and which the Dutch call “ Dak-riet” (Restio tectorum). Com- mencing at Cape Town, and stretching to the foot of Tygerberg, the “ Cape Downs” are easily distinguished by the pale colour which is given to this part of the zsthmus by its white sands. The waggon here represented is the usual vehicle for all purposes of business. The rising ground seen above the oxen, is a part of the foot of the Ducvels-berg, or Devil’s Mountain. Table Mountain is behind the spectator. The foreground was in- tended to give some idea of the manner in which the various flowers and low shrubs are scattered over this plain. — 1810. EARTHQUAKE. Qn It was, however, not without some foundation ; for we learned after- wards that a slight trembling of the earth was felt, at the same time, at Genadendal, a place at the distance of ninety miles eastward. In the preceding year, on the 4th of December, the inhabitants of Cape Town were thrown into the greatest consternation by repeated shocks of an earthquake, the first recorded since this land has been discovered. They fled from their houses, and pitched tents in the Boer Plain, in the Market Plain, on the Parade, in their gardens, and in various other places, to avoid being buried under the ruins of their houses, many of which were rent from top to bottom, although none fell in altogether. Some persons lived in that manner for more than a fortnight, impressed with the idea that the end of the world was come. Many attended divine service, in the churches and meeting-houses, for the first time in their lives; and all business was neglected for a few days. A great number of the urns which ornamented the parapets of the houses were shaken down ; leaving only the bar of iron to which they had been fixed. No material damage, however, was occasioned by this event; and all went off more quietly than was expected: but the alarm which it inspired continued for a long time; and, with many, its religious effects are said to have been permanent. It was therefore not to be wondered at, that the slightest symptom of its recurrence should be viewed with anxiety: more especially as the time of year coin- cided so nearly. 27th. Accompanied by my friend Hesse, I made a pedestrian excursion to Camps Bay, attended by a servant to carry my boxes and our dinner. We took the road round Green Point, an extensive sandy level, which forms the western point of Table Bay ; and which, in the month of September, becomes a complete flower-garden, by the astonishing variety of the tribe of Ensate, Ovxalides, and small liliaceous plants. On this level, the races are held twice in the year; at the end of April and the beginning of October. It is then a gay scene for the Cape fashionables; vehicles of every description, from the elegant - London-built carriage of the Governor, and the English curricle, E 2 98 RACES. 27 DEc. to the antiquated Dutch calash, and the light, but jolting paarde- wagen*, are seen driving about to enjoy the sport. Horsemen, without number, fly backwards and forwards to watch the fate of the day; and exhibit their prancing steeds of half Arab or English blood; although some, indeed, of their noble animals refuse to prance without the incitement of the curb or spur. Nor is it less amusing to watch the motley group on foot: Malays and Negroes mingled with whites, all crowding and elbowing, eager to get a sight of the momentous contest. But the patient Hottentot views it almost with apathy ; and, squatted on the ground, seems to prefer a pipe of tobacco to that which affords such exquisite gratifi- cation to his superiors. ‘Together with the art of making horses run fast, the science and mystery of betting has found its way to the farthest extremity of Africa; and on Green Point large sums are said to have been won and lost. Continuing our walk to a cottage romantically situated under the Lion’s Head, and belonging to Dr. Liesching, we rested a few minutes. About this spot grow Mahernia incisa, Phylica buaifolia, Solanum tomentosum, Eriocephalus racemosus, Huphorbia genistordes. At a subsequent visit. to this place, I followed a narrow path down to the sea shore, where, it being low water, I saw what might be called little groves of a very large kind of sea-weed, Fucus buc- cinalis, growing in the sea, under water. Its trunks, or stalks, were six feet high, hollow within, thin at bottom, but gradually swelling upwards ; having at their top very broad and long leaves floating in the water. The Dutch call this plant Zee bambos (sea-bamboo), and boys, after cutting its stalk to a convenient length when dry, some- times amuse themselves in blowing it as a horn or trumpet; but the sound, thus produced, is very hollow and dull. * Horse-waggon. ‘This is so called in contradistinction to the more common waggon drawn by oxen, which travels usually about three English miles in an hour; but the Paardewagen goes ata trot, estimated at six miles in an hour; although its rate may - vary from five to seven miles, according to the goodness of the road. The Osse- wagen, or Ox-waggon, will, from the same cause, travel from two to four miles. 1810. CAMPS BAY. 29 Leaving Dr. Leisching’s, we pursued a road cut along the side of the Lion Mountain, and soon after opened a view of Camps Bay and the western side of Table Mountain, which offered a pleasing subject forasketch. Here a glittering rock on the side of the road attracted my notice; it was a loose granite, containing abundance of mica. The great mass of rock, in these mountains, is principally sandstone of various degrees of compactness: when red, it is nearly friable ; but when white, very hard. Every intermediate kind is occasionally to be met with. Of the latter kind, are generally composed the sum- mits of these mountains, and, as I afterwards found, of the great southern range running from Hottentot Holland to Kromme-river bay. Of granite, the quantity is less than that of sandstone ; and of schistus, or slate, less than that of granite. On our road, we met no one, except a single black man ; all the rare productions of these mountains seemed to be our own. We descended to Camps Bay, where I soon gathered a rich harvest of interesting plants. This excursion produced* a hundred and nine * Among these, after an examination in the evening, were found, Cluytia pulchella Cissampelos Capensis Mesembryanthemum pomeridianum Rhus villosum Erica pubescens Buchnera Ethiopica Tetragonia fruticosa _ Rottboellia dimidiata Xeranthemum ( Elichrysum) sesamoides Stilbe pinastra Berckheya ciliaris Blairia ericoides Rhus tomentosum, Hebenstreitia cordata Malva Capensis Osteospermum polygaloides Echium glabrum Stachys AEthiopica Erica bruntides Heliophila linearis Lobelia coronopifolia Polygala (Muraltia) stipulacea Polycarpum tetraphyllum Stderoxylum inerme Thestum Colpoon (Fusanus compressus) Cliffortia strobilifera Periploca Africana Glycine bituminosa Gunnera Perpensum Psoralea bracteata Tanacetum multifiorum Antholyza nervosa Cassytha filiformis Evica baccans Erica ramentacea Rhus glaucum Gnaphalium foetidum Gnaphalium denudatum Penaa mucronata Erica cerinthoides Polygala bracteata Luclea racemos . 30 SWALLOWS. 27 Dec. 1810. additional species for my herbarium, besides seventeen more at subsequent visits. * In the bay there is only one house, which is government pro- perty, but it was in a very neglected and dilapidated state ; yet, sur- rounded by lofty mountains, its situation deserves a better edifice, and might well be the site of an elegant villa. A slave, who had the charge of it, permitted us to spread our dinner in one of the rooms. There we found the swallows + had long had possession ; for at the corners under the ceiling were several nests; and these birds had become so familiar, that our presence did not in the least interrupt their constantly flying out, and returning with food for their young. In most countries there are some few birds to which man has allowed the privilege of approaching him without mo- lestation. In England the “ Robin Redbreast” and “ Jenny Wren,” as they are familiarly called, are respected by every one; and at the Cape, the familiarity of this swallow and of the Cape wagtail t is greatly owing to the same cause. Our meal finished, we ascended the foot of the mountain, where a multitude of new flowers caused me to be always far behind ; while my companion continued frequently calling out to me that I must come on, or that otherwise we should be benighted. I hastened my Gethyllis ciliaris Bryonia Africana Leucospermum Conocarpam Phylica buxifolia Protea Lepidocarpon Hallia cordata Juncus ? serratus. 'Th. Solanum tomentosum Selago spuria Cyperus lanceus Dilatris corymbosa Mahernia pinnatifida. Diosma rubra * Salicornia fruticosa, 'Th. Cussonia thyrsiflora Statice scabra Fucus tomentosus Cyperus polystachyos Fucus corneus ? &c. Myrica cordifolia + Hirundo Capensis, Linn. Systema Nature, editio Gmelini.—L’ Hirondelle rousseline, Le Vaillant, Oiseaux d’ Afrique, planche 245., figure 1. { Motacilla capensis, Linn. Syst. Nat. Gmel.— La Lavandiere brune, Le Vaill. Ois. @Af. pl. 177. It is called Kwikstaart in the colony. 1 Jan. 1811. NEW-YEAR’S DAY. 31 pace with reluctance; but, as both the servant and myself were nearly overloaded with what I had already collected, and as the evening began to close in upon us, I was soon obliged to give up all further search. By following the ravine upwards, we fell into a path which conducted us to the Block-house *, whence we descended by the road over the kloof, and reached home by nine o'clock. Since this excursion I re-visited Camps Bay several times ; and, not- withstanding a careful search, I doubt not that many plants have escaped my notice. January 1st, 1811. This day is generally kept by the Dutch as the greatest holiday in the year. The custom of sending to each other new-year’s gifts is still kept up among them; and, in many families, the slaves are permitted to enjoy the day with their own friends; on which occasion, they dress in all their best clothes. * Near this Blockhouse, I had already collected sixty-nine species, on the 21st of of December ; and from the corresponding part of my “ Catalogue” the following names are selected : Growing on the side towards the town, may be seen, Diosma villosa Serissa ? capensis. Th. F]. Cap. Stobeea atractyloides Burm. Afr. p. 257. tab. 94. (Vulgo) Aspalathus spinosa “ Schaapdrolletjes” Chironia baccifera , Cassine maurocenia Blechnum australe Lightfootia subulata Adiantum Aithiopicum Borbonia lanceolata Celastrus pyracanthus Kiggellaria Africana Myrsine Africana Arenaria rubra Juncus punctorius And on that side of the Blockhouse, towards Camp’s Bay, Stachys Aithiopica Celastrus laurinus Athanasia crithmifolia Erica Petiverit Leyscra gnaphalodes Anthospermum Aithiopicum Osteospermum spinescens Chrysocoma Comaurea Bubon gummiferum Aristida Capensis Ginanthe inebrians Carex clavata? Rhus angustifolium Passerina filiformis Pelargonium tabulare Diosma rugosa Salvia Africana Juncus Capensis. Athanasia parviflora 39 SLAVES. 1JaAN. It certainly softens some part of the horrid idea of slavery, to see that slaves possess, notwithstanding their humiliated condition, a mind which allows them to enjoy happiness whenever it may fall within their reach ; or whenever their masters are fortunately of so humane and just a disposition as to look upon them as fellow- creatures, and to consider them as entitled to some reasonable share of the comforts of life. It would be unjust not to add, that this disposition in their masters is very common, especially in Cape Town. And though, probably, their humanity may often be attri- butable to self-interest, which bids them take every care of so valu- able a part of their property, yet it is not for us to make a nice distinction in the motives, so long as the benefit which the poor slave enjoys from it, is equal in both cases. The most valuable slaves are the Malays; especially such as have been born at Cape Town. These are instructed in all the common mechanical arts, and in every useful employment for which they may be found to have suitable capacities. ‘The males are taught to be carpenters, cabinet-makers, masons, shoemakers, tailors, cooks,, coachmen, valets, or handicraftsmen of any kind: while the females fill the stations of mantua-maker, cook, nurse, or of various other domestic servants. In dexterity these coachmen excel all our boasted and most accomplished “ whips,’ even of the first rate ; for it is a common sight in Cape Town, to see a Malay standing in a long paardewagen, driving six horses at full trot, and turning the corners of the streets with the greatest facility. The Malays consider themselves superior to all other slaves ; and look down on the Hottentots as a very inferior race, who, they say, are descended from orang-outangs. They pride themselves not a little on their fine, long, glossy, black hair ; and, notwithstanding their swarthy complexion, their countenances are often handsome. Some of them, whose fathers during several generations have been whites, are quite as fair as any European. They are clever, good, and generally faithful servants; but very sensible of insult, and mindful and revengeful of past injuries. 1811. SLAVES. 33 The value of a Malay slave varies according to his known character and qualifications; the price is sometimes as high as 5000 rix dollars, and ‘appeared to me (in 1815), to be still on the increase; a circumstance which may be attributed both to the abolition of that disgusting trade, and to the increasing demand for servants. For a valet, whom I wished to have hired during my stay in Cape Town, I was to have paid to his owner thirty rix dollars per month; and to have clothed and fed him. And this was considered so reasonable a sum, that another person quickly ac- cepted the bargain before me. Speaking generally, it may be said that no white man is hired as a menial servant; he would consider it a degradation to do, as they term it, the work of a slave: and I believe that whites, in all slave-countries, entertain similar sentiments. The number of free Malays, the descendants of those who have received manumission, is considerable ; and by keeping petty shops, and applying their industry in various ways, either as mechanics or as dealers, they often accumulate property ; a thing which the impro- vident Hottentot, though born free, is scarcely ever known to do. The Mozambique and Madagascar slaves are at once distin- cuished from the Malays by their black colour, woolly hair, and negro countenance. ‘These are faithful, patient, and good servants : they are put to various employments; but principally to those which are the most laborious. Slaves of this race are still occa- sionally brought into the colony, by means of those captured ships which are too often found trading contrary to the Abolition Act, and are condemned here as legal prizes. These vessels have con- tained each, on an average, about 250 slaves: these are assigned by Government to different masters, for the term of fourteen years, as apprentice-slaves ; but it is to be hoped that this source of import- ation will soon cease altogether. Nothing that the most able and ingenious advocates for slavery have advanced, can stand against that powerful objection, that it is a practice morally wrong, and directly contrary to the best and dearest feelings of human nature. The ceremony of marriage is seldom or never used among the FE 34 SLAVES. 1—3 Jan. slaves, as it would be rendered nugatory by the power which the master unfortunately has, of selling the husband and the wife sepa- rately. Since humanity has gone so far, much to the credit of civilized Europe, and of the English nation in particular, as to put an end to the cruel traffic, let it go but a step farther, and forbid the more cruel practice of tearing the poor helpless woman from the man she loves, from the father of her children, or from the children that yet require a mother’s care. The offspring of a slave-woman, whoever the father may be, are the property of her owner. These are often allowed to be the play- mates of the children of the family to which they belong; and, as they grow older, they sometimes become their associates also; a fact which shows how very far many inhabitants of this colony are from being cruel and unfeeling slave-masters. Slaves are often bequeathed by their owner to his children, and constitute, not unfrequently, their whole patrimony. These, increas- ing in number, are let out on hire to different masters, and ultimately become a sufficient, and, in many instances, the only source of “Hie come. Sometimes a slave is permitted to hire himself; that is, to work for whatever master he may choose, or to employ his time in any manner best suited to his inclination, provided he bring home every night, to his master or mistress, a certain stipulated sum of money. Every slave, or even Hottentot, who is found at a distance from home, without a pasbrief, or passport, signed by his master or some responsible person, is liable to be taken into custody as a runaway or vagabond ; and this precaution alone is a powerful check to prevent a slave from absconding. Yet it seems hardly fair to place a free- man, as the Hottentot is said to be, under the same restraint; al- though it must be confessed, that there are some circumstances in which its operation is very salutary. 3rd. This morning, attended only by a good-natured Mozambique slave-boy, named Jak, I made an excursion on foot to a place called Paradise, situate on the back of Table Mountain, or, rather, on the. eastern side of that range of mountains which runs from the Devil’s | 1811. ROODEBLOEM. — RONDEBOSCH. — NIEUWLANDS. 35 Mountain to Hout-baay (Wood Bay). It is between seven and eight miles distant from Cape Town, the road taking first a south-easterly, and then a south-westerly direction. After passing the castle *, we continued our walk along a broad road of great traffic, it being the only one by which the town is entered from the side of the land. We passed Roodebloem (here pronounced Roibloom), where the great road from Hottentot Holland and the interior of the colony, joins the road from Simon’s Bay. This place is called Roodebloem, from a profusion of red flowers (probably Gladioli,) which annually sprang up there before the land was brought under cultivation. Rondebosch (Round-wood) is an assemblage of villas and gardens, distributed along the first part of the road; and here many of the inhabitants of Cape Town have their country seats. A little farther on, we crossed the Liesbecks river, a plentiful streamlet, at a place called Westervoort Bridge. Hereabouts the country becomes ex- tremely beautiful, every where shaded with groves and large trees of luxuriant growth, between which are inter spersed vineyards, gardens, and many handsome buildings. Turning to the right, or westward, out of the Wynberg road, we followed another, equally broad and good, and delightfully shaded by large oaks. This led us by Nieww- lands, (Newlands,) at that time the seat of General Grey ; but which has since become the official country residence of the Governor. Near this place is a beautiful spot, called the Brewery, where, in the midst of groves and plantations, stands an elegant mansion, built after the designs of Mons. Thibault the government architect and - surveyor, to whose taste and talents in architecture, Cape Town is much indebted. The country between Newlands and Paradise is rich in botany, beyond all that I could have imagined; and, as a European, I might say that we wandered through coppices of green-house plants, and forced our way through thickets of rare exotics. My sable com- panion, witnessing the care with which I collected specimens of * See the vignette at page 11. F 2 36 A WALK TO 3 JAN. every thing we passed, caught at last some feelings of botanical plea- sure, and good-naturedly plucked for me every showy flower he saw; and among them some which otherwise might, perhaps, have escaped my notice. The weather was exceedingly pleasant, and, at this spot, quite serene, although at Cape Town a disagreeable south-easter con- tinued blowing the whole day. I could have passed many hours in this charming spot, and the evening would have come on before I should have strayed a mile from it, or have discovered half the plants it produced ; but Mr. Hesse and part of his family having ap- pointed to meet me at Paradise, I hastened away. I, however, could scarcely be a loser by doing so, as I found the remaining part of the way equally rich in variety. The country by degrees assumed a less cultivated appearance, and the number of whitened villas diminished in proportion as we advanced. In approaching the end of our journey, we ascended a consider- able way up the foot of the mountains. Here we found Paradise, a very picturesque spot, embosomed in woods. Owing to this elevated and woody situation, the air felt several degrees cooler than on the open plains below. Here and there, through the boughs of the trees, a beautiful and extensive prospect opened over the Cape Flats (Kaapsche Viakte). ‘The name of this place is derived from its plea- sant situation, and abundance of trees. The only building here was a dilapidated cottage, inhabited by a person placed in charge of the woods. I intended to have taken my dinner under the shade of some — fine oak-trees ; but Jak, supposing that I should prefer a house to the open air, had asked leave of the mistress of the cottage, that he might unpack the basket and spread our provisions within doors; and, as soon as this was done, came running to me in the woods, where I was busily employed, to tell me that dinner was ready. The meal was just finished when the expected party arrived. On foot we were able to advance much higher up the mountain, and penetrate deeper into the woods, which consisted wholly of indigen- ous trees in a state of nature, and of which some large pieces of timber were still standing, having escaped the axe merely by growing in situations difficult of access. We had no time to examine these 1811. PARADISE. 37 woody ravines, as the evening was fast approaching, and a slave was sent to let us know that the carriage was ready to take us home. I quitted this place with the more regret, as I did not expect to have an opportunity of visiting it again: and I have been since informed by Mr. Polemann, that the woody kloofs, or ravines in this range, contain many of the forest trees and other plants which, according to common opinion, are only to be found in more distant parts of the colony. * * This day’s collection amounted to 104 species; among which were found on the road near to Cape Town, Serpicula rubicunda. Cat. Geog. 404. Folia — Osteospermum imbricatum linearia opposita integerrima glabra: plan- —_ Chironia frutescens ta minuta ; S. repente multotiés minor. Lobelia secunda. Between Newlands and Paradise, the following may be seen, together with a sur- prising variety of other plants, growing in all their wild beauty; some in heathy places, some between the shrubs and bushes, and others in the woods and shady places. In heathy places grow, — Lythrum Hyssopifolia ! perhaps accident- Cyclopia genistoides Restio tetragonus Hydrocotyle virgata Cinanthe inebrians Thesium strictum Penaea mucronata Selago rapunculoides Polygala Garcini. De C. Andropogon hirtus. Th. Arnica piloselloides Psoralea capitata. ally introduced from Europe. Brabeium stellatifolium Adiantum Ethiopicum Blechnum australe Gnaphalium foetidum. By the road-side, — Poa filiformis Dactylis serrata Verbena officinalis ! perhaps accidentally introduced from Europe. Fibiscus gossypinus ? Psoralea decumbens. In shrubby and bushy places, — Borbonia ciliata At Paradise, in the wood, under the moun- Arctotis dentata tain, — Struthiola guniperina ? Aspidium Capense Cassytha filiformis Todea Africana Thesium strictum Hlalleria lucida Cynanchum filiforme Asparagus scandens Scabiosa rigida Bryonia punctata ? Phylica plumosa Alchemilla Capensis Montinia acris. In woods and shady places, — Schizaea pectinata Geranium incanum Passerina filiformis Gnidia sericea Aspidium aculeatum ? Indigofera filifolia Knowltonia vesicatoria Grewia occidentalis Juncus Capensis. 38, GOVERNOR’S LEVEE AND BALL. 7—24 JAN. “th. At six o’clock in the morning, a shock of an earthquake was felt by many persons, although it was so slight as not to awaken me. In countries which have for a great length of time been subject to earthquakes, their inhabitants may pass over so slight a shock as this, without any alarm ; but to others, to whom this power of nature is known only by description, the smallest symptom of it is really terrifying. In Cape Town, at this time, the least circumstance re- sembling it was capable of exciting their fears; and I have known a whole party, in the midst of their conviviality, fly precipitately out of the house on one of the guests happening, in a lively mood, to dance across the room above that in which they were assembled, and cause the floor to shake. 18th. Yesterday, in honor of the Queen’s birth-day, the Go- vernor gave, as usual, a grand dinner to about two hundred persons, Dutch and English. On this day his levee was well attended ; and in the evening a public ball was given at the Government-house. At these parties I had a very favourable opportunity of seeing the beau monde of Cape Town. The ball-room was crowded. The ladies, who were for the greater part Dutch, were dressed neatly, and to great advantage ; and both they and the gentlemen appeared to have adopted the fashions and manners of English society. Country- dances afforded the chief amusement; neither waltzes nor quadrilles being at that time generally in vogue. After supper, the dancing was renewed with spirit, and continued until a late hour, the party being apparently much gratified. 23rd. This night the Devil’s Mountain presented a curious sight. At about two-thirds of its height, it was encircled by an irre- gular line of fire, which continued slowly advancing towards the summit, varying in direction and in brightness. It had been con- stantly burning during the day-time ; but was not visible till darkness came on; and, having expended itself, went out before the next morning. Although it was amusing to watch the progress of this line, I could not view it with the eye of an unconcerned spectator ; for, having made arrangements for an excursion to the top of Table 1811. EXCURSION TO TABLE MOUNTAIN. 39 Mountain on the following morning, I feared the fire might spread along the path by which we were to ascend, and, consuming all the vegetation in the way, disappoint my expectation of seeing the mul- titude of curious and beautiful plants which were said to grow on this celebrated mountain. ‘The slaves who daily frequent its rocky sides, to collect fire-wood for their masters, or for sale, often light a fire to warm themselves, or, perhaps, merely that they. may sit round it, and indulge in a pipe and a little idle gossip; and though it be a punish- able offence to leave it burning, it sometimes happens that they neglect extinguishing it properly, and thus occasion, almost every year, a conflagration of this kind, which not only destroys the beauty and verdant clothing of the mountain, but, in time, renders fire- wood more scarce than ever. It is a very common practice through- out the colony, at certain seasons of the year, purposely to set fire to the old dry grass and bushes, for the purpose of clearing the land, and allowing the young and fresh pasture to spring up clear from the dry stubble and withered grass, which is found to prevent the cattle feed- ing with advantage on the new herbage. 24th. As the view from the top of Table Mountain is considered to be most interesting, just at sunrise, we began, at a very early hour, to make every necessary arrangement, that we might reach the sum- mit about that time. The party consisted of Mr. Hesse, Mr. Pole- mann, Mr. Renou, Mr. Jones chaplain of the Scipion man-of-war, and myself; being all, as we remarked, of a different native language, belonging respectively to Hanover, Denmark, France, Wales, and England; and, to increase this variety of tongues, the slaves whom we took with us happened also to differ from each other. Our polyglot party being assembled at the hour appointed, we set out at a quarter past three in the morning. As the town is not regularly lighted by lamps, we depended entirely on the light of the stars. Nothing but the sound of our early footsteps disturbed the dead silence of the night ; for here no bawling watch tells the towns- man the hour, at a time when it can be of no use to know it. From the town, the ground rises in a regular ascent to the foot 40 ASCENT UP 24 JAN. of the mountain, a little below which is the Water-mill, the most ele-. vated habitation in Table Valley, and the last house on our road. At this time the day began to dawn, and the sober light of this early hour disclosed to our view, with peculiar solemnity, the stupendous precipice which we were to ascend. It presented a surface ap- parently flat and perpendicular, leaving me to wonder where it could be possible for us to find a way up to its summit; but a cleft, or ravine, was pointed out, and that up this a path would be found ; though, it was confessed, that in some places the ascent was so ex- ceedingly steep as to be but barely practicable. At a little after four o’clock, we reached Platte Klip, (flat rock,) a large, broad, flat, inclined rock, of granite, lying across the bed of a ravine, and over which a stream of water was at this time silently gliding down, in a thin and almost imperceptible sheet, but which, in the rainy season, becomes a furious torrent. Our path lay over the upper part of this rock, and some caution is required in crossing it, as the water renders it very slippery. Notwithstanding this caution, one of the slaves missed his step, slipped, and was carried part of the way down the rock, much to the amusement of his fellow-servants. By good fortune, however, he escaped unhurt; yet he might have been severely bruised by such an accident. The path soon became more steep and laborious, and the sun, trom behind the distant mountains of Hottentot Holland, rose upon us before we had climbed much more than half the height. We had been told that a sunrise, viewed from the top of this mountain, is particularly beautiful ; but I perceived in it nothing remarkable. I observed none of those streams of light which, in England, may often be seen radiating from the sun, just before it appears above the ho- rizon, and which are so trite a feature in pictures of sunrise. Its horizontal beams illumined, with a reddish tinge, the huge mass of perpendicular rock which towered in majestic grandeur above our heads, and, together with the rude wildness of the scene, produced an effect truly sublime. Still, however, that part of the. mountain abeve us never appeared so lofty as it really was, its vastness being 1811. TABLE MOUNTAIN. 4] intercepted from our view by the nearer and more projecting - masses. The Devil’s Mountain, which appeared quite close to us on our left, is a part of Table Mountain, and is separated from it only at the top, its elevation being not much inferior. It seemed to accom- pany us in our ascent, and slowly to rise as we climbed the steep ; but, to our right, the Lion’s Head, on the contrary, seemed to sink as we mounted above the level of its summit. Looking behind us, we watched the hills and distant mountains to the north and east, slowly making their appearance one behind another, till the exten- sive and grand range of the Hottentot Holland mountains, stood, with its distant blue craggy summits, a barrier to the prospect, being in some parts, loftier even than Table Mountain. These, with the broad, intervening expanse of level country, were the grandest ob- jects which we noticed during the ascent. On each side of our path was scattered a great variety of shrubs and plants, some growing out of the bare rock. None were of a much greater height than six or seven feet, and the greater part not larger than one year’s growth, owing to a fire which happened the year before on the mountain, and which unfortunately spread all the way up this ravine. Crassula coccinea had, in many places, escaped the devastation, and its fine scarlet flowers, peeping from between the rocks and herbage, caught the eye much sooner than other beau- tiful flowers of a less brilliant colour. ‘Towards the top, the path be- comes very steep, ascending apparently at an angle of 35 or 40 de- grees of elevation; and, in some places, even 45. Still following the same ravine, we entered an enormous fissure which divides the upper edge of the mountain : this opening is called the Poort, and, on each side, two lofty natural walls of rock, gradually approaching each other, contract it, towards the top, to a width just sufficient for a pathway. ‘Two of our party, with a couple of the slaves, reached the summit by seven o’clock ; but as I had been collecting ever since day- light, and my arms began to ache with the accumulated load, I was obliged to halt with the rest, at the entrance of the Poort, as well for the purpose of taking breath ourselves, as of giving time to the other G 49 ON THE SUMMIT OF 24 JAN. slaves to come up, who had not been able to keep pace with us. A Mozambique negro, one of our servants, was quite exhausted with the fatigue, and crawled along so slowly, that we began to fear his streneth would not be equal to the task, and that both he and his load must be left below. However, with a little more courage and perseverance, we all reached the summit safely, at a quarter past seven. * The view, looking downwards through the Poort, is awful and singularly grand. The morning was exceedingly favourable, and not a cloud intercepted the very distant horizon. The air on the sum- mit felt cool, and the thermometer, at eight o’clock, was not higher than 59° of Fahrenheit, (12° of Reamur) ; and at ‘ten minutes before nine it rose only to 60° Fahrenheit, although it was now the middle of the summer season. We observed a small cloud forming on the Devil’s Mountain, but the increasing heat of the day soon dis- persed it. Our first care, after we were all assembled, was to prepare break- fast; and a place was immediately selected, between some huge blocks of stone, which formed a commodious room, the ceiling of which was the azure sky. The cloth was spread on a flat table of * The following are the names of some of the plants that are to be met with in the ascent up Table Mountain. Selago fasciculata Diosma oppositifolia Cinanthe ferulacea Myrica Ethiopica -Holcus asper Gnaphalium grandiflorum Cacalia bipinnata Passerina cephalophora. Th. Erica coccinea Indigofera sarmentosa Erica cerinthoides Lobelia minuta Xeranthemum speciosissemum Roélla muscosa Hermas depauperata Hydrocotyle Asiatica. Th. Aster taxifolius ? Orobanche purpurea Erica planifolia ? Osteospermum ilicifolium Phylica stipularis Aster cymbalarie Stilbe ericoides Pelargonium saniculefolium Thesium strictum ? Stoebe prostrata Evica Petiverii Crassula coccinea. 1811. TABLE MOUNTAIN. 43 stone ; a fire was soon kindled, which blazed with the fuel of Cliffortia ruscifolia, Mimetes Hartogii, and Aulax pinifolia ; excellent water was found in the cavities of the rocks, and our coffee was in a short time prepared. Notwithstanding our fatigue, the spirits of our party seemed heightened by the excursion; and, as I have always since experienced the same agreeable effects on climbing the mountains of Africa, I doubt not that a great share of it was to be attributed to the lightness and purity of the air we breathed ; although certainly the pleasant humour of our companions contributed essentially to the enjoyment which such scenes naturally afford. Although, in a general sense, the top of this mountain may be called flat and level, yet it is much less so than might be supposed, while viewing it only from below. Its surface is, in fact, both hilly and rocky, and consists of a hard sand-stone, which, in the bare and more exposed parts, is very compact and flinty. The weather having worn away the softer parts, leaves the others frequently standing out several inches, and, in some measure, resembling pieces of elks’ horns, (Cervus Alces). The whole summit is covered with plants and bushes ;. we observed standing water, and some hollows which had contained extensive ponds, although, at this season, quite dry. . The height of Table Mountain, above the surface of the ocean, has been ascertained to be 3582 English feet, which is only 126 yards less than three quarters of a mile in perpendicular height ; yet La Caille did not calculate it to be more than 3464. The Devil’s Mountain has been found to be 3315; the Lion’s Head, 2160; and the Lion’s Rump, 1143, according to Arrowsmith’s map. From the precipice which overlooks the town, a spectator cannot look down the awful depth directly beneath without feeling some dread, or giddiness : and some of our party could not, on that account, venture within several yards of the brink. The view, as might be expected, is most extensive ; for, calculation proves that the eye ranges over the ocean to the distance of 73 miles ; and that a mountain of equal height, would be within the scope of vision, though distant 146 miles. The appearance of this view may more easily be imagined than ew 44 VIEW FROM 2 JAN. described ; and I shall, therefore, only enumerate the different parts which composed it. Nothing was to be seen from the south-east to the south and west, but the mountain itself: commencing at the west, on the left hand, was a vast expanse of ocean ; and nearer, in the foreground, but much below us, the Lion’s Head. Far in sea, Dassen Island was visible; and, beyond this, continuing the view onward towards the right, we could faintly see, in a hazy distance, that part of the western coast of Africa which lies near Saldanha Bay. Nearer, and more to the right, was Robben Island ; north-eastward, on the opposite side of Table Bay, in the distance, Capécberg (Cotton Mountain), Kéeberg (Cow Mountain), Dassenberg, Contreberg, Blaaiiw- berg (Biue Mountain), Riébeck’s Kasteél (Riebeck’s Castle), Padarde- berg (Horse Mountain), Tygerberg (Tiger Mountain), and, beyond these, the great range from Roodezand to Hottentot-Holland Kloof, were all in sight. On the hither side of the bay, close, as it were, under our feet, and which we look down upon as on a neat, highly-finished map, lay Cape Town, and the villas and gardens which are dispersed between it and the mountain. From this point of view, the regular plan of the town was not so remarkable as from the Kloof leading to Van Camp’s Bay. With a glass, we could plainly distinguish people walking along the streets. The ships at anchor were so diminished, that they scarcely formed a feature in the view. A little farther to the right, T’able Bay terminates in a bold sweep ; and continuing on still to the right, the eye, passing along the flat sandy isthmus, or Kaapsche Vlakie, may distinguish Rondebosch, and its little spots of tufted trees, the indication of so many villas. On the further side of these sand-flats, are seen the mountains of the Paarl and Stellenbosch. Just beyond Stellenbosch, in a grand, bold and serrated outline, rise the mountains of Hottentot-Holland, which, continuing their range southward, bound the eastern side of False Bay ; whose northern shore, being edged by the Downs, or ridges of snow-white sand, is remarkable and singular. The view was ter- minated by the Devil’s Mountain on the right. I employed myself in making a drawing of this interesting and extensive prospect, while the rest of our party walked to the western edge of the mountain, 1811. TABLE MOUNTAIN. 45 where there is a fine view of Camps Bay, and the southern Atlantic ocean. The atmosphere, during the whole day, continued clear; not a cloud interrupted the prospect ; the heat, however, caused a thin haze to rise from the plain, but this intercepted only the lower parts of the distant mountains. The spot where we had breakfasted, had been appointed as our rendezvous, and as soon as we were all again assembled, we commenced our walk to the eastern side. A large kind of monkey, with a long greenish-brown fur, (Cercopithecus ur- sinus), called Baviaan by the colonists, inhabits this mountain. It is an animal which is found in almost every part of southern Africa which I have visited, and is met with only in the mountains and rocky places. I saw no bird of any kind, and but few insects; a species of butterfly *, which I have never seen but on the tops of the highest mountains, being all that was collected: but the deficiency in zoology was compensated by a rich harvest in botany. + * Papilio (Hipparchia) montana. B. P. Hyperbius ? Lin. Sys. Nat. ed. Gmel. p. 2285. Alze omnes supra, et anteriores utrinque, fuscee, area rufa: posteriores subtus canes- centes, supra (vix infra) ocellis duobus minutis; anteriores utrinque ocello bipupillato, annulo flavo obsoleto circumdato. + The following names of a few, out of the great variety of curious plants which grow on the swmmit of Table Mountain, may serve to give some idea of the nature of its vegetable productions. af Cliffortia ruscifolia Dilatris viscosa Aulax pinifolia Leucadendrum salignum ? Staavia glutinosa Erica empetrifolia Staavia radiata Evica spumosa 4G PRODUCTIONS OF 24 JAN. Having arrived at the eastern edge of the mountain, we rested a while to contemplate the extensive prospect below and around us. On our left, the Devil’s Mountain obstructed the view eastward ; but commencing from that point, the eye surveys in succession, the Sund Flats or isthmus curiously marked by the roads leading towards Hot- tentot Holland, which have the appearance of irregular. lines of a lighter color ; Rondebosch, Wynberg, Witteboom and Constantia, Zeekoe Valley and False Bay. Beyond these, are seen the important pass of Hottentot Holland Kloof, and False Cape or Cape Hanglip.* Southward are seen the pass and mountain of Muisenberg (Mouse- mountain) and Simon’s Bay ; the whole length of the Cape Peninsula, as far as the Cape of Good Hope Proper, with Hout Bay (Wood Bay), and Steenbergen (Stone Mountains), present themselves surrounded by the boundless ocean. ° Ehrharta ramosa. Th. Drosera cuneifolia Gleichenia polypodioides Chrysitrix Capensis Erica tubiflora Erica planifolia ? Chironia jasminoides ? Penca mucronata Erica gelida Erica comosa Erica Sebana Erica helicacaba Erica Pluknetii Erica imbricata Holcus asper. 'Th. Gnidia oppositifolia. 8. Willd Pterygodium atratum Exacum albens Menyanthes (Villarsia) ovata Elegia juncea Erica glutinosa Orobanche Capensis Hermas capitata Satyrium bracteatum Disa flexuosa Disa patens Selago spuria Hydrocotyle hederafolia. B. Cat. Alallia asarina ? Geog. 658.—H. decumbens villosa, Cluytia alaternoides foliis reniformibus, 3—5 angulatis ; Thestum capitatum angulis acutis. Erica tenuifolia ? Protea cynaroides Diosma crenata Mimetes jfimbriefolius. Salish. Staebe incana ? The numbers in my catalogue, previous to this excursion, amounted to 516; all ob- tained in the vicinity of Cape Town: notwithstanding which, this single day’s collection added no less than 148 species, 51 of which were found in the ascent, and 97 on the sum- mit. The number of individual specimens selected and preserved this day, was 1133. * Corrupted most probably from Hanghlip, a hanging rock. 1811. TABLE MOUNTAIN. 44 In surveying trom this high eminence, so great an extent and such a variety of objects, sensations are produced of a very agreeable kind, not at all connected with the idea of picturesque scenery. They seem rather to arise from a feeling of superiority and command, which a great height above all we behold, and an elevation above the in- habited earth, seem to inspire in the spectator, who, at the same time, breathes the freest and purest air. - After some time spent in admiring this scene, we returned by a route nearer to the edge of the precipice facing the town. Such a ramble was, we all confessed, not unattended with fatigue; and, for my part, I had the more reason to complain, as the rugged and sharp rocks we traversed, had literally worn the shoes off my feet. They were, it is true, but an old pair at setting out ; and such only, is it advisable to take, on account of the greater ease and safety which they give the wearer in climbing rocky places. At about three o’clock in the afternoon, we arrived at the top of the ravine, by which we first ascended; and near to it we found a spot very convenient for our dining-place, sheltered from the wind, on one side, by a ledge of rock, of which I brought away a small piece to serve as aspecimen of the material of which the whole of the summit of the mountain is formed; and, on another, by a tree of a species of Protea*, the largest I had seen of this kind ; being between eight and nine feet high, with a bushy round head, and trunk half a foot in diameter. The leaves which terminated every branch, were of a bright red color, and much more conspicuous than the flowers themselves. Before our dinner was quite finished, the weather began to change, and soon became very chilly; (at 4 P.M. 58° F.) the wind increased, and misty clouds flying with rapidity past us, threatened soon to envelope, both us and the whole mountain. Those who had visited the summit of this mountain before, were aware of the danger * The Protea cucullata of Linneeus, Mimetes fimbriefolius ot Salisbury, and Mimetes Hartogit of Brown. 48 DESCENT FROM TABLE MOUNTAIN. 24—2Z9 Jan. there is in being on it in such weather; and reminded us of a fatal accident which happened there a few months before, when a field-officer of the garrison, who had been dining there with a party of friends, was, in the same manner, overtaken by thick clouds, through which he lost his way, and after wandering about for a long while, at last fell over a deep precipice, and was dashed to pieces. We, therefore, without loss of time, prepared for descending, and ordered the slaves to keep with us, as they only, were well acquainted with every turn of the path; so that, we felt no apprehension of missing our way. Our French companion, recollecting the circumstance related by Thunberg*, of his countryman Sonnerat, although equipped with three pair of “ French pumps,” having returned to the town bare- footed, had taken the precaution of providing himself with a second pair of shoes, strong enough to have lasted four such excursions. But as none of our party had walked over so much ground as myself, these shoes, fortunately for me, were at my service. At a quarter after five, our whole party commenced the descent, by the same path we climbed in the morning ; but now, owing to its steepness, we found it not easy to avoid descending more rapidly than was agreeable. There is, indeed, another path by which we might have descended on the side towards Camps Bay, and one towards Hout Bay ; but these were said to be more difficult, and seldom used, except by slaves in search of firewood. At a quarter before seven we halted at Platte Klip, where we rested a quarter of an hour. We reached home by eight o’clock ; having made the descent in two hours and a half; whereas the ascent had occupied, at the least, three hours and three quarters. 29th. Not having been able to meet witha map of Southern Atrica, exactly suited to the purpose of my journey, I employed part of my time in constructing one, in which I inserted all the particulars that were to be obtained at Cape Town. These, indeed, were very * Thunberg’s Travels, vol. i. p. 221. Engl. ed. 1811. SCHEME OF THE INTENDED JOURNEY. 49 few ; and in the course of my work I discovered that even the best published maps of the colony were both deficient and inaccurate. Nor were government, it seems, in possession of any general survey which could convey a correct idea of the country. A manuscript map, made during the Dutch government by a surveyor, named Leiste, was, at this time, mentioned to me, as the unacknowledged source of much improvement in some maps of the colony ; but I had no opportunity of seeing it. Much of my time also, was spent in arranging and digesting my plans, and in collecting all the particulars that were known relative to the countries and nations beyond the colony. From a missionary of the name of Anderson, I had an opportunity of obtaining much satisfactory information, as he had resided for several years at Klaarwater, a Hottentot village on the Orange River or Gariep, lying in the road to a large African town, called Litékun (pronounced Letdhkoon). I feel much indebted to him for the readi- ness with which, during his stay at Cape Town, he communicated those particulars which I was desirous of knowing. In my plan it had long been a fixed point, to make my way through the most inland regions, taking a direction which would ultimately bring me ‘to one of the European settlements on the western coast within the southern tropic ; and thence to hire a vessel to St. Helena, where I had no doubt of meeting with every assistance of which I might stand in need. From that island I should not only find a ready opportunity of returning to England, but should also have many chances of soon getting a passage for my Hottentots, in some ship bound for the Cape. Every published account of the southernmost part. of Africa agreed in stating, that, from the Cape Colony northward along the western coast, as far as that country had ever been visited or seen, the land was extremely deficient in water, and consequently barren, and thinly peopled; the few inhabitants living in great poverty. With these accounts, all the reports I heard at the Cape corresponded. On the other hand, the little which was known of the interior regions lying on the eastern side, indicated beautiful, fertile, and H 50 DR. COWAN’S EXPEDITION. 29—31 Jan. populous countries. Of the intermediate parts and their inhabitants, beyond Litakun, nothing was known. All this determined me to avoid the western coast, although that would have been the shortest way, and to adopt a route which should conduct me through the heart of the continent. Litakun, then, was one point to which I resolved to direct my course ; and that I might see as much of the Cape Colony as was conveniently possible, I proposed to make Plet- tenberg’s Bay, Algoa Bay, and Graaff Reynet, in my road: having, at _ the same time, in view, as a desirable object, the investigation of that unexplored and unknown tract of country, lying between Graaff Reynet and Litakun; for, according to the supposed position of these places, Klaarwater would not lie in that track. I continued thus gleaning information from every quarter within my reach, and familiarising myself with the subject; nor did I, on this account, much regret being obliged to delay the commencement of the journey. The extent of my plan was known to but few of my friends: several reasons induced me to keep it secret ; of which, one was the difficulty, and, perhaps, impossibility, which would be found in persuading Hottentots to enter into my service, declaredly for the purpose of going farther into the interior than had been before attempted. This reluctance to venture far beyond the boundaries of the colony, was occasioned chiefly by the total failure of an expedition sent out by the Governor, under Dr. Cowan and Captain Donovan, two gentlemen belonging to the Cape garrison. Their party con- sisted of a Dutch colonist, named Jacob Krieger; two Englishmen, private soldiers in the garrison; and about fifteen Hottentots, with four waggons, &c. Their instructions were, to make the best of their way to the Portuguese settlement of Mozambique, on the eastern coast. They departed from Cape Town in September, 1808, and on the 24th of the following December, had reached the river Molappo ; since which time, no tidings whatever had been heard of them, and it was generally believed that all must have perished. * * And even at this time, (1821,) nothing certain is known respecting the fate of any one of the party. 1811. A RAMBLE OVER THE ISTHMUS. a This melancholy result of an expedition, the success of which had been regarded as certain, cast a damp on every similar under- taking ; and such of my friends as knew my intentions, derived from it an argument to dissuade me from my plan; and they also repre- sented my bodily strength and constitution as unequal to the task. But a project which had been formed so many years, was not easily to be put aside: these well-meant representations made no impres- sion, and I continued unmoved in my resolution. 31st. This day was dedicated to a ramble over the Sand Flats, from Salt River to Munnich’s Bridge. Salt River, or Zout Rivier, lies eastward from the town; and by this name is commonly understood a small collection of houses, not far from the sea-shore, and situated on the lower part of the Liesbeck’s river, by which place, passes the great road into the interior of the colony, branching afterwards northward and eastward. The water here being salt, has given rise to the name,, although a river running by Paarden (or Horse) Island, is properly the Zoué Rivier. In this part of the Flats grow various saline plants. * In the ponds hereabouts, and in many other parts of the colony, there grows a plant called Water-uyentjes +, the root of which, when roasted, is much eaten by the slaves and Hottentots. The heads of * Such as, — Chenolea diffusa. Th. Potamogeton marinum Frankenia Nothria Scirpus Holoschoenus Falckia repens Triglochin maritimum, and Statice scabra Salicornia. Scirpus maritimus Together with which, near Salt River, may be found, — Cyperus textilis Trifolium repens Campanula procumbens Cyperus corymbosus Cotula coronopifolia Cyperus lanceus Cotula integrifolia. B. Cat. Geog. 515. Juncus punctorius — affinis C. corenopifolie sed differt Cyperus fascicularis. foliis lanceolatis integris. Cliffortia strobilina Cliffortia sarmentosa Typha latifolia Polygala (Muraltia) linophylla. B. | Scirpus lacustris. Th. Cat. Geog. 510. Anthericum (Phalangium) fimbriaium + Aponogeton distachyum. Hg o-~b 52 SALT RIVER.— COUNTRY WAGGONS. 31 Jan. flowers, boiled, make a dish which may, in taste and appearance, be compared to ‘spinach. The country about this spot is quite level; the bushes and frequent eminences of sand, not interrupting the general flatness of the view. The distance is not more than three English miles from the town, the houses of which continue in sight from every part of the road; Table Mountain, the Devil’s Mountain, and Lion’s Head forming always the most conspicuous feature of the landscape. This scene afforded me a characteristic, though not a picturesque, subject for a sketch. On this road, waggons are constantly passing to and from the distant parts of the colony; although the month of March, on ac- count of the rains which then fall, and produce a supply of pasture along the road for the numerous passing teams of oxen, is the time when the greatest number of country waggons arrive in Cape Town. Their appearance, drawn by. eight or ten to sixteen oxen, the fore- most pair led by a Hottentot, who, if a young boy, is often quite naked, together with the immoderately long whips, and their loud cracking, presents to a stranger a novel and amusing sight. The length of the stock and thong of these whips, is no less than thirty. feet, and sometimes even more. A boor considers the driving-seat as a post of honor ; but the ofiice of leading the oxen, is thought too degrading for any but Hottentots and slaves, the colonist never per- forming it but in the greatest necessity, and then only in the more dangerous parts of the road. As the boors often stop but a single day in Cape Town, though they have, perhaps, come the distance of a twenty days’ journey, they very frequently unyoke, or outspan, as it is called, at Salt River, to be ready to enter the town by day-break the next morning, or as soon as the barrier gates are opened. By commencing the business of the day at this early hour, they contrive, generally, to sell the produce they may have brought with them, and to purchase all they may be in want of, in the same day, and immediately quit a place where their oxen would soon starve for want of pasture. } This want of pasture around Cape Town is a serious inconvenience ; and, in other respects, the situation of the chief town of the colony, 1811. DEEP SANDS. 53 could scarcely have been fixed in a spot worse suited for inland traffic. Standing, as it does, at the extreme corner of the country, the num- ber of places within a moderate distance is diminished to one-fourth ; while the length of road from one-half of the number of farms is thus doubled, if compared with what their distance would have been, had its situation been more central. Besides which, the number of miles of incurably heavy sand, by which the town is surrounded, render it still more difficult of access. Yet, in a country like this, destitute of rivers capable of admitting ships far inland, the capital can flourish no where but on the coast, and therefore can be placed centrally in one way only ; that is, either with respect to the length of the colony, or to its breadth. From Salt River, my walk led me in a south-easterly direction to the last windmill; beyond which, ascending the higher ground, is a heath of pure sand, loose, and exceedingly white. It was quite covered with Hemanthus coccineus in full bloom, the red fiowers ot which formed a fine contrast with the snow-white soil, and produced a very singular and curious effect. Among them was a variety with white flowers. * The wind, blowing very strong, seemed ill-naturedly disposed to put a stop to all further observations, by leaving no other alternative than walking with my eyes shut, or being blinded with showers of sand. In many parts of the Isthmus, this sand is carried from place to place by the wind, in such quantities, that, in some spots, the bushes exhibit their roots standing bare, and exposed to the at- mosphere ; while, in others, they are nearly buried, leaving no part visible but the tops of their branches. The large mounds, which are here frequently met with, have been formed originally by the sand thus accumulating round either a single bush, or a clump of bushes. * On the Flats, a little beyond the windmills, grow, — Evica mucosa Erica margaritacea ? Erica gracilis ? Erica verticillata Erica concinna Blairia ericoides ? Erica cerinthoides 54 HOTTENTOT FIG. . 31 JAN. The scarcity of fire-wood in Cape Town has forced the poorer inhabitants to discover a timely resource in these under-ground stems and roots, which, being in mere loose sand, are dug up with great ease. But, however convenient this source of fuel may be to indivi- duals, the destroying of the bushes, root and branch, will at last be- ; come a greater inconvenience to the public, as the Isthmus will then be reduced to a sand-desert, still more difficult for waggons to travel over than it is at present. If an opposite system were pursued, and the growth of shrubs and trees, with sedge and sand-grasses, encou- raged, the trees would protect the soil from the action of strong winds ; while the sedge would not only fix the loose sand, and form a harder ground, but might, at the same time, afford nourishment for cattle, which would certainly prefer such pasture to the hard reed- like stalks of the different kinds of Restio that overspread a great part of these Flats. Few experiments, in the way of agricultural improve- ment, seem of more importance to Cape Town, or better worth try- ing, than that of rendering these extensive sands more easily passable, or of converting them to some use, or to some more productive purpose. From the windmill, I strayed south-easterly, nearly three hours, towards the Liesbeck river, over level ground decorated with many pretty heaths ; the sand and wind being here less annoying. The Isthmus, in most places, is clothed with bushes in great variety, and hard coarse rushes (Restiones) ; but grass is rarely to be found. Pro- tea Levisanus is every where a very common shrub *, and the Hottentot jig + grows in many places, spreading over the ground in large patches. * Noticing at this time the very evident dicecious character of this plant, and having already observed the same circumstance in several other species of Protea, I was quite con- vinced that it was a character separating all the cone-bearing Proteas into a very natural and distinct genus; and pointed it out to my friend Hesse. I then gave to it the name of Strobilaria, not being aware that the same division had just then been made in England by two different writers, both able botanists, who have each assigned to it names; the one, Chasme, Euryspermum, Protea, and Gissonia; and the other, Leucadendron, (or Leucodendron,) an old name, originally intended as a Greek version of the Dutch word Witteboom, the colonial name of the Protea argentea of Linnzeus, or the Sélver-tree. + Mesembryanthemum edule. 1811. KUKUMAKRANKEI. 55 It produces plentifully, in all seasons of the year, a fruit of the size of a small fig, of a very pleasant acid taste, when perfectly ripe. It must, however, be first divested of the outside pulp or coat, which is at all times saltish ; and even the fruit, when unripe, has a disagreeably saline and austere taste. Its name was given by the first colonists, on account of its form bearing some little resemblance to a fig, and because it is every where eaten by the Hottentots. I have frequently seen it in the market; but, by the Dutch, it is used only as a sweet- meat, in which state it still retains the same agreeable acidity. On Green Point, aid on the Flats in the neighbourhood of Cape Town, grows a celebrated little plant*, which still preserves its original Hottentot name, being known by no other than that of Kikumakranki. It has a flower much resembling the common Col- chicums of our gardens, and has also a bulbous root, close to which is produced a long, yellow, soft fruit, of the length and size of a lady’s finger, its top just appearing above ground. The taste of it is some- what pleasant, but its smell is delightful, having a perfumed odour of ripe fruit, for which it is chiefly valued. The children of Cape Town * Gethyllis ciliaris ; the fruit of which, and a longitudinal section, are represented by the above figures, of one-third of the natural size. 56 SAND MOLE. 31 Jan. sometimes go out in search of kukumakrankies ; and as it is difficult to find them, being very inconspicuous amongst the herbage, they consider it a little triumph to return home with.a few; and the kukumakranki season (June) never passes unnoticed. From three o’clock till five; the time was pleasantly spent in wandering and collecting * in a more southward direction; when, coming to a hollow spot which appeared sheltered from the wind, my negro unpacked our basket of provisions. This solitary situ- ation, in the midst of a wild bushy country, without any traces of cultivation or of human habitations, might sometimes recall to mind the romantic tale of Robinson Crusoe; and fancy would assist these ideas, if one beheld a sable attendant, busily and cheerfully employed in spreading the frugal meal before us, while seated on the ground, and delighted with the luxuries of Nature, unalloyed by restraint. The banquet was soon finished; I rose and left the poor fellow to take my place, while I rambled to a little distance to explore the heath in another quarter. Here, as well as in every other part of the Sand Flats, I observed innumerable mole-hills; and my foot very often sunk into their burrows. For this reason it is very unpleasant, if not dangerous, to ride on horseback in such places, as persons are liable to be thrown, by the feet of their horses unexpectedly sinking into these holes. The animal which makes these hillocks is a very large kind of mole- rat T, nearly as big as a rabbit, with a very soft downy ash-coloured * In the open sandy country lying eastward from Rondebosch, the following were among the number of plants added to my Herbarium. ; Phylica secunda? Th. Anthericum contortum. Th. Brunia squarrosa ? Aristea cyanea Chironia lychnoides Cliffortia ferruginea Roélla spicata Chironia frutescens Dianthus Chironia linotdes Myrica quercifolia Montinia acris Gnidia simplex + The Mus maritimus of Gmelin, Syst. Nat. vol. i. p.140. 1811. WILD PLANTS NEAR RONDEBOSCH. 57 fur, having, in appearance at least, neither eyes, ears, nor tail. It is peculiar to this colony, and is called Zand Moll (Sand-mole). From the great softness of the fur and the abundance of skins that might be obtained, it might possibly constitute an article of some value for colonial trade, or for exportation ; and it is surprising that no speculating person has hitherto attempted to convert these skins to some useful purpose. There is another kind of mole-rat, much resembling this in color and nature, but in size not exceeding the common mole of Europe: it is also peculiar to this country, and is known by the name of Bles moll (White-faced Mole) *. Its haunts may easily be discovered, as it throws up the earth in exactly the same manner as the common mole. Having already made collections on the Flats in the vicinity of Rondebosch +, six weeks before, I did not find many new objects in * The Mus Capensis of Gmel. Syst. Nat. i. p.140. That these two animals belong to a genus quite distinct from Mus, will hardly be denied; but to separate them, as a late zoological writer has done, not only into two different genera, but even into two different families, is carrying the modern rage for new genera and new orders a little too far. _ + On the 14th of December, 77 species of plants were collected ; among which were, Serpicula repens Ehrharta uniflora. B. Cat. Geog. 182. Disa barbata Ivia erecta Cyanella Capensis Anthospermum lanceolatum Exacum aureum Restio tetragonus Struthiola virgata Scheenus capitellum ? Th. Penea fruticulosa Athanasia aspera Passerina uniflora Passerina capitata. Hallia imbricata Staavia radiata Erica calycina Corymbium scabrum Erica margaritacea Cenia turbinata, Juss. Polygonum Hydropiper Cyperus prolifer Diosma oppositifolia Watsonia plantaginea . Restio Thamnochortus Hallia flaccida Passerina uniflora Watsonia spicata Drosera cuneifolia. Andropogon hirtus. Th. Briza Capensis Lobelia repens Pelargonium rapaceum Struthiola erecta Leucodendron uliginosum Brunia abrotanoides 58 THE DOWNS.— A SOUTH-EASTER. 31 JAN—14 Fee. this part of the plain. Continuing my walk over the heath, (I use this word as expressing a kind of country, like the heaths of England, wild, uncultivated, and open, and partially covered with low bushes.) I directed my course to Munnich’s Bridge, and thence, following the high road, reached the town at dark. The great extent of flat sandy country lying between Cape Town and Hottentot Holland is spoken of by various names, which seem very vaguely applied, and are used in an undefined manner; the Dutch denominate one part, the Kaapsche Duinen (Cape Downs), and another, the Kaapsche Vilakte (Cape Flats). Sometimes the term Zand Viakte (Sand Flats) implies the whole. With some writers it is called the Zsthmus, and such, in fact, it is; but a single name for so large an extent is very inconvenient for the purpose of pointing out the native places of growth of the great variety of plants which are to be found in every part of it. The English inhabitants call it merely the Downs. February 6th. This afternoon there was lightning and thunder, the first which had happened since my landing: its effects rendered it the more remarkable, for at this time the flag-staff, which had stood many years on the Lion’s Head, was struck down. 8th. During the preceding week, the wind had blown from the north-west, with rain more or less every day, and the air was cold and chilly: but it now shifted to the south-east, and again brought the cloud on Table Mountain. The south-easter continued for several days, and on the 12th blew with the greatest violence. The thermometer was 73° (18.2 R.—22.7 C.) in the middle of the day. During the continuance of this wind, the dust and sand flying about in clouds, render it very unpleasant to be out in the streets, Psoralea pinnata Arniea crocea Serruria glomerata ¢ Spielmannia Africana Leucospermum Hypophylla Psoralea aphylla Protea purpurea, Linn. Cliffortia strobilina Athanasia crithmifolia Morea spathacea. 1811. WYNBERG.—LIGHT DRAGOONS. 59 and at such times, all whose business does not oblige them to do otherwise, keep within doors. 14th. I proposed to my friend Hesse to make an excursion to Constantia ; and although it was a distance of about eleven miles, we agreed to go on foot, that we might with more facility examine the productions of the country as we walked along, and quit the beaten road to wander wherever curiosity might lead us. As we were to dine among the bushes, our negro, Jak, who now had learnt the whole of his duty in these rambles, and seemed to enjoy them as much as his master, was ordered to attend us with a basket of pro- visions and my boxes. We set out at seven in the morning. At Roodebloem we felt the symptoms of an approaching hot day; but at Rondebosch, owing, perhaps, to a cooler and more open situation, the thermometer fell to 73°. Between Rondebosch and Wynberg (Wine-hill), the sandy heath is covered with flowers and bushes, amongst which Leucaden- drum decorum is a very showy and handsome plant; not on account of its flower, but of the fine bright yellow leaves which surround it. * At Wynberg a party of the 21st regiment of light dragoons were stationed. The situation of their mess-room, in a grove, or rather avenue, of large trees, appeared to us, more especially on so warm a day, delightful and romantic. Our friend, Lieutenant Williams, would not allow us to pass without taking some refreshment. The hospi- tality and attentions which I frequently received from the officers of * Here may be found, Cliffortia sarmentosa Epilobium villosum Cissampelos Capensis Erica concinna Kiggelaria Africana Erica viscaria Aristea cyanea Leucodendrum decorum Aristea spicata ; Thuia cupressoides Cliffortia obcordata | Protea incompta ? Juncus bufonius ? Echium verrucosum ? Th, Cliffortia falcata Chironia baccifera Cinothera nocturna Asclepias crispa. 12 60 HOTTENTOT CAMP. 14 Fez. that regiment, in various parts of the colony, during the following years, naturally give rise to pleasant recollections. Those who pass their whole lives without scarcely ever, except by chance, meeting any one but their countrymen, know not the pleasure of falling in unexpectedly, in a foreign land, with one born in their own country and speaking their native language. Such occurrences have often made the word English sound more delightful to my ear, but have never been, however, able to make me forget that the good and worthy of every nation on the earth, are equally our country- men in a philanthropic sense, and equally claim our hospitality and friendship. After, resting a quarter of an hour, we resumed our walk, and descending the south side of Wynberg, to an open country, came upon the Camp, as it is called, where a part of the Cape regiment was stationed. This regiment is composed entirely of Hottentots, under the command of European officers ; and, as a rifle corps, these men are considered expert and good soldiers. Hottentots have been found very useful as artillery drivers ; and their light weight makes them preferable to Europeans for such service. ‘This camp consists of huts constructed of reeds and plaistered with mud. Those of the officers, although built of the same materials, are not wanting’ in comfort and neatness within. There is a range of stabling and bar- racks for the cavalry, and the whole forms a little village of singular and interesting appearance. The view from the camp is very extensive, sweeping over the Flats, to the Hottentot Holland mountains on the east; while westward is seen the lofty rugged range which continues from Table Mountain to Hout Bay *, and thence to Cape Point. These rocky mountains have a beautiful and grand appearance, and constitute the most prominent feature in every view hereabouts. A large gap or opening seems to separate.the southern part of Table Mountain from * Which word an Englishman should pronounce as if it were written Howd?-bay , otherwise he might convert it, in a Dutch ear, to Hat-bay, instead of WVood-bay. 1811. WITTEBOOM. 61 the Steenbergen, and through this gap, or kloof, the road descends “to Hout Bay. Neither of us being acquainted with the proper road to Con- stantia, we missed it, and wandered till we came to a very pretty farm-house, where, on enquiring our way of two women whom we saw at the door, we received an answer in good English. They | informed us that the place belonged to Mr. Duckett, an English agriculturist, who has for many years resided in the colony, and whose knowledge of European husbandry has enabled him to manage a Cape farm with considerable success: he is one of the small num- ber of English colonists who were at this time to be met with in the country. This place is called Witteboom, a name which, with great propriety, it has received on account of numerous plantations of large Witteboom, or Silver trees, which grow about it. The native station of this handsome tree, is the sloping ground at the foot of the eastern side of Table Mountain ; and at present very large plantations occupy the same situation on the northern side, next to the town. That this space should be the only part in all the colony where it grows wild, can be no subject of wonder to any person who has the least knowledge of the character of Cape botany ; since the natural places of growth of a multitude of other plants, are circumscribed by limits equally contracted. The soil between Wynberg and Constantia is a pure white sand, covered with heath, and large bushes*, chiefly of the Proteaceous tribe, the most abundant of which is the Suikerbosch (Sugar-bush). + * On the road between Wynberg and Constantia, the following plants, with a great variety of others equally interesting, are found in a wild state: Erica sebana Gnaphalium hirsutum ? Th. Rafnia opposita Gnaphalium umbellatum, Lin. Olea Capensis Cliffortia ilicifolia Rafnia triflora . Heliophila linearis Protea scolymus Polygala ? spinosa, Lin. Surruria Burmanni Osmites camphorina + Protea mellifera. 62 VISIT TO CONSTANTIA. | 14 Fes. We arrived at Constantia about two o’clock, and having received a general invitation from Mr. Cloete, the proprietor, we intended to profit by it this day, and take a view of the vineyards and cellars ; alter which, to have resumed our ramble over the heath, and dined amongst the bushes. But our intention was partly frustrated; for, the slaves having carried to him the information of our arrival, he came. out of the house, and in a friendly manner insisted on our entering, as he was just sitting down to dinner. We therefore took our seat, and although treated with marked hospitality, were more anxious soon to leave the table and pursue the objects of our excursion, than to indulge in the variety of excellent wines which were placed before us. For my part, I had not the gift of distinguishing the relative merits of all these sorts. The red Constantia, as it is called, was of a very agreeable taste; but all were excellent. After this I was shown the cellar, a long building above ground, and shaded by trees. On each side, a range of large casks, with two of much larger dimensions, contains the valuable wine which has caused the name of this place to be so well known in Europe. We were next conducted to the vineyard, which, however, is ma- naged in a manner not at all different from the other vineyards in the colony; the vines are pruned and kept in the form of dwarf bushes, much resembling currant-bushes ; and are planted in rows about six feet apart. At this time they still remained loaded with bunches of fine grapes, and the only peculiarity I could observe, was, that they were allowed to hang on the vine to ripen so long, that they had begun to shrivel, and the juice was become almost a syrup. Whatever may be the cause, or whether there be any cause really Corymbium scabrum Ceropegia (Microloma) tenuifolia Othonna crassifolia Rubus pinnatus Gnaphalium nudifolium Cliffortia strobilifera Euclea racemosa Rhus mucronatum, Th. Royena glabra Cliffortia graminea Protea (Leucospermum) Conocarpa Erica nudiflora Protea mellifera 1811. THE WILD CHESNUT. 63 existing, it is said, and believed, that wine of the quality of Con- stantia wine cannot be made on any other spot in the colony ; a most fortunate circumstance for the proprietor, whose affluence, and that of his family before him, have probably been derived from it. But this is not literally a monopoly; for the adjoining vineyard, called Little Constantia, produces wine scarcely inferior. Close to the house, stands a beautiful tree of Wilde Kastanje (Wild Chesnut), the trunk of which was fifteen inches in diameter, and thirty feet high below the branches. It well merits the generic name it has received *, and the colonial name is equally applicable. as, in the appearance of both the flower and the fruit, it very much resembles a horse-chesnut ; but in foliage it is different. This is the largest, and, perhaps, the only tree within a great distance of Cape Town. Close to it, I saw a small tree of Gardenia Rothmannia, bearing a profusion of large and very sweet-scented flowers. These were an elegant sample of the trees of the Cape forests. At half-past four we took our leave, and returned to Wynberg by the high road leading from Simon’s ‘Town, which brought us out below the Camp; and at the flag-staff, which stands at a short dis- tance from it, to convey telegraphic signals between Cape Town and Simon’s Town, we took a road to the right, which led us again over the wild heath. +. Soon after crossing the Liesbeck River, we rejoined _ the high road. The nearer we approached the town, the stronger we found the wind, which, blowing directly behind us, often forced us to run forward, although we were all exceedingly tired, and much exhausted. We reached home about eight o’clock, after a day’s * Calodendron, or “ beautiful tree.” + On the sandy heath, or Sand Flats, north of Rondebosch, grow — Erica ramentacea Erica racemosa Erica margaritacea Erica calycina Diosma oppositifolia Blairia ericoides Restio tectorum Rhinanthus glaber, Th. Staavia radiata Cyperus Sascicularis. 64 INTELLIGENCE FROM KLAARWATER. 18 Fes.—14 Mar. ramble, which, according to the road we took, could not have been less than twenty-five miles. On the 18th, Mr. Anderson came to tell me that he had just received a letter from the settlement at Klaarwater, in which his brother-missionary, residing there, informed him that a party of Hottentots from that place would arrive at Cape Town about the middle of April, bringing with them the oxen necessary for the per- formance of his journey thither; it being his intention to return and resume his labours at that station, from which he had now been ab- sent two years. Notice had also been given to him, of a report which had reached the Landdrost of Tulbagh, that five hundred emigrant Caffres * had passed along the borders of the district of Graaffreynett, in their way to the Gariep, or Orange River, on the banks of which they had formed a strong and independent settlement, not far from Klaarwater. Being a warlike set of men, discontented and irritated at the treatment they had received from all quarters, and at variance with the colonists, he was apprehensive that they would make an attack on any party travelling that way, which should not muster strong enough to defend itself against them ; and he therefore came to pro- pose, for our mutual safety and defence, as well against these Caffres, as against the Bushmen t, that we should travel in company as far. as Klaarwater, if I could consent to put off my departure from Cape Town, till the middle of May. This proposal appearing objectionable, on account of the delay it required, I hesitated in adopting it: but in ten days afterwards, * The word Caffre, or Kaffer, is generally, at the Cape, applied exclusively to the tribes inhabiting the country beyond the eastern boundary of the colony. + This is often written Bosjesman, and Boschman, which being merely Dutch words signifying men living wild among the bushes, and applied generally to several tribes of the Hottentot race, I have preferred using the English orthography, viewing it rather as a de- scriptive, than as a proper, name. ‘They call themselves Sdgua ; those, at least, who in- habit the country southward of the Gariep. Yet it is difficult to avoid inaccuracy, in the application of one collective name to a race of people who divide themselves into many separate tribes. 1811. TRANSPARENCY OF THE ATMOSPHERE. 65 having reconsidered all circumstances, I rode to Salt River, where he was then residing, and finally agreed to join his party. I deter- mined, therefore, on giving immediately orders for the building of my waggon. At the same time, it was recommended to me to hire, for my waggon-driver, a Hottentot named Jan Tamboer, who, having been as far as Litakun, would be found to be a useful and trust- worthy man, and who, as I was informed, was living somewhere in the vicinity of Cape Town. March 14th. After many enquiries, I at last learnt that this Hottentot had enlisted into the Cape regiment, and was at this time at the camp at Wynberg. This gave me another opportunity of enjoying the scenery along that road, certainly the most beau- tiful ride within that distance of Cape Town. ‘This ride was rendered more than usually pleasant, by the extraordinary clear- ness of the atmosphere, which had the curious effect of making distant objects appear, comparatively, quite near: the Stellenbosch and Hottentot-Holland mountains, though twenty-seven miles dis- tant, seemed to be not more than three miles from us; and Table Mountain might have been fancied almost close over our heads. The clefts and divisions of the rocks, were as plain and distinct as if viewed through a telescope. This phenomenon was, perhaps, the effect of the south-easter, which had been blowing with great vio- lence during the two preceding days; and, as I have observed a similar kind of effect from a continued heavy rain, succeeded by a cold and cloudless day, it may possibly be explained by the sup- position, that these two causes operate in clearing the air of all haze and imperceptible vapors ; notwithstanding the contrary opinion, that moisture produces transparency, and that the densest haze is ob- served in calm hot days. But that opinion is applicable only to solid bodies; and from this it can only be inferred, that the heat of the day extracts the hazy vapour from the earth or sea, at a time when there is no current of air, which, if warmer, would dissipate, or, if colder, condense it. By the politeness of Dr. Glaeser, the surgeon of the regiment, K 66 ~ JAN TAMBOER.— HOTTENTOT SOLDIERS. 14 Mar. the Hottentot was found, and brought to me. Even at first sight I was much pleased with his appearance, and his countenance seemed expressive of good qualities. When the object of my enquiries was explained to him, he answered my questions with unusual alacrity ; and, giving us to understand how much he was rejoiced at the pros- pect of again leading a life of travelling, he instantly declared his readiness to engage himself in my service for the whole journey. Thus much being settled to my wishes, nothing remained but to obtain his discharge from the regiment; an affair which did not pro- mise to be equally easy of accomplishment, it being feared, that, to deprive the regiment of a man of so good a character, would be ob- jectionable. Nothing, however, could be done at present, as it seemed necessary, for this purpose, to wait till the Governor’s return from a tour through part of the colony. While waiting till Jan Tamboer could be found, I amused my- self in making two drawings of the Camp. During this employment, two naked Hottentot boys, on my giving them a little encouragement, came and seated themselves on the ground by my side, though not without some shyness. A Hottentot soldier, also, approached from curiosity; and, not being then on duty, was indulging himself in going quite undrest, except with a pair of trowsers. He told me he had been in the regiment five years, and liked a military life very well; but added, that many others complained of being thus compelled to be, as he expressed himself, so exact and regular in all they did, and that they began to repent of having enlisted themselves. To me, almost every thing truly African was interesting ; and nothing gratified these feelings more than an opportunity of observing and conversing with the Hottentots, a race of men whose character and history, as given by the romantic pen of Le Vaillant, had made on my mind, even in my earliest days, many pleasing impressions, which now revived with all their warmth, whenever I chanced to meet any of these men. From this train of ideas, I was summoned to the hut of one of the officers, to see a tame lion. ‘This object, instead of interrupting my reflections, added considerably to the lively feelings they had created, by reminding me that I was now in the country where these 1811. TAME LION. —KERSTENBOSCH. 67 formidable animals roam at liberty in their native plains; and this circumstance lent a peculiar interest to the sight. As the animal was only nine months old, its tameness might yet be considered as problematical ; and it was not unlikely that it would assume its natural ferocity, as soon as it should have attained its full size and strength: for the lion in the Cape Town menagerie, which is now so ferocious, was, when very young, so tame and tractable, that Governor Jansens suffered it to run loose about the house ; but, before it was full-grown, several indications of its dangerous nature were observed, and the _ prudent precaution, of putting it into a place of security, was imme- diately taken. The present animal allowed any one to play with it, and did not appear to be in the least degree vicious. It was taken, together with a lioness whelp, when but a few days old, from a lioness which had been shot in a distant part of the colony. Here I also saw a Cape baboon, which was as tame and familiar as such creatures generally are, but not sufficiently so to be trusted without a chain. On taking leave of Wynberg and its beautiful scenery, Dr. Glae- ser and Mr. Stockenstrom accompanied us a short-distance, for the purpose of showing us a road from which I might have a view of Kerstenbosch ; and, that I might take the advantage of this opportunity to botanize over new ground, we went on foot, while two Hottentot soldiers led our horses. This road had been but newly cut through a pleasant coppice, containing a great variety of shrubs, and many large silver-trees. Here I found several plants which I had never met with before. * * These were, — Penea acuta. Th. . Protea grandiflora Morea gladiata Anthericum graminifolium, and some others. On the same spot may be found — Brunia nodiflora Anthospermum Aithiopicum Cliffortia ilicifolia Aristea bracteata. Pers. Rhus villosum Cluytia polygonoides ? 68 BEAUTIFUL SCENERY. 14 Mar. Our walk conducted us to a high part of the hill of Wynberg, which overlooks Kerstenbosch, a beautiful estate belonging to Govern- ment. The view from this spot, and, indeed, all the scenery around, is the most picturesque of any I had seen in the vicinity of Cape Town. The beauties here displayed to the eye could scarcely be represented by the most skilful pencil; for this landscape possessed a character that would require the combined talents of a Claude and a Both: but at this hour, the harmonious effect of light and shade, with the enchanting appearance of the foliage in the foreground, and the tone of the middle distances, were altogether far beyond the painter’s art. The objects immediately surrounding us, were purely sylvan; a blue extent of distance terminated the landscape both in front and on the right. To the left, the noble Table Mountain rose in all its grandeur, crowned with rocks, and displaying, in the broad ravines that de- scended its side, the rich colouring of some inaccessible woods, the growth, perhaps, of centuries. The enormous and lengthened sha- dow of Table Mountain and Devil’s Mountain, stretched far over the Flats, and seemed to touch the foot of Tygerberg. The last beams of the sun, gleaming over the rich, varied, and extensive prospect, laid on the warm finishing lights, in masterly and inimitable touches. In whatever shape her works appear to us, Nature exhibits nothing defective; whether we view her in the mechanism of animated bodies, in the structure of vegetables, in the laws of the globe we inhabit, or in the combination, beauty, and fitness of all that adorns its surface. Here I beheld her perfection in the sweet harmony of soft colors and tints of every gradation, speaking a language which all may under- stand, transfusing into the soul a delight which all may enjoy, and which never fails, at least for the time, to smother every uneasy sens- ation of the mind. Senecio rigidus ? Echium glabrum Gnaphalium nudifolium Scabiosa rigida Rhus rosmarinifolium Phylica stipularis Roella ciliata Gnaphalium ? umbellatum 1811. THE SILVER-TREE. 69 After some time spent in admiring the charming scene, I quit- ted it with regret; but, the setting sun reminding us of home, we took leave of our friends, and, mounting our horses, pursued our ride during the quiet light of evening. MN > { 4 Aly sm n\ ) 4 \ ‘a Mk q(t) 6g Ww | ep A Sw s Wag i We Zi CHAPTER III. A SKETCH OF CAPE TOWN AND THE COLONY, Ir may, perhaps, conduce to the purpose of the narrative, if in this place be drawn the outlines of a view of Cape Town, and of the Colony in general. They may be useful, as giving some general no- tions which may render the peculiarities of this settlement, and those allusions to local circumstances and customs which frequently recur in the course of this journal more clear and intelligible. Nothing can be neater, or more pleasant, than the appearance which this town presents, spreading over the valley, from the sea- shore towards the mountains on each side. It contains more than twenty streets, all of which, intersecting at right angles, A GENERAL VIEW OF THE COLONY. 71 run, either in a north-westerly direction parallel to the strand, or south-westerly from the sea towards Table Mountain. These streets, though not paved, are kept always in excellent order, and derive an agreeable freshness from trees of oak and pinaster, planted here and there on either side. The houses are built of brick, and faced with a stucco of lime: they are decorated in front with cornices and many architectural ornaments, and frequently with figures both in high and low relief. In front of each house, and of the same length, is a paved platform, usually eight or ten feet wide, and raised, commonly, from two to four feet above the level of the street. It is ascended by steps, and has generally a seat at each end, as may be seen in the engraving * at the head of this chapter. This platform is called the Stoep (step); and here the inhabitants fre- quently walk or sit, in the cool of the evening, and often at other times, to enjoy the air, or to converse with passing friends. The roofs are flat, and nearly horizontal, having no greater in- clination than just sufficient to throw off the rain-water. They form a terrace very commodious for walking on, and are made with strong beams extending from wall to wall ; over which stout planks are laid, and upon these, a thin pavement of bricks, well covered with stucco. There is no other lime than that which is made by burning shells, chiefly muscles, which are collected along the sea-shore. The win- dows are very large; but the panes of glass are small. Beams and floors of the teak-wood of India are not uncommon ; but the greatest part of the timber used in building, and, indeed, for every other pur- * This engraving represents a small part of Strand-street, as viewed from the house adjoining the Lutheran church, looking southward. It may be considered as showing the character of the ordinary buildings of the town; but must not be taken as a specimen of the best houses. On the left are two with thatched roofs; and\in these the earlier style of building may be seen. The figure with two baskets suspended from the ends of a pole, exhibits the manner in which the Malays and slaves carry about for sale fruit, fish, vege- tables, and various goods. The opening by the side of the highest house, is Loop-street. The Devil’s Mountain, seen at a great elevation above the tops of the houses, backs this view, but is omitted in the engraving. 72 A SKETCH OF CAPE TOWN, pose, is the Geel-hout * (Yellow-wood), and the Stink-hout + (Stink- wood). The latter is a handsome wood, and resembles mahogany, both in color and quality. Chairs, tables, and other furniture, are made of it: though a preference is given to European goods; and these are to be seen in the houses of the more opulent. The yellow- wood is not unlike deal, but is inferior to it, as possessing no resin- ous quality. | On account of the mildness of the Cape winters, fire-places are nowhere seen, excepting in the kitchens. Within, the houses have, to an eye accustomed to the elegant decorations and furniture of — an English apartment, the appearance of a. want of comfort ; and, not having a plaistered ceiling, the bare joists and floor above, give them the look of an unfinished building: but the loftiness and size of the rooms render them respectable, and contribute greatly to their cool- ness in the summer. The houses, even of the poorer class of inha- bitants, have, outwardly, a neat and architectural form. Carpets are seldom used ; and the reason assigned for this is, that they afford, in this, as in all warm climates, a harbour to insects. It is remarkable, that one of the finest situations in the town, is occupied by buildings of the most inferior description : the beach, with a full view of the bay and shipping, would seem to be a site worthy of some elegant houses, and of a handsome terrace; which, being the first objects to meet the eye of a stranger on entering the bay, would considerably strengthen the favourable impression of the respect- ' ability of the town. | There are two churches; one for the Reformed or Calvinistic * From two species of Podocarpus, one of which is the Taxus elongata of Linn. + Laurus bullata. B. Catal. Geog. 5409. Folia longius petiolata ovata acuminata, bulla in axillis venarum subtus aperté: racemi florum foliis breviores. Our present Under-secretary to the Admiralty, who, it seems, aspires at being thought a botanist, is rather unlucky in the display he makes of his knowledge and learning: he says — «‘ The stinkhout is the native oak of Africa, and, I believe, the only species found on ‘that continent. It may, therefore, not improperly be called the Quercus Africana.” — Barrow’s Travels in Southern Africa, p. 134. He might with equal propriety tell us, that the Walnut is a species of Plum, and that ‘¢it might, therefore, not improperly be called” Prunus Barrowiana. AND GENERAL VIEW OF THE COLONY. 73 congregation, the established church of the Dutch government, and which is also used by the English for the performance of their service; the other was built by the Lutherans, the number of whom is very considerable. Besides these, there is a good-sized meeting- house, which is open to preachers of various denominations. The Malays have also a house dedicated to the Mahometan form of wor- ship, with a regular priest established and supported by themselves. This latter building is nothing more — a private dwelling-house, converted to that use. The Government-house is situated in the town, surrounded by plantations, in a garden consisting of several acres of ground laid out in avenues crossing each other at right angles, and thickly shaded by oaks. This garden is an exceedingly pleasant promenade during the heat of the day, and is always open to the public. The Stadhuis, or Burgher Senate-house, is a large, handsome building, appropriated to the transacting of public business of a civic nature. It stands in the middle of the town, on one side of the square called Groente Plein, in which'a daily market for vegetables is held. There is, on the north- ern side of the town, another square, called Boere Plein (Farmer’s Square), where the farmers used to assemble with their waggons, to dispose of their commodities ; but since my arrival in the colony, another boor-market has been established at the southern entrance to the town, and a market-house erected, at which every waggon, bringing a load of country produce, is obliged to halt, while proper officers take an account of every article they may have for sale, and, having ascertained the quantities of each, register them in books kept for that purpose. Here they are generally met by purchasers ; if not, they proceed into the town. The Castle is a large pentagonal fortress on the south-eastern, or inland side of the town, close to the water’s edge. It commands the jutty, or landing-place, and part. of Table Bay, and completely controls the only road between the town and country. On the north- western side of the castle is the Parade, a large oblong plain, sur- rounded by a walk shaded by pinasters and stone-pines, and enclosed by a wall and moat. Near the parade are the Barracks for the cavalry, L 74 A SKETCH OF CAPE TOWN, an extensive and ornamental building, begun in the year 1772, ori- ginally intended for an hospital ; and between this and the Castle is the Custom-house, built in 1813. Close to the entrance to the Govern- ment-garden, is a large and handsome building, completed in 1815, which contains the Court of Justice, the Secretary’s office, and most of the principal public offices. The Theatre is situated in the Boer Plein ; but was seldom used, as it depended chiefly on the perform- ance of amateurs. Cape Town possesses several other buildings ap- propriated to business of a public nature, such as may easily be supposed requisite for a large town and a considerable population. * The whole is protected, on the side of the land, by fortified Lines, extending trom the Devil’s Mountain to the sea-shore. The town is supplied with excellent water, which issues, in. several plen- tiful streams, from Table Mountain; and in 1813, iron pipes, sent from England, were laid down, for the purpose of conducting a sup- ply of it to every street. On the ‘ Lion’s Rump’ is a signal-post and look-out station, where, by hoisting certain numbers of black balls, immediate notice is given of all ships seen in the offing. There is also a telegraphic communication between Cape Town and Simon’s Town in False Bay, the place of rendezvous of all ships of war belonging to the Cape station. Southward of Cape Town, a great number of elegant villas are scattered about between vineyards, plantations, and groves of trees ; and the country, as far as Rondebosch, Wynberg, and Constantia, is really delightful, and, more than any other part of the colony, resembles het rich cultivated scenery of England. That which may be called the Peninsula of the Cape of Gent - Hope, includes Cape Town, Camps Bay, Hout Bay, and Simon’s Town, and consists of an irregular range of mountains, commencing at the Lion’s Rump, and terminating at Cape Point; which last is the Cape * Other edifices have since been erected; particularly the Exchange, built by the merchants of Cape Town, and founded on 25th August, 1819; and the Butcher’s Hall, another building, equally convenient for business, was added in the following year. AND GENERAL VIEW OF THE COLONY. "5 of Good Hope Proper, or Cabo Tormentoso, discovered by Bartholo- meo Diaz, in the year 1487, and doubled by Vasco de Gama, in 1497. This Peninsula is connected with the mainland, by a wide, flat, sandy isthmus, of about twelve or thirteen English miles in breadth, separating False Bay from Table Bay. The shape and extent of the colony may be more easily known by an inspection of the map, than by description. But, in an agricul- tural view, great deductions should be made from its size; as many parts. of it are barren and uninhabitable from want of water. Such parts are called karré, (a Hottentot word signifying dry); some of them are of great extent, being not less than 50 miles across in the narrowest part. ‘They are very level, and, though destitute of grass, are generally covered with short stunted bushes and succulent plants. In the rainy season, however, a more luxuriant vegetation springs up ; and at this time the neighbouring boors remove with their flocks, and take up a temporary residence in these plains, until drought again obliges them to return home. The colony, which is intersected in various directions by several ranges of high mountains, is divided into eleven districts*, of very unequal sizes: these are the districts of the Cape, of Stellenbosch, Caledon, Tulbagh, Clanwilham, Swellendam, George, Uitenhage, Graaffreynét, Albany, and the Tarka ; and to give some idea of their situation, they are here enumerated in the order of their distance from Cape Town, the Tarka being the most distant. Each is placed under the superintendance of either a Landdrost or a deputy landdrost, who administers the government, in most respects, as the representative of the governor; and it is through him that all laws, proclamations, and inferior regulations, are carried into effect. The districts of Caledon, Clanwilliam, Albany, and the Tarka, are under the deputy-landdrosts of Swellendam, Tulbagh, Uitenhage, and Graaff- reynet, respectively. ach district is subdivided into a number of * This is the division which existed at the date of these Travels; but various sub- divisions into new districts have since been made by the government. LZ "6 A SKETCH OF CAPE TOWN, Veld-cornetcies, in which the duty of the Veld-cornet, (or F ield-cornet,) is to put in execution all orders from the landdrost, to whom he is more immediately accountable. The farms are of great extent, especially those in the distant dis- tricts ; they comprise a circular area of three miles in diameter, and from their great extent are never enclosed. Corn might be produced in great abundance, but the scarcity of labourers, and the want of a market within a moderate journey, are the causes of no more being grown by the farmers, who live beyond a certain distance from the villages, than is found sufficient for the annual consumption of their own families. * The only mode of travelling is either on horseback, or in wag- gons drawn by horses or oxen. A representation of the ordinary waggon of the country, with the usual team of oxen and mode of driving, is given in the vignette at the end of this chapter. Eu- ropean carriages are used only in Cape Town and its vicinity, nor is there any public conveyance. except the Bolderwagen (stage- waggon, to Stellenbosch. A regular post conveys letters to each of the villages ; Graaffreynet, one of the most distant, receives them from Cape Town in seven or fourteen days, according to the state of the rivers and roads. As there are no inns, the traveller must de- pend on the uncertain accommodation of farm-houses on the road, unless he carry his provisions and bedding with him, which is the most usual practice. The only villages in the colony, (1815,) are those of Stellenbosch, _ founded in 1670; Graaffreynet, in 1786 ; Swellendam, in 1745; Tul- bagh, in 1804; Uitenhage, in 1804 ; Paarl ; Simon’s Town ; Zwartland, which contains little more than the church, in 1801; George, in 1812; Caledon, in 1810; and Grahamstown, in 1811; here enumerated in the order of their size. And the only churches, (excepting those in Cape. Town,) are at Stellenbosch, Swellendam, Paarl, Zwartland, Graaffrey- net, Tulbagh, and Caledon, in the order of their date; that of Caledon ' * A more particular view of the colony, as applicable to the case of new settlers, may be seen in a small pamphlet, entitled ‘‘ Hints on Emigration to the Cape of Good Hope.” AND GENERAL VIEW OF THE COLONY. ru not having been built before the year 1814, at which time the churches _ at Uitenhage and George town were not yet begun. Once in every year, a deputation of members of the court of justice, called the «“ Commission of Justice,” perform the circuit of the Drostdies, (resi- dences of the landdrosts), for the purpose of hearing and determining all trials or lawsuits which may be brought before them. The inhabitants of these districts consist principally of Dutch, who first, under Van Riebeck, began to establish themselves at Cape Town, in 1651. A large proportion are of German origin ; and between the years 1680 and 1690, a considerable number of French families settled at the Cape of Good Hope, driven thither by the persecutions to which Protestants were, at that time, sub- jected in France. There are also many of Swedish or Danish origin. As settlers and colonists, the number of British in the different dis- tricts was, at this time, extremely small; and might, in a general view, be left out of the account. The Hottentots of the colony are much less numerous than the Whites; but, if their number be added to that of the slaves, the black population will considerably preponderate. All the inhabit- ants use the Dutch language, and many slaves and Hottentots speak no other. The nations which border on the colony, are the Na- maqua Hottentots, on the north-west ; the Bushmen Hottentots, on the north and north-east ; and the Kosas or Caffres on the east. The Cape Settlement was taken by the English, for the first time, in the year 1796; but, on peace being concluded between the two nations, it was restored to the Dutch in February 1803. War soon afterwards breaking out, it was again taken by the English, on the 8th of January, 1806; and by the last treaty of peace, in 1815, has been finally ceded to Great Britain. Cape Town, as well as the rest of the colony, is inhabited by peo- ple of various origins, the chief part of whom are also Dutch, who, in respect to number, are surpassed by the slaves. These latter are, for the greater part, Malays, and natives of Madagascar, and of the country adjoining Mozambique. The Hottentots, preferring a country life, are generally averse from engaging in the service of masters living whe .. A SKETCH OF CAPE TOWN, in the towns, and consequently but few of that nation are seen there. In Cape Town the English are numerous, and are principally of the military and mercantile classes. Many situations of importance are filled by the native Dutch, in a manner creditable to themselves and advantageous.to government. Justice continues to be administered according to the Dutch law, and causes are pleaded in that language in writing. Trials by jury, and oral pleading, are as yet unknown in these courts ; although the introduction of them, together with the English law modified ac- cording to local circumstances, would be no more than a very natural innovation, in a country now become permanently a British territory ; and would seem a measure justly due to the habits and feelings of the British portion of its inhabitants, whose numbers are now likely to become sufficiently important to claim for them the privilege of being tried by their own laws. The Fiscal, being the head of the police and the sitting magistrate, a great variety of business is daily transacted at his office. The Cape is also the seat of a Vice-admiralty court. Proclamations, and all orders and regulations of a civil or financial nature, are issued from the colonial secretary’s office, and officially made known in the Cape Town Gazette, published every Saturday. This paper rarely contains any information, excepting that which may be derived from proclamations, official notices, and advertise- ments of auctions. It might, however, be rendered the vehicle of valuable knowledge to the colonists ; and it is much to be regretted that so ready an opportunity should have been hitherto neglected, of conveying to every part of the country, useful information, in the way of colonial improvement. The only money in general circulation, is small printed and countersigned pieces of paper, bearing value from the trifling sum of one schelling, or sixpence currency, upwards to five hun- dred rix-dollars each. The only current coin, are English penny- pieces, which here pass for the value of two pence, and are called dubbeltjes. Spanish dollars are used in Cape ‘Town, rather as bul- lion than as coin; their value varying according to the rate of ex- AND GENERAL VIEW OF THE COLONY. 79 change. Accounts are kept in rix-dollars, schellings, and stivers ; although the value of estates and possessions is often rated in guilders, three of which make a rix-dollar.. Six stivers are equal to one schelling, and eight schellings to one rix-dollar or four shillings currency ; but the value of this currency is excessively reduced by the rate of exchange, which, in 1810, was 33 per cent. in favour of England; and has, since that time, gradually risen to above 120. This enormous premium for bills on England, is attributable to the want of exportable colonial produce ; wine being the only staple com- modity, excepting a few hides, some whale-oil, and an inconsiderable quantity of ivory, ostrich feathers, gum-aloés, argol, and a few other articles of little weight in the scale of general commerce. The islands of St. Helena and Mauritius take from the colony constant and large supplies of live-stock, wine, grain, and various provisions. The consumption at the Cape, of goods. of British manufacture, on which there is a duty of 3 per cent., is to a considerable amount ; but the high price at which they are sold is the necessary and natural consequence of the high rate of exchange, nor can it be otherwise, till the aggregate value of the exports shall approximate, far more than at present, to that of the imports. The usual mode by which the merchants effect the sale of their investments, is. public auction ; and in this manner estates also, and property of every description are sold ; consequently vendues or auctions happen daily, and often several in a day. The price of provisions is, comparatively with England, exceed- ingly low ; labour, house-rent, and fire-wood, constitute a large pro- portion of the expenses of living at Cape Town. Coals are here unknown, except by small quantities, sometimes landed from the ships. The town is plentifully supplied with fish, of which a great variety are caught in the surrounding sea; fresh-water fish, however, is so rare, that I do not recollect having seen at table any, except eels; and these were regarded as a curiosity. Fruit and vegetables are abundant and cheap ; of the former the most common are oranges, lemons, grapes, melons, apples, pears, 86 A SKETCH OF CAPE TOWN, peaches, almonds, apricots, figs, walnuts, mulberries, quinces, ches- nuts, bananas or plantains, and guavas. Strawberries, plumbs, rasp- berries, and cherries, are met with only in the gardens of the curious; the last has hitherto been found to succeed nowhere but in. the divi- sion of the Cold Bokkeveld. For gooseberries and currants, the climate is considered to be too warm, while, on the other hand, it is thought too cold for ananas, mangoes, and most tropical fruits. Nearly all the common vegetables of Europe grow here in perfection. Wheat and barley are the grain most extensively cultivated ; the latter is the corn usually given to horses. A small quantity of rice, scarcely worth mentioning, although of a very. good quality, is grown along the western Elephant’s river. In Snéeuwberg (Sneeberg) and the Roggeveld, innumerable flocks of sheep are reared; and in these parts of the colony the greatest number of horses are bred. Very good soap and butter are brought from different districts ; but cheese is rarely made, the milk being thought too poor for that purpose. Tobacco is cultivated in every part of the colony, and is an article of such universal consump- tion, that it may here class among the necessaries of life, but has not yet been raised in quantities sufficient for exportation. Brandy, which is made from grapes or peaches, may, in regard to the great request in which it is held, rank next to tobacco in importance. The climate of the Cape is not only pleasant but is very fa- vorable to health. Lying in the southern. hemisphere, its seasons are the reverse of those in Europe; December and January being the hottest months, and June and July the coldest. The sun at noon being always in the north, causes the northern side of the mountains to be much hotter and dryer than the southern, which differs very perceptibly also in verdure, and luxuriance of vegetation. The appear- ance of the.starry sky is greatly different from that which it presents to an observer in Europe ; many constellations are here seen in a re- versed position. The well-known stars of Ursa Major are never seen at the Cape; but this loss is well compensated by some constel- lations and remarkably beautiful stars which must always remain in- visible to the inhabitants of England ; particularly Canopus, sc nar, AND GENERAL VIEW OF THE COLONY. 8] two in the feet of the Centaur, and the brilliant constellation of the Cross. The winter and spring are the most delightful part of the year ; the summer and autumn in the country along the coast, being con- stantly dry, and consequently a season when verdure almost disap- pears. In the districts remote from the sea, the wet season com- mences in the summer months, the rain falling in heavy showers, accompanied most frequently by lightning and thunder. Cape Town is subject to violent winds, and the dust of the streets, at such times, becomes extremely disagreeable. The degree of heat and cold varies in different parts of the country ; in Cape Town, the highest degree at which I observed the thermometer, was 102° of Fahrenheit’s (31°:1 of Reaumut’s: or 38°°8 of the Centigrade) scale in the shade ; but, during the warm season, it ranges between 80° and 90° F., (21° and 26° K., and 27° and 32° C.) In the winter it seldom sinks below 50° F. (8° R., 10° C.): ice is, how- ever, sometimes found on the top of Table Mountain ; and during a few days in every year, the summits of the Stellenbosch and Hot- tentot-Holland mountains are seen covered with snow. Cold Bok- keveld, as its name implies, is a country distinguished by a colder atmosphere ; and the same may be remarked of the Roggeveld, where I found the thermometer in August, so low as 26° F. (— 2°6 R., — 3°3 C.) But the coldest district is that called Snéewwberg, or the Snow Moun- tains, in which more particularly, a small and elevated table-land called Coudveld (Cold country), is considered by the boors to be the coldest spot in the whole colony: in many farms on Snéeuwberg, the summers are not warm enough to bring grapes and peaches to perfection. At a farm-house on these mountains, I was assured by the owner that snow falls often to the depth of a foot, remaining on the ground two or three days ; and that it has sometimes been seen as deep as two feet. As far as my own experience enables me to decide, it is the coldest region in Southern Africa. The hottest parts of the colony are to be found in those barren plains which are distinguished by the general appellation of Karré, and in the low arid lands situated towards the coast; but in such M 82 A GENERAL VIEW OF THE COLONY. places, the heat, being of a dry quality, is not so oppressive to bodily feeling as it would be in England at the same degree. The western districts are comparatively deficient in trees and water ; while those lying along the southern coast, beyond Zwellendam, to the furthest extent eastward, are, on the contrary, well-wooded, and abound in springs and rivulets; and it may justly be said that the countries of Auteniqualand and the Zuureveld are extremely beautiful. In short, the colony of the Cape of Good Hope, as part of the British dominions, may be considered an important and valuable possession ; not only in a political and commercial point of view, but also in the light of a territorial acquisition ; and, that any writer, who has seen the country, should assert otherwise, proves nothing more than his own want either of observation or of judgment. 4 CHAPTER IV. A RIDE THROUGH HOTTENTOT-HOLLAND TO THE WARM-BATH AT ZWARTEBERG. 2 As it was now certain that my final departure from Cape Town could not take place before the middle of May, there was sufficient time for a short excursion into the nearer districts of the colony. This, besides gratifying my curiosity, would be attended with the advantage of giving me, previously to my principal journey, some idea of the nature of the country ; and consequently, of enabling me to make my preparatory arrangements more judiciously, and to form a more correct estimate of what provision it would be necessary to make. In the present journey Mr. Polemann was both my companion and my guide, as it was proposed to direct our course through a part of the country with which he was acquainted. One of the objects which we had in view, was to pur- chase a couple of teams of oxen; because in the immediate vicinity of the town, there was little chance of meeting with any equal to the mM 2 84 EERSTE RIVER. 8 APRIL, labor of such an expedition, and wherein so much depended on the good qualities of these animals. April 8th. Our equipment consisted of a horse and a small port- manteau each, to which I added some requisites for drawing, and a few other instruments of little bulk and weight. Early in the morning we commenced our journey, and, passing Roodebloem and Salt-river, entered upon the Kaapsche Duinen, (or Cape Downs) and the Sandy Isthmus, the whole length of which lay in this day’s ride. The numberless tracks and roads by which it was traversed in every direction, made us often at a loss to decide which we should take ; but as the greater proportion of these lead to Hottentot-Holland Kloof, which we had always in sight, ice at a great distance, that beacon was our only guide. These downs are covered with bushes three or four fiset high, and the soil appeared to be everywhere the same as that which His already been noticed * ; a loose white sand, of a depth varying from one to five feet, with a substratum of hard clay. Springs of fresh water are very scarce on these flats ; but it is probable that by dig- ging through the clay, wells would supply a sufficient quantity to render them habitable. Here and there are scattered a few solitary huts of Hottentots, who earn a living by collecting fire-wood, or by attending such cattle as are kept on this miserable pasture, where they have no other sa eae than browzing on the hard dry shrubs and rushes. As we approached the Eerste river t (the First river) or the Stellenbosch river, as it is sometimes called, several picturesque scenes present themselves. Hillocks of pure, snow-white sand in the foreground, contrasted with, and backed by, the blue of the dis- tant lofty mountains, have a singular and pleasing effect. Having ridden all the forenoon over nothing but deep sands, and * See 31st January, at pages 53 and 54. + This would be more correctly written Eerste rivier, according to Dutch or- thography; but in this and in Srey like case it will, perhaps, be more convenient to use the English word river. 1811. HOTTENTOT-HOLLAND. 85 our horses beginning to grow weary, we halted about one o’clock at the Eerste river, at the house of an opulent farmer named Meyburg. Here we were immediately invited to take our seat at the family table, where we found several other travellers, who, in the same manner, had halted there merely with the intention of taking their dinner. This house, and many others along the roads most fre- quented, is seldom free from visitors of this kind, who often have but slight pretensions to any previous acquaintance with their hos- pitable host. At the Eerste river the sand downs cease, and are succeeded by a more fertile soil. Here we entered the level tract of country called Hottentot-Holland *, in the middle of which is a large grassy mountain called Schaapenberg (Sheep-hill). Our road now became very good and hard, and the country assumed a more rural appear- ance; with houses and farms, at short distances from each other, and several rivulets of good water. It is along these rivulets that the houses are generally situated; most of them being large white buildings of respectable appearance. This country produces good corn, and, with a proportionate increase of labouring population, would probably yield ten times its present produce. As we ad- vanced, False Bay came in view; and as day-light faded away, an atmospherical effect was produced on the mountains, by which they seemed to be nearer to us than they really were. We continued the last hour of our ride by moonlight, and arrived at the place called For- tuintje, belonging to a gentleman named Watermeyer, where his ser- vant, an Englishman, in consequence of a letter we brought from him, provided us with a supper and good beds. This place is not more than a moderate walk from Vischer’s-hoek (Fishermen’s corner), * In Dutch this word would be more correctly written Hottentotsch Holland ; but it has been thought unnecessary in this, and in similar cases, to adhere rigidly to the proper orthography ; conceiving it to be more convenient to adopt an Anglicised mode of writing such words as do not differ much in the two languages. This name, in English, might be written more strictly Hottentottish Holland ; but the term Hottentots’ Holland is an erroneous interpretation of the name. . 86 HOTTENTOT-HOLLAND PASS. —9 ApriL, the north-eastern angle of False Bay, whence it is readily supplied with excellent fish. _ 9th. After an early breakfast, we mounted our doin and almost immediately commenced the ascent which leads to the pass called Hottentot-Holland Kloof. At the first part of it, the road is not very steep, but as soon as the traveller enters the hollow way of the Roode Hoogte* (the Red Heights,) the difficulty of the ascent begins. This is a lower hill forming the foot of the mountain, and composed of a hard, barren, reddish, clayey, ferruginous earth, into which the road, towards its summit, is' cut down to the depth of, perhaps, twenty feet. After this he has to climb the rocky mountain itself, and will not, without some suprise, behold loaded waggons as- cending and descending so steep and frightful a road; nor will he, without a compassionate feeling for the oxen, witness their toil and labor, carried to the very utmost of their strength : sometimes en- couraged by good words, at other times terrified into exertion by the blows of the shambok, the loud crack of the whip, the smart of its lash, or the whoop and noisy clamour of the boor and his Hotten- tots. All this cannot be entirely avoided; and it is alone the peril- ous nature of such passes, which reduces the boor to the necessity of acting with harshness towards these useful animals: in general, the farmer knows too well the value of his oxen, wantonly to ill- treat them. The danger in which both oxen and waggon are placed while passing the mountains, renders the utmost care and vigilance indispensable. For, should they become restive, and deviate from the proper road, or obstinately refuse to draw, the waggon would be thrown down the precipice, dragging them, and perhaps the driver also, along with it to inevitable destruction. We met several wag- gons coming down, all of which were heavily laden. The shambok, here mentioned, is a strip, three feet or more in length, of the hide either of a hippopotamus or of a rhinoceros, * Which words are, according to the Cape dialect, pronounced as an » Englishman would read Roéy Hoaghter. 1811. SHAMBOKS.— AN UNCIVIL BOOR. 97 rounded to the thickness of a man’s finger, and tapering to the top. This is universally used in the colony for a horsewhip, and is much more durable than the whips of European manufacture. The sham- bok employed by waggon-drivers, and called Agter-os shambok, (or the shambok for managing the after pair of oxen) is of the same form as the other, but of double the length, and as much thicker as the hide will admit of. This manufacture is not peculiar to the Cape; it is well known in Northern Africa, and forms an article of trade under the name of Corbage. From the top of the pass there is an extensive and very fine view of the Isthmus, False Bay, and of the whole range of mountains from the Lion’s Head to Cape Point. The great number of new and beautiful plants which I saw on this mountain, induced me to collect a bundle of specimens, although I had no means of preserving, nor even of carrying with me, a collection of so much bulk. The most strikingly beautiful then in flower were Erica taxifolia and Erica fascicularis: many kinds of Protea, particularly Protea spe- ciosa; together with Protea cordata, a very singular species, of a growth nearly herbaceous. At Steenbraassem (Stonebream) river, which runs close by the eastern side of the Kloof, finding some. wag- gons at outspan, we asked the favor of one of the boors* to leave my bundle at Fortuintje, which lay in his road ; but received a direct refusal. I applied to one of his Hottentots, offering him some money for his trouble; but having observed his baas (master) deny me the same favor, he dared not act contrary to him, and gave me also a refusal. The baas, however, seeing me offer the money, called out to the Hottentot, “* Neem de geld,” + (take the money). This he immediately did, and promised to deliver the flowers safely, together with a note hastily written, requesting that they might be sent to Cape Town; but nothing after this was heard of my plants, nor were * This word is used for signifying the Dutch farmers, and is, on every occasion, to be taken in that sense only ; being a substitute for the Duth word doer (farmer). + Written according to the pronunciation and dialect of the country districts. 88, THE GREAT MOUNTAIN-PASSES. 9 APRIL, they ever received at Fortuintje, having, most probably, been thrown away the moment after we rode off. * Having passed the Kloof, I was surprized to find so little descent on the eastern side: here the country must, therefore, lie at a great elevation above Hottentot-Holland. The districts situated, with respect to the metropolis, cya these mountains, and also their inhabitants and produce, are often distinguished in a general way by the word overbergsch (tramontane.) Over the whole colony the words boven (upper), and bovenland, are — used to signify those parts of it which are nearer to Cape ‘Town, and often Cape Town itself; while onder (under), and onderveld, are the terms applied in contradistinction. These are colonial expressions in constant use in a great variety of cases, frequently even for indi- cating only the situation of a neighbouring farm-house. This pass, and two or three others farther northward in the same chain of mountains, may be regarded as the great portals by which the interior of Africa may be entered on the side of the Cape of Good Hope; the country on the west of this range being as it were only the vestibule. The Hottentot-Holland and Roodezand Kloofs are the two principal passes, by which waggons cross these mountains : the former leading to all the districts lying along the southern coast, as . Swellendam, George, Uitenhage, and Albany; and the latter to the Tarka, Graaffreynét, the Karro, and Roggeveld. The Elands Kloof, Pikeniérs Kloof, and Kardotws Kloof, (lied passes of inferior note, are * This pass was more carefully investigated on a subsequent occasion (March 29. 1815); and among the plants collected at that time, the following, already well known to botanists, may here be noticed: Olea Capensis Protea speciosa Phylica buxifolia Hydrocotyle tridentata Erica taxifolia Cliffortia trifoliata Aulax umbellata Lobelia pinifolia Pelargonium angulosum Protea sceptrum-Gustavianum, of Sparrman Rhus cuneifolium Erica glutinosa Erica Plukenetii Erica fascicularis. Brunia nodiflora 1811. PALMIET RIVER.—DARK WATERS, 89 northward of Roodezand ; and besides these, several others divide the great ranges of mountains which separate the southern coast from the regions of the interior. Of these the principal are, the Hew river Kloof, Kokman’s or Kogman’s Kloof, Platte Kloof, Attaquas Kloof, and the Duivels-Kop ; to. which may be added the dangerous and little frequented pass of the Keurbooms river. * As we rode along, the beautiful pink flowers of Penea squamosa caught my eye; and I once or twice dismounted to pluck Retzia spi- cata, Erica Massoni, Erica axillaris, and Protea (Spatalla of Salisbury) incurva. Retzia spicata is a plant of singular growth, about three or four feet high, with a few upright, undivided branches, thickly clothed with stiff, long, narrow leaves, between which its tubular, orange-colored flowers just appear; but they are not very conspi- cuous at a distance. We soon afterwards crossed the Palmiet river, whose waters, like the greatest number of those which take their rise from the southern side of the great southern range of mountains, were of a brown color resembling coffee, but at the same time clear and whole- some. This is probably to be attributed to the decayed vegetable matter, which is observable in greater quantity on the southern than on the northern side of these mountains; and which gives to all these waters a color exactly the same as that which is imparted by peat and bog-mould. After running some distance from the moun- tains, they lose the brown tincture, and gradually change to a more usual complexion, by the accession of rivulets formed in the plains. The boors believe this brownness to be caused by the great quantity of Palmite (Palmiet), which every where grows in these streams ; but, however much they may assist in producing this effect, they are certainly not the chief cause ; since I have observed them to be thus coloured, before they reach the foot of the mountains, and far above where the Palmite begins to grow. * Since my departure from the Cape, a convenient waggon-road has been made over the mountains near the Paarl, at a place called Du Tott’s Kloof, which till then was merely a foot-path. N 90 ESTIMATION OF DISTANCES IN TRAVELLING. 9 ApRiL, This greater accumulation of vegetable matter on the southern side, is very easily and naturally accounted for, by the relative position of the sun in this hemisphere; which shining at noon, always in the north, occasions the northern side of these moun- tains, as far as I have had an opportunity of observing, to be always the more arid, and producing plants and herbage of Jess luxuriant growth ; while, on the contrary, the southern side, being constantly more shaded, and having a cooler aspect, cherishes a rich and ver- dant. vegetation. Numerous rivulets pour down its ravines, and support, in many places, forests of timber trees, whose beautiful verdure is preserved through the whole year by the moist atmo- sphere which these streamlets, together with shade and shelter, create. From the proximity of these mountains to the sea, the moisture of marine air may perhaps contribute its influence in pro- ducing these effects ; yet I have remarked the same circumstance in mountains that are distant from the coast a whole degree of latitude, or 90 English miles.* Such a color gives to these streams an unpleasant, forbidding aspect ; and the first sight of them recalls to mind the dark waters of one of the infernal rivers : Cocytus sinu atro. Although a small quantity in a glass vessel, appear limpid and nearly colourless, yet, at a depth of three feet, the bottom of a river. is not visible, and the blackness of the stream gives the appearance of an unfathomable pool. This is a disagreeable, and an inconvenience not merely ideal; for, in fording such rivers, a traveller is hereby prevented from seeing at the bottom the many large stones and holes, which, if not avoided, sometimes occasion serious accidents. * In allowing 90 miles of travelling to a degree, instead of 693, which is its measure in a straight line, a result will be obtained much nearer to the truth and more applicable to practical purposes, than that obtained by the usual measurement over the face of a map ; which last seems to be the method resorted to by those who have hitherto given the dimen- sions and distances of places in this colony. From the experiments and calculations made in the course of four years’ travelling in Southern Africa, I have found the irregularity and winding of the roads, and the nature of the surface of this country, to require, on an average, a reduction of two-ninths of the distance travelled, to obtain the real horizontal distance in a straight line. 1811. THE PALMITE.— AN INNKEEPER. 9] Most of the rivers which we passed in this excursion, are choked up with the plant called Palmiet * by the colonists, and from which this one derives its name. Some notion of the appearance of these plants, may be gained by imagining a vast number of ananas, or pine- apple plants, without fruit, so thickly crowded together as to cover the sides and even the middle of the stream, standing seldom higher than three or four feet above the surface, but generally under water whenever the river swells above its ordinary height. The stems which support them are of the thickness of a man’s arm ; black, and of a very tough and spongy substance ; generally simple, though not rarely divided into one or two branches. They rise up from the bottom, not often in an upright posture, but inclined by the force of the current. They have very much the erowth of Dragon-trees, (Dracena), or of some palms, from which latter resemblance they have obtained their name. A little further on, we came to the house of a man who had formerly been a non-commissioned officer of dragoons in the Dutch service, and who now endeavoured to support himself and his family, by supplying the passing traveller with provisions and the produce of his little garden. As this might in some respects be considered an inn, we rode up to the door without hesitation, and were met by a man, whose grotesque appearance fixed our attention ; lame in one leg, he hobbled towards us on a crutch, while an enormous broad- brimmed black felt hat overshadowed his whole body, like an umbrella, of which his spare figure might represent the stick. We dismounted, but soon discovered that we had arrived at an unlucky hour, as our host declared that at that moment he had nothing in the house to eat. However, after some consultation with them, he desired his daughters to place before us some bread, butter, Spanish * This is the Juncus serratus of Thunberg, and with that genus it agrees in fructifi- cation ; yet its appearance and habit, together with its gigantic size, would rather refer it to some other family. Hitherto, however, I have not been able to discover any character which might authorize its separation, unless three sessile stigmata can be considered as a sufficient generic difference. nN 2 hod 92 HOUHOEK. — OUTSPAN PLACES. 9, 10 APRIL, radishes, eggs, and wine. Fritje, his youngest, performed the duties of handmaid, and by her readiness and attention, made us excuse the deficiencies of the meal. Another visitor,a meagre old man, coming in just at this time, partook with us. He was on his way to Uiten- hage, a place not less distant than 700 miles. Such long and laborious journeys are not thought much of by the boors; the nature of their population, thin and widely scattered, has taught them to regard a colonist dwelling at the distance of ten miles, as a near neighbour. After leaving this house, we came to a short, but rugged range of mountains, where, by an execrable road, we ascended the rocky pass of Groote Houhoek, or Houwhoek.* This place is much dreaded by those who have to pass it in waggons: though not so steep, it is more difficult than the Hottentot-Holland Kloof; and, being in the great eastern road, cannot be avoided, unless by the Kleine (Little) Howwhoek, another pass in the same range, which, how- ever, is said to be even worse than this. We passed several waggons at uitspan, and met others, heavily Jaden with country produce, proceeding to Cape Town; and, among them, some bringing timber from Auteniqualand. Were but the same degree of labor and perseverance applied to the repairing and improving of the roads, which is daily wasted in dragging over-land to the Cape these ponderous loads of planks and beams, which in the end yield but a poor return for so much trouble, the boors would be amply repaid by the facility and dispatch with which their journeys would be performed. These witspan, or outspan places, are, in fact, the caravanserays of the Cape; and the varied groups-of travellers, with their waggons and oxen, which are frequently seen at such places, taking their meals under shade of the bushes, interest much by the simplicity and novelty of the scene. These parties appeared often to consist of whole families ; and women and children, Hottentots, slaves, and * This word has been spelt in various ways, according to its supposed etymon; Houwwhoek, implying “ Hewing-corner,” Houdhoek, * Holdfast-corner,” or Houthoek, ‘¢ Wood-corner.” 1811. KNOFLOOKS KRAAL.—BOT RIVER. 93 dogs, assembled round their fire, presented a curious and amusing sight. We crossed the Knéflooks Kraal (Garlic Kraal) river, an incon- siderable stream, and also a branch of the Bot (Flounder ?) river. It was dark when we arrived at the latter, and this rendered it neces- sary to proceed cautiously in fording it, especially as a late flood had swept away a part of its banks, and covered its bed with large stones. On the left bank stood a farm-house, the residence of Vaasje (or Ser- vaas) Kok, a man with whom my fellow-traveller had some acquaint- ance. Here, then, we agreed to take up our quarters for the night ; and on entering his house, were received in a very friendly and hos- pitable manner. 10th. In the morning, to amuse us, we were shown the garden, which, for the country districts, might be considered as one of the best, as it produced, besides various fruits, several kinds of culinary vegetables. ‘Turmeric *, under the name of Bori, was growing luxu- riantly, and in full bloom ; but its pale heads of flowers are unobserv- able, until sought for under the leaves close to the ground. The roots of this, reduced to powder, form an indispensable ingredient in curry, a dish much eaten in every part of the colony. I gathered a handful of wild plants which grew about this spot +; and saw abun- dant reason for regretting my want of convenience for preserving specimens of the numerous kinds which we passed during our ride. Two light-dragoons. of the 21st regiment were stationed here, and, in the same manner, others also, at certain distances along the road, for the purpose of forwarding despatches to and from the Governor, who was at this time on an excursion to Pletten- berg’s Bay. By such an arrangement, intelligence may be conveyed with a degree of expedition equal to that of an English mail ; but, i * Curcuma longa, Linn. + Among them were, — Leucospermum bucifolium Aulax umbellata Leucodendrum concolor Calendula fruticosa Mimetes cucullata Rhus rosmarinifolium. 04 WILD ELDER.— BOONTJES KRAAL. 10 ApRiIn, in forwarding letters by the ordinary Cape post, an unnecessary length of time is often lost at the different post-houses on the road ; and, in that season when the rivers are suddenly swelled by the rains, the letter-bags, from want of bridges or ferry-boats, are de- tained two or three days on, what the boors very expressively term, “ the wrong side” of the river. Early in the forenoon we took leave of this hospitable farmer, and set out for the Hot Baths, but were soon overtaken by rain, which continued with little intermission during the whole day. The roads were broad, and in excellent order; a condition for which they are more indebted to the nature of the soil than to the labor of man. The country is hilly, and abounding in low bushes; the Rhus villosum, both here and in other parts of the district passed through in this excursion, forming one of the lightest and prettiest little trees that adorn the landscape. The Chilianthus oleaceus* grew in the hollows, and, in growth and foliage, bore a resemblance to the European olive-tree. Partridges, of a kind peculiar to the Cape, were frequently seen running between the low bushes, and a greater variety of birds now began to be observable. At the farm called Boontjes Kraal (Bean Kraal), we halted a minute to enquire the way. This gave me an opportunity of noticing a profusion of small black pebbles, of the shape and appearance of, but a little larger than, French beans, lying every where scattered in the road, and which had evidently been washed out of the earth by the rains, and, apparently, were of a ferrugineous quality. These naturally gave a name to the spot, being probably the first place at which they had been observed; although stones of the same * The Scoparia arborea of Linneus. This, together with several other undescribed arboreous species, form a natural genus, quite distinct both in habit, and by a four-seeded capsule, from Scoparia ; and for which I would propose the name of Chilianthus, (a xiAsos mille, quasi innumerabiles, et dvdos flos,) on account of all the species bearing numerous small white flowers, in large panicles, not unlike those of Sambucus nigra, the common elder-tree. From this resemblance, the different species have obtained, among the Dutch colonists, the general name of Wilde Vlier, or Wild Elder. 1811. THE WARM BATH AT ZWARTEBERG. 95 kind, and more frequently of a larger size, are pretty common in ‘many parts of the colony. . After passing several farm-houses, we crossed the Bath river at Gildenhuys’s, where a road on the right descends into the valley, to a spot which had just been fixed upon by the Cape Government for the site of a village, since named Caledon, in honor of the Governor under whom it was founded. MHere also was to be erected the Drostdy of the Deputy Landdrost of Swellendam; it having been found necessary, for the better administration of the executive go- vernment, to subdivide that extensive district. Passing under the western end of Zwarteberg, the Bath-house came in view, and had a very pretty effect, being a white, regular, flat-roofed building, pleasantly situated in an elevated part of the southern slope of the mountain. It was built in the year 1797, and at this time was the property of a medical gentleman of the name of Hassener, who resided in the neighbouring house, and under whose superintendence invalids made use of these baths. The Zwarteberg (Black Mountain) is a short mountainous ridge, running east and west, of secondary height, and, in general structure and appearance, as far as I could observe, not differing from the other mountains in its neighbourhood ; nor was the blackness, which gave rise to the name, at all remarkable, nor even very evident. From the lower part of its southern front, projects a small flat hill, out of the upper part of which issue, in several places, hot springs, the waters of which raised my thermometer to 118 degrees (38.2 of Reaumur; 47.77 Centig.) This water deposits, in the channels along which it runs, an orange-coloured ochre ; but after a course of two or three hundred yards, ceases to discolour the ground. It contains iron and sulphur, and has a slightly chalybeate taste. Within three yards of one of these hot springs, there rises another, the water of which is pure and tasteless, without being in the least degree warmer than the usual temperature of spring-water. The hill is not rocky, but seems to be composed of a loose black earth, having very much of a volcanic appearance, amongst which were pieces of hard, black, scoriated iron ore, of a metallic heaviness. » 96 MINERAL SPRINGS OF THE COLONY. 10 Apri, I discovered nothing that could be fancied to be the remains of a volcanic crater; nor is there, I am inclined to think, much reason for entertaining the idea that such had ever existed. Excepting just at this spot, all the springs which flow from the Zwarteberg are of the ordinary temperature ; and, although the bath-hill be of a nature different from that of the great mountain to which it is connected, yet, as it also gives rise to a cold spring, it is difficult to avoid the conclusion, that the cause of heat in this water must be very local. * I shall not here amuse myself in proposing or supporting any hypothesis on the cause. of hot springs; but shall confess myself very much at a loss in attempting to account for the great sub- terranean operations of Nature, whose dark recesses in the centre of our globe are not less out of the pale of observation, than the wide space beyond the starry system. Is, it may be asked of the lovers of hypothetical philosophy, the solidity or the cavity of this sphere, a fact which will ever admit of proof? or will mortal sagacity ever ascertain, whether the great space within the ter- restrial shell be inhabited by animated beings, or occupied by nought but lifeless matter? The numberless desiderata in human knowledge, either shew us the narrow limits of our faculties and mental powers, or teach us that there remains yet more to be known than we have hitherto learnt. The many noble discoveries and deductions which the divine gift of reason has already enabled man to make, give him, indeed, a just hope that, by pursuing an unprejudiced investigation of facts, he may yet arrive at a * Besides the hot spring at 2warteberg, and that in Brand Valley, (described here- after, on 14th April,) some others have been discovered within the colony; particularly one in the valley of the Western Elephant’s River ; another near the Eastern Elephant’s River, in Kamnasi-land; and a third in the arid country behind Kokman’s (or Kogman’s) Kloof: but all are inferior in heat to the two first mentioned. There is also a warm spring on the northern side of the Gariep, in Great Ndmaqualand. Springs of mine- ral waters, of the common temperature, have been noticed in various places; one near Graaff-Reynett, another not far from Uitenhage, and one also in the Tarka: nor is it improbable that several others, equally remarkable, exist in various parts of the colony. 1811. THE BATH-HOUSE. 97 degree of knowledge far beyond that which he now possesses, or that which by some it may be imagined possible for the human mind ever to attain. It is alone by the use of this divine gift, that all our pabnox, or true knowledge, in matters of science, has been obtained: but the wisest must admit that there are bounds by which the universe of ideas is limited ; and here, all must stop. The wild speculations and unfounded theories of those who go in search of knowledge without this for their guide, will surely, like the misty imagery of a dream dispelled by the morning light, vanish at the first dawn of the light of truth. | No attempts have ever been made to ascertain whether this mountain, or any part of the surrounding country, produce metals worth extracting; yet, until the experiment be made, it cannot be believed that so extensive a colony would not, in some way, repay its government the expenses of employing a practical mineralogist to investigate its products, and, by boring or mining in every variety of situation, to bring to light what may prove worthy of being called, its sleeping riches. At least, it is remarkablethat the auri sacra fames has not stimulated individuals to search for profit below the surface ; and though their labours should not be rewarded with gold, some other useful substance might be discovered, which could equally well repay their trouble. The Bath-house stands close under the small flat hill already mentioned, and the water is conducted down to it by a covered channel. The building *, erected in the year 1797, consists only of * See the Vignette at the head of this chapter. This gives a representation of its front, or southern side, which has a fine view of the range of hills and mountains of which the Babylonsche-toren is the most remarkable. In the back ground, in the vignette, is seen a part of the hill from which the hot spring rises. ‘The foreground consists only of rough uncultivated ground ; the art of ornamental gardening being quite unknown in the colony, unless a few places in the immediate vicinity of Cape Town, should be allowed a pretension to it. ‘The trees are young poplars, of the species already noticed as being common in this country; and when they shall have attained a size capable of affording shade and shelter, this spot will certainly have a more picturesque appearance than it can at present boast of. Oo 98 THE WARM-BATHS 10 APRIL, a ground-floor, divided lengthwise by a gallery which opens towards the front, into eight small rooms; and, towards the back, into four baths, together with a kitchen and servants’ rooms at each end. | Unlike the watering-places of England, the Zwarteberg bath offers no attractions of amusement and society, and can barely ac- commodate its visitors with the necessary supplies. Consequently it is resorted to only by a few invalids who have faith in the medicinal powers of these waters, which, I was told, are efficacious against rheumatic affections, and possess some tonic properties; but the people of the country use it, without much discrimination, for a variety of other complaints. * Their virtues, probably, have never been fairly ascertained ; but, under judicious medical direction, these baths may be found beneficial in many cases ; and when the neigh- bouring village shall have attracted a sufficient number of inhabitants, and, with them, the means of accommodating strangers, there is little doubt that this will become a place of considerable resort, as, on account of its greater proximity to the metropolis, it has always been much more frequented than any of the other warm baths of the colony, and, however wide the comparison, may be regarded as the Baie of the Cape. Although the government granted a lease of these springs to the present possessor, it retained the privilege of issuing, to all who would apply for it, permission to make use of the original baths; which, however, are merely a few small huts on the eastern side of the springs, and which are kept in repair at public expense. For this permission, each individual pays a trifling sum, but he receives with it no other accommodation ; and as this class of bathers consists of * Sparrman relates an instance of an injudicious use of these baths, which proved fatal to a slave; he has recorded several chemical experiments on the water, with various tests. (Sparrman’ s Travels, vol.i. p. 139, 140, 141. English ed. Lond. 1785, 4to.)— Thun- berg also gives the results of some further trials. (Thunberg’s Travels, vol. i. p. 215. English elit Lond. 8vo.) — The works of these travellers contain much information, and possess a share of naiveté, and a character of honesty, which render them useful as a picture of the colony in those days. Sparrman relates many incidents in a very amusing manner, and which bear, at the same time, the stamp of fidelity. 1811. AT ZWARTEBERG. 99 boors, slaves or Hottentots, they generally live in their own waggons or in temporary huts, during the time of their stay. The water seemed to possess no quality hurtful to vegetation, as Cliffortia odorata, which is a shrub frequent in wet places, grew in it, as luxuriantly here as in other rivulets. I gathered Pelargo- nium grossulariotdes on the very edge of the warm rill, which was de- corated also with the elegant Restio verticillatus, of the height of six feet, together with various Lodelie, and many other flowers. On the drier ground, Athanasia trifurca was a conspicuous shrub, being at this time in bloom. The sides of the Zwarteberg mountain, which my time did not allow me to examine, appeared likely to furnish a good botanical harvest. The Hot-Bath is about 75 miles distant from Cape Town, and bearing 8S. E. by E.} E. It is not situated on the great eastern road, but stands at a little distance on one side of that branch of it which leads to the spot selected for the intended village ; while the great eastern road itself passes along the northern side of Zwarteberg. The name of Zwarteberg is applied to several different mountains in the colony; to one near Saldanha Bay; to the lofty range which walls in the southern side of the Great Karro ; and perhaps to many others. Numberless instances of one name being given to several different places, may easily be found on the map ; but the confusion arising from this inattention, will become more serious in proportion as the country increases in population, and will, in the end, call for the application of some remedy, which, before the colony shall be too far advanced, may not be found impracticable. The number of mountains and places still undistinguished by any name, continues to be the cause of many mistakes ; and the in- habitants have great reason for desiring an authorised, regular, and systematic naming of all such places. As this country, for any thing at present known, will continue attached to the British empire, it seems more natural that the names of the principal’ places at least, should be English. The transition from Dutch to English names, might be made with little inconvenience to either nation, since translations of the present Dutch names might be used by all 02 100 BABYLONSCHE TOREN 11 AprtL, speaking or writing in English ; while the converse of this, in writ- ing in Dutch, would prevent mistake or confusion with those who are acquainted only with that language. Precisely this has already taken place with some names in daily use, such as Kaapstad, Tafelberg, Leeuwenkop, Zoute rivier, Zondags rivier, Grootevisch rivier, for which the English inhabitants have substituted, both in speaking and in writing, Cape Town, Table-mountain, Lion’s-head, Salt-river, Sunday- river, and Great Fish-river. But the aboriginal Hottentot names ought, on no account, to be altered ; they should, on the contrary, rather be sought for, and adopted, as being far more appropriate to Southern Africa, than a multitude of foolish names of modern imposition. 11th. I spent the forenoon in drawing some views, as memorials of a spot which I might never visit again. The landscape is moun- tainous and open, and, though it no where presents the desirable feature of wood, it isnot deficient in beauty, in the grand, flowing outline of a range of mountains on the opposite side of the valley, and in which the mountain called Babylonsche Toren (Tower of Babel) stands conspicuous.* This mountain is, perhaps, the most remark- able of any in the colony, on account of the immense distance at which it is visible. About three years and a half afterwards, I saw it from the spot marked in my map by the words Mountain Station, which is distant 120 miles in a straight line; and a peak, which I distinguished when near a place called Helle, near Gaurits river, could hardly be any other than this same mountain, though the dis- tance is not less than 157 miles in aright line. This would seem incredible, if allowance were not made for an extraordinarily re- * The annexed engraving is a representation of this mountain, as viewed from the baths. i 1811. VISIBLE AT A GREAT DISTANCE. 101 fractive power which the atmosphere possesses under a peculiar combination of circumstances. The intervening country, being free from high mountains, is favourable to great refraction. By mention- ing this curious circumstance, I hope to excite the attention of other travellers, who may pass that way, to ascertain whether or not, I have been mistaken in supposing the mountain which I saw from that spot, to have been Babylonsche Toren. Not many miles from the Baths, is a small spot, called Hemel-en- aarde (Heaven-and-earth), surrounded by high mountains, where there is an hospital (Ziekenhuis) for those afflicted with that dreadful and incurable malady the leprosy. This hospital is maintained at public expense; for defraying which, an express tax is levied on the colonists. Early hours are kept throughout this country, and dinner is really that which its Dutch name implies, a noontide meal (middag maal). ‘This enabled us to take our departure from the Baths in good time, as we hoped, to reach the end of our day’s journey before dark. We mounted our horses, and took the road to Genadendal (Grace vale), the chief establishment of the Moravian missionaries ; a place interesting in many respects, and which it was one of our principal objects to visit. We re-passed the bath river, and, doubling the western point of Zwarteberg, took a northerly track, inclining a little eastward. The earth was generally of a reddish color; in some places, of an argillaceous, and, in others, of a sandy nature. The face of the country was open, and its surtace varied with smooth hills, covered almost exclusively with a’neat pale bushy shrub, of the height of three or four feet, called Rhinoster bosch (Rhinoceros bush) *, and said to have formerly been the food of the huge rhinoceros, till those animals fled betore the colonists, as these gradually advanced over the country where the shrub grows. Of European plants, the * Stoebe rhinocerotis. ‘The following Vignette represents a sprig in its natural size. The leaves are very minute, and like scales, in the manner of the cypress; the flowers are small, and, though very numerous, are neither showy nor ornamental, being of a simple herbaceous color. Several species of Stoebe, which in growth resemble this one, are all, without distinction, called by the colonists, Rhinoster-bosch, and perhaps have, in former days, been equally the favourite food of the Rhinoceros. 102 THE RHINOCEROS-BUSH. 1] APRIL. Tamarisk is that which has the most resemblance to it; but the Rhinoster-bosch is of a hoary complexion, much more close and bushy, and finer in ramification. It abounds in dry hilly lands; and occupying extensive tracts, gives a peculiar character to the land- scape. In this day’s ride, this monotony became tedious ; but as the roads, through what is called a Rhinoceros-bush country, are always very good, travellers regard that convenience as a sufficient recom- pence for the want of variety in its vegetation. In this excursion, not a single large tree was any where to be seen, except around the houses of the colonists: these most fre- quently were either the white poplar, or the common English oak. I soon became accustomed, on observing a distant clump of trees, to view them as the sure indication of a dwelling-house; it being only in the deep ravines of the mountains, that indigenous trees are generally to be found. CHAPTER V. VISIT TO GENADENDAL. Tue weather was exceedingly pleasant and fine; but the distant blue lofty mountains of Baviaan’s Kloof (Baboon’s Pass), which now appeared before us, seemed enveloped in rain. The sun, fast sinking to the horizon, induced us to quicken our pace, that we might cross the river Zondereinde (Endless River) before dark. As this was a deeper stream than any we had hitherto crossed ; and as we judged it would be much swelled with the rain of yesterday, we began to entertain great apprehensions that the ford would be found too deep to be passed safely in the dark. The course of this river is by no means of such a length as to justify the name it bears: not far from the village of Zwellendam, 104 RECEPTION AT GENADENDAL. 11, 12 Aprit, it joins the Breede (Broad) River. We reached it just before the close of twilight, and forded without accident, the water flowing scarcely so high as our horses’ sides, and its width being but a few yards. As we approached Genadendal, the mountains assumed a grandeur which the dubious light of evening very much increased. We had not long to contemplate the sublimity of this scene, as night soon drew its dark veil over it. The pleasure which it had inspired was succeeded by sensations of a less agreeable kind, when we found ourselves overtaken, on an unknown road, by one of the darkest nights we had witnessed; and were obliged to rely entirely on our horses for keeping us in-the beaten road. At last we fortunately caught an uncertain glimpse of a light, which we supposed to proceed from some of the huts of the settlement; and, after groping our way more than a mile further, we arrived at the hut, and engaged its owner, who was a Hottentot, to lead us to the house of the missionaries, where we were received with a cordial welcome. The name by which the members of this sect distinguish | themselves, is, The United Brethren; and, judging from what I witnessed here, no other can be more applicable. On entering their peaceful abode, I seemed to have quitted the stormy world and its turbulent passions: the quiet and unassuming demeanor of the brethren; the order and the cleanliness of every thing I saw, gave me at once a very favorable opinion of the establish- ment. The missionaries were about four or five in number, and,. together with their wives, constituted one family, in the superin- tendence and management of which each one had his proper de- partment allotted to him; and it was delightful to observe with what tranquillity and regularity every thing was conducted. Their dress was modest and plain, and much resembled that of the sect of Quakers. ; After partaking of their supper, we left them to the unin- terrupted performance of religious duties peculiar to the day, it being the eve of Good Friday, and retired to a small clean and neat 1811. FIRST MORAVIAN MISSION. 105 cottage close by, built expressly for the reception of visitors and strangers. At our lodging we were attended by two or three female Hottentot servants, very decently dressed; and I confess that such a specimen of the improvement, in the point of personal cleanliness, in a race of human beings proverbially filthy, was judiciously placed, and did not fail to excite my surprise, at the same time that it was truly gratifying. The walls of our cottage were whitewashed within and without, and the ceilings of the rooms were formed of a reed, called by the colonists Spaansche riet (Spanish reed) *, very neatly bound together; but an earthen floor, though swept quite clean, had too unartificial an appearance. Such floors are of very general occurrence, and must long continue so in those parts of the country where timber is scarce; but the force of custom and habit is re- markably exemplified by the fact, that even those boors, who dwell in the vicinity of the forests, still Bg an earthen, to a boarded, floor. The first mission to the see for propagating the Christian religion, was commenced in the year 1737, by a person named Schmidt, sent out by the Moravian society at Hernhuth. He formed a little settlement at this spot, and had succeeded in collecting round him a few Hottentots; but, finding too many impediments thrown in his way, by the colonists as it is said, he was at. last obliged to abandon the undertaking, and finally returned to Europe in 1744. In the latter part of the year 1792, with the. permission of the Dutch East India Company, three Moravian missionaries, named Marsveld, Schwinn, and Kihnel, were sent out to renew the mission. They fixed themselves at the same place, where, after a lapse of nearly fifty years, they still found some useful remains of Schmidt’s garden and hut. Such was the commencement of this interesting establishment, ~ * Arundo Donaz, Lin. This is a strong reed, of the thickness of about an inch at the lower end. It grows to the height of fifteen feet or more, and is cultivated very gene- rally by the boors, and applied to a variety of useful purposes. P 106 DESCRIPTON OF THE SETTLEMENT 12 APRIL, which continued for many years to bear the name of Baviaan’s Kloof, until it received the more applicable one of Genadendal (Grace Vale), while that of Baviaan’s Kloof is retained for the ad- joining pass over the mountains, being its ancient denomination. Kihnel had died previously to our visit; but other missionaries had at different times been sent out to reinforce the remainder ; and a part of these, at the invitation of the Governor, had founded, in the year 1808, a similar settlement at Groene Kloof (the Green Pass), a place about midway between Cape Town and Saldanha Bay. * bey 12th. ‘This morning my curiosity was much gratified, on view- ing the place by day-light. Its secluded situation, in a pleasant valley, surrounded by bold and lofty mountains, perfectly accorded with the purpose for which it was chosen. At the head of the valley were erected all the principal buildings. At one end of a small green stood the Church +, built in 1797, and which, by its height, was the most conspicuous object in the settlement. It was a plain, oblong, white building, covered with a thatched roof of a very sharp pitch, but without a steeple. On both sides were four large glazed windows, and at each end two. Its interior was plain and neat; the walls were white-washed, and the ceiling was sup- ported by two strong, though rather clumsy, pillars of masonry. The whole area, which was considered: by the brethren to be large enough to accommodate an auditory of from eight hundred to a * Of these two institutions, a full and interesting account may be seen in the Rev. C. J. Latrobe’s “ Journal of a Visit to South Africa, in 1815 and 1816.” + The Vignette, at the beginning of this chapter, gives a view of the Church on the southern and eastern sides. ‘The hedge, and trees beyond it, form part of the mission- aries’ garden. Some of the lower mountains, which extend from the Baviaan’s Kloof westward, are seen in the back-ground; they are covered with bushes and a great variety of plants, and have an appearance of verdure intermingled with rocks. The trees on the right are part of a beautiful grove of oaks, planted soon after the re-establishment of the mission; and the two before the church are chesnuts (Castanea vesca). The figures re- present Hottentots in their ordinary working dress. A little to the right, but out of this picture, are the dwelling-houses and buildings of the mission; above which the mountains of the Kloof appear at a great clevation, 1811. AT GENADENDAL. f 107 thousand persons, was covered with long benches ; one-half of which was appropriated to the women, and the other half to the men. Around three of the sides, a narrow gallery has been constructed ; and, at one end of the building, a small portion is partitioned off, for a vestry. The pulpit was merely a desk on a platform raised a little above the floor. ‘Two separate doors admitted the male and the female part of the congregation to their respective benches. No- thing is solicited from visitors ; but near the door is a box to receive pecuniary contributions, which, however, are perfectly voluntary. The upper part of this building was converted into a large loft, for containing various stores belonging to the society. All money received, whether from the sale of the articles they manufacture, or of the produce of their vineyard ; from visitors for their accom- modations ; from voluntary donations ; or from any other source, is deposited in a common purses and saipliedds in aid of the expenses of the establishment. On one side of the green, a shady grove of oaks, regularly planted, surrounded and half concealed the different dwellings of the missionaries, together with the knife-manufactory, the blacksmith’s ' shop, the water-mill and wine-press, the tobacco-house and cellar, the poultry-house, the cow-house, and store-rooms. The whole of these buildings, the work of the missionaries and their Hottentots, is substantially and neatly built in the Dutch style, and covered with thatch. Contiguous to the church and dwelling-houses, was an excellent garden, stocked with a variety of fruits and vegetables ; and beyond this a vineyard. In the garden, a large pear-tree, planted by the founder of the establishment, Schmidt, was pointed out to me with all that pleasure and satisfaction, which the respect they bore towards his memory so naturally awakened. Beyond the vineyard, there was a large burying-ground, regularly divided into compartments, in which the graves were dug in a regular and successive order; each being numbered, to correspond with a register of the burials. Two or three graves of the missionaries and their wives were distinguished by broad flat tomb-stones, bear- ing a plain inscription. | ep 2 108 DESCRIPTION OF GENADENDAL. 12 APRIL, The principal dwelling-house, where the brethren meet at every meal, and at private prayer, had formerly been their church, until the congregation becoming too numerous, they were obliged to build a larger. Every missionary, according to the custom of their society, professes some useful art or trade. One of the above- named, who from their age had now become the fathers of this family, was the constructor of an excellent water-mill, at which, besides the use made of it by the whole settlement, some money is earned towards its expenses, by grinding corn for the neighbouring boors. The second was a carpenter, waggon-maker, &c.; and the third, a smith, who had established a very respectable manufactory tor cutlery ; the Genadendal knives fetching a higher price among the boors, than those of the same kind imported from Europe. Those Hottentots who are willing to be instructed, are taken: as apprentices in the different trades. A constant stream of water is supplied by a small rivulet, called Baviaan’s river, issuing from the mountains of the Kloof, and which, after meandering through the whole length of the valley, joins the river Zondereinde. This valley is divided into a great number of small gardens, portioned out among those Hottentot families who are disposed to submit to all the regulations of the settle- ment, and take up their abode under its protection. By the rules of the institution, these’ ‘gardens and advantages become forfeited as soon as they cease to conduct themselves with industry and morality. This simple and just law, is one of the secrets by which the Moravians here have been enabled to maintain that good order and decorum which are among the best practical results of mis- sionary labors. Interspersed between the gardens, but without much regularity, are the huts of the Hottentots; and besides these, a fewmore are scattered about in the adjoining valleys. The population of Genadendal, or, more correctly speaking, the number of Hottentots registered as belonging to this institution, amounts, according to the information I received, to about fourteen hundred souls; but the number of actual inhabitants at any one 1811. , HOTTENTOT CONGREGATION. 109 period, falls short of this estimate, in proportion to the demand of the neighbouring farms for Hottentot labourers. On looking up the valley, a grand scene presents itself: the Baviaan’s Kloof exhibits a deep recess, where one mountain shutting in before the other, would lead the spectator to suppose that, along the dark defile, he might find a road through, to the other side of the range; but these mountains can be traversed only by a steep and rugged foot-path, which leads over their summit. Clouds often envelope their craggy tops, and mist and rain fall more frequently here than in the open country. ‘This, unfortunately, happened now to be the case; yet, at intervals of fair weather, I found an oppor- tunity of making a sketch of the scene. At ten o’clock in the morning, the bell summoned the Hottentot congregation to church; and soon were seen coming from all quar- ters, men and women, who, to the number of about seven hundred, assembled and took their seats in a very orderly manner. Several of the men still wore the Hottentot sheep-skin cloak, or kaross ; but none were without trowsers: the rest were clothed in woollen jackets, with shirts, hats, and shoes. All the women were remark- ably clean, and neatly dressed in European costume; and the ma- jority even wore stockings. The whole appeared very attentive to the service, performed in the Dutch language, and which consisted in reading that part of the New Testament relating to the Cru- cifixion and in singing psalms at intervals. This latter part of the ceremony was exceedingly interesting, and even gratifying, by the exactness with which the whole congregation kept time, and by the perfect unison they preserved throughout. From amongst the women, I could distinguish some good voices ; and the service of the day sufficed to prove to me, that Nature has certainly not denied to Hottentots a musical ear. To every philanthropist it could not fail to be a treat of the purest kind; to witness a despised and degraded portion of his fellow-creatures taken under the kind protection of those who have had the more fortunate lot of being born to the improvements of European knowledge; to behold them thus reclaimed from disgust- ° 110 UTILITY OF MISSIONARIES. 12 Arrit, ing filthiness, to a decent cleanliness; from a wild, irregular life, to order and social rules; from uninstructed stupidity, to a know- ledge and practice of morality and the useful arts of civilised man ; in fine, from a gross ignorance of the Supreme Being, to a due sense of the superintending g Seon of the Great Creator of the universe. When missionary labors produce effects such as these, every well- wisher of mankind will view them with respect. Such, at least, are the professed objects of this institution ; and if some instances are to be found, which show that they hice not in every case been at- tained, and that seed sown on a sterile soil has been unproductive, we are not on that account to shut our eyes against the many proofs of the utility of such an establishment as Genadendal. Every one acquainted with human nature, will be ready to acknowledge, that many difficulties must be overcome in the course of such an attempt. To inculcate the necessity of honest industry, as a chief moral duty, is in effect cutting off the root of, at least, half the miseries of the Hottentot race, and tends to make these people a more valuable part of the population of the colony. Their general quiet and harm- less character gives them a superior claim to encouragement, and renders them friendly to the existing government. By persuading or compelling them to the observance of the precepts of morality, and by drawing them under the influence of religion, their vices, which commonly are not of the most atrocious kind, may be repressed pro- bably with less difficulty than would be met with in many other un- civilised nations. But such a desirable end is not to be accomplished by the ignorant enthusiast: it is the man of genuine morality and humble piety who, gifted by nature with the talents of a teacher, improved by education, and warmed by the spirit of pure philan- thropy, seeks not to gratify his vanity by public approbation, but considers it a sufficient reward for his persevering labors, to behold the temporal and religious improvement of those whom, with affec- tionate humanity, he has taken under his care and guidance. A solicitude for the welfare of our fellow-creatures, can proceed from nought but the best feelings of the heart; and it is this which constitutes the essence of a true missionary: but a blind 1811. VIEW FROM THE MOUNTAINS 111 desire to infuse his own peculiar religious doctrines, and a disregard to the worldly improvement of his followers, are the distinguishing marks of an opposite character, and can only exist in a mind alto- gether unfit for the undertaking. ‘The harm such men do in the cause is seldom to be remedied. The savage witnesses the superi- ority of civilised men, and longs to be taught those arts which have created that superiority ; but if, instead of gratifying so natural a wish, his teacher will inform him of nothing but the incompre- hensible mysteries of religion, he is ’ disappointed, perhaps disgusted, and resolves to shut his ears to further instruction. Would the missionary content himself, in the onset, with teaching them such useful arts as would add to their daily comfort, he would gain their esteem and respect, most likely their gratitude; and having thus secured their confidence, would find their minds and hearts in a state better fitted to listen to his precepts, and to receive the lessons of religion. Bibi the place itself had an air of tranquillity, and the little grove seemed to cast a modest peaceful shade around. The brethren appearing much pleased with the sketch I made of this scene, and lamenting that, though several visitors had promised them a drawing of it, to send to their society in Europe, they had all forgotten their promise, I engaged to fulfil it for them ; which I did a few weeks afterwards. In the afternoon, we were conducted part of the way up the mountains, to a spot whence we had a commanding view of the whole settlement, and of the vale of the Zondereinde; while the numerous huts of the Hottentots, half hid in the midst of gardens, through which the winding rivulet took its course, formed altogether an interesting picture. On the eastern bank, a few huts appeared detached from the rest ; these belonged to some Caffres (or Kaffers), who had taken up their abode here, and proved worthy members of this community. From the summit of these mountains, it is said that Table Mountain and the Bay can be distinguished; but the unfavourable state of the weather, and the late hour of the day, obliged us hastily 112 HUTS OF THE HOTTENTOTS. ° 13 APRIL; to descend, and the darkness of evening fell upon us before we reached the house. The air became chilly, owing to the rain which had fallen during the day: the thermometer was no higher than 61° (12°8 Reaum.; 16°11 Centig.) 13th. The next morning we were attended by Mr. Kiister, one of the brethren, who conditehes us along the valley, through the maze of gardens and fruit-trees, to exhibit the progress which their Hottentots had made in horticulture and domestic order. Warmed with unaffected zeal in the cause in which he was engaged, he displayed their success with a satisfaction and pleasure, in which we fully participated. The huts at Genadendal, unlike those of genuine Hottentot construction, which have an hemispherical shape, and are covered with mats, are merely a rude imitation of the quadrangular buildings of the colonists. Those which we saw, were generally from ten to fifteen feet long, and from eight to ten wide, having an earthen floor, and walls Nene on their inside, composed of rough unhewn posts, filled up between with reeds and rushes plastered with mud, and the whole covered with a roof of thatch. The eaves being in general not higher from the ground than four or six feet, the doors could not be entered without stooping. A small unglazed window admitted light; but there was neither chimney, nor any other opening in the roof, by which the smoke might escape. * ! Some of the huts exhibited superior workmanship, being di- vided by a partition-wall into two rooms, and were exceedingly neat and clean. A table, two or three chairs, and a box, all manu- factured by the Hottentots themselves, made up the principal part of the furniture. A few families, who had been long established here, lived in houses of a much better description, built of square sawn beams, and walls partly of bricks and partly of mud hardened in the sun. One house, situated in a line of huts called Molen-straat * The Vignette at the end of this chapter is a view of a part of the valley of Gena- dendal, showing the ordinary huts of the Hottentots, sur. rounded by piwehng of peach- trees. The mountain there seen is a part of 2warteberg. 1811. DESCRIPTION OF A CORN-MILL. 113 (Mill-street), contained a small hand-mill, where three Hottentots were busily employed in grinding their corn. This mill was remarkable for its very simple construction: the essential parts of its mechanism were merely two horizontal stones, of two feet in diameter, and three handles. The under-stone was fixed, about three feet from the ground, in a circular frame or box of wood, elevated above it high enough to prevent the upper stone, when in motion, from flying off. The inner surface of each stone was channelled in the same manner as we observe in the mill-stones in England; while the upper one was perforated by a funnel-shaped hole of the form of an inverted cone, into which the corn, in small quantities, was continually thrown by hand. In the upper surface of the moving stone was fixed a stout cylindric pin of iron. The handle was a horizontal stick about four feet long, one end of which was fastened by a piece of raw hide to the iron pin; while the other was supported by a long rope attached to the rafters of the roof. In the same manner, two other handles were fixed to the pin, one above the other, and were similarly supported by ropes suspended from different parts of the roof. By alternately pushing forward and pulling back these handles, the upper stone was made to turn round with any desired degree of velocity, and at the same time discharged the flour by a spout in the side of the circular box. The greatest inconvenience of such a mill consists in its having no means for regulating the degree of fineness or coarseness of the meal; but for this country, where regular millwrights are seldom to be found, it possesses a most important advantage, in being so easy of construction, that every farmer may make one for himself. It is, in fact, often to be met with in the houses of the boors, having, most probably, been by them originally introduced into this colony. As we passed along through: their little gardens, under the cool shade of peach-trees, the Hottentots at work touched their hats, and, in a good-natured, respectful manner, accosted each of us with “ Dag, Mynheer !”. meaning “ Good day, Sir!” The women, as we walked by the door of their huts, courtesied with the same salutation; while the boys and girls, half-hidden behind them, Q 114 GARDENS AND MANUFACTURES 13 Aprit, seemed also eager to get a peep at the strangers. I could not help noticing the comparatively smal] proportion of male population that appeared in the settlement: this Mr. Kiister accounted for, by the number of men who were absent on service with the boors; some by the week, others by the month, and a few by.the year. If a Hottentot have property; that is, provisions, sufficient for the support of his wife and children during his absence, he gene- rally prefers leaving them under the protection of the missionary establishment, to taking them with him to the farmers, where they hardly ever receive any other wages for their work, than their daily food. * Although their gardens, in neatness and good management, be much below the point at which it would be desirable to see them, it ought to be remembered, that any thing like horticulture in the Hottentot race, should be regarded as an extraordinary improve- ment on their ancient mode of living. Different vegetables and roots were seen in their gardens; but tobacco and pumkins were to be found in almost every one. The women here, besides all their domestic employments, earn a little money by the sale of mats, which they manufacture from a kind of rush +, very common in the rivers of this district. These rushes are sometimes so long as to admit of being made into mats six feet in width: this is not done in the manner of interweaving, but by placing them parallel to each other, and transversely with respect to the length of the mat, con- necting them at every five or six inches by cords, made either of the same material, or of the bark of the Karro thorn-tree [, run through them the whole length of the mat, by means of a long wooden or bone needle. We next visited the manufactory of cutlery, where I saw a considerable stock of all those articles for which there is any de- * Some further account of Genadendal ; its natural history, &c. will be found under the date of the 13th of F ebruary to 7th March, 1815. + Cyperus textilis. + Acacia Capensis. B. See the Vignette at the head of Chapter X. 1811. AT GENADENDAL. 115 mand in the country. Some Hottentot apprentices were employed in making others; chiefly a sort of pocket sheath-knife much used by the boors. At the blacksmith’s shop, other Hottentots were forging the iron-work for a waggon, under the direction of one of the Brethren; and the quiet, steady industry with which these worthy people pursued each their peculiar occupation, was an ex- ample which it would be in the highest degree pleasing to see followed every where. I now made enquiry for Hottentots who would engage them- selves in my service for the intended expedition into the interior ; but, on account of so many being at this time absent from the settlement, barely one could be found, who was willing .to go with me, and that only in case he could persuade some others of his acquaint- ance to accompany him. But after trying in vain all his friends, who objected to the great length of the proposed journey, he finally de- clined my offer, although I had acceded to his demand of thirty rix dollars per month, which was at least six times the customary wages of a Hottentot. In this occurrence, an unexpected difficulty dis- closed itself; and I began to be fearful that the nature of my under- taking would deter others also from entering my service. It was with reluctance that we took our departure from this interesting spot: its peaceful character ; the tranquillity of the scene ; its good order; and especially the benevolent purpose to which it was dedicated, had made a delightful impression on my mind. ag nil Be SSS CHAPTER VI. RIDE FROM GENADENDAL TO THE HOT SPRING IN BRAND VALLEY} AND VISIT TO TULBAGH. Havine lingered till the sun had passed the meridian nearly two hours, we were compelled to hasten our pace. Following, upwards, the course of the river, along the Vale of the Zondereinde, we forded many little streams. These we found deeper than any we had hitherto passed; but their waters were clear and limpid; and I remarked, that none of the rivers which we crossed in the succeeding part of this excursion, exhibited the brown color noticed at the Palmiet river. A solitary farm-house was the only dwelling we saw: therface of the country was shrubby ; but not a single tree of any magnitude was to be seen, although many large and decayed trunks .were observed along the banks of the Zondereinde. Fire- wood is an article generally very scarce in the vicinity of a Hottentot settlement ; and, in all the grazing parts of the colony, it is rendered much more so by the wasteful and destructive practice of annually 13 ApriL, 1811. DUNKERHOEK-BERG. 117 setting fire to the old withered grass, as the means of clearing the pastures. The flames, spreading rapidly, scorch and destroy every shrub and plant in their way, and pervade the whole farm, unless stopped by a river, or a beaten road. In ascending the Dunkerhoek (Dark Corner) mountains, part of the Baviaan’s Kloof chain, the devastation occasioned by this.custom was very striking, in the fatal havoc it had lately made amongst the finest plants of proteas, heaths, and the richest variety of shrubs we had passed in our ride. That delicate and beautiful heath, Erica vestita, with white flowers, grows here, as was discoverable by one large plant which had escaped the conflagration. Antholyza lucidor, and Aulax umbellata, were recog- nised, although quite scorched up. Every thing was nearly con- sumed or destroyed, and the black, charcoal-like state of this shrubbery presented a singular, but melancholy appearance. * We continued our ride for several miles over an elevated mountainous tract, where no signs of a habitation were to be seen; the sun had set, leaving us under the dismal apprehension of having missed the right road, and of being left to wander all night in a region where deep ravines and precipices occurred on either side. Just as the twilight was drawing to a close, we perceived a house down in the valley below; and, on arriving at it, had the satis- faction of finding that. it was the dwelling of a farmer named Jacobus Du Toit, where we had intended taking up our quarters for the night. We met with a cordial reception; a Hottentot was instantly called to take our horses, and we were no sooner seated, than the good lady of the house poured us out a cup of tea; an article which, in most farm-houses, is always kept in readiness, as a beverage that may be taken at any hour of the day. We took our seat at the family table, and supper was prolonged by a variety of questions from our host and his wife, respecting the nature and object of my intended expedition. On such topics * The natural productions of this day’s journey are noted under the date of the 7th to the 10th of March, 1815. 118 DU TOIT’S 13, 14 Aprit, as travelling in distant parts of the colony; game and wild beasts; Bushmen and Caffres; oxen, sheep, and pastures, a boor carries on a conversation with considerable interest, as these are to him subjects of chief importance. But in respect to the cultivation of mental capacity, and an extensive variety of ideas, it is unrea- sonable to expect more in a Dutch peasant of this colony ‘than we can meet with in the peasantry of Europe. To cast this re- proach on the boors of the Cape, as a national character, is an act of injustice, which, if not to be excused by ignorance, must be attributed to some worse motive. . : At about half an hour after nine, all retired to rest; some to a mat on the floor in the voorhuis (entrance-room, or hall), which is a large room used for general purposes, and occupying the middle and principal part of the ground-floor; the master to the bed- room at one end of the voorhuis, and the guests to a small chamber at the other. Those bearing the name of Du Toit are said to be the descend- ants of one of those Protestant French families spoken of in the third chapter, as having fled to the Cape to avoid religious per- secution. It is a singular instance of complaisance, that they them- selves have relinquished the French pronunciation of their name, and adopted that of the boors their neipebetie speaking it as if written in English, Du Towey. ° A4th. - Thies next morning, we were shown his kraal, or cattle- ound in which he had not less than a hundred oxen and cows; but of those which he had for sale, none appeared fit for my purpose. His income depended chiefly on the produce of his vineyard ; and, since the Cape has been in the hands of the English, it has yielded a much greater profit than before. In his, as in most of the gardens of these districts, I noticed all the common culinary vegetables of Europe ; and, of fruit-trees, the peach, apple, pear, apricot, fig, banana or plantain, guava, orange, lemon, mulberry, and medlar, seemed to thrive perfectly well. The quince-tree formed the usual hedges of the gardens in most parts of the colony; which purpose they answer exceedingly 1811. IN THE BOSJESVELD. 119 well, by being treated in the same manner as the quick or haw- thorn; and, by ‘ plashing’ their long tough and slender twigs, while young, they produce a very lasting fence, which, at the same time, possesses the very necessary property of being impenetrable to cattle. These twigs are very commonly used as horse-whips, when those made of the hide of the rhinoceros or hippopotamus, are not to be procured. At this season, every hedge. is loaded with the finest fruit, the flavour of which is excellent; but they are seldom turned to any other account than that of affording a kind of brandy: peaches, however, yield a better spirit. This division of the district, on the northern side of the moun- tains, is called Bosjesveld (Bushland, or the Bushy Country); and, although that name was probably, at its first imposition, charac- teristic of the nature of the country, there did not appear at this time any peculiar feature, of that kind, by which it might be con- sidered to differ much from the other divisions of this part of the colony. Du Toit’s house is beautifully situated in an open country, surrounded on all sides by distant mountains; and, though it be wild, and apparently barren, the soil is reckoned productive, as, indeed, the garden and vineyard clearly proved. A part of the morning I employed in making two drawings of the scenery, par- ticularly as they might express a certain general character of the houses and landscape, which most frequently occurs in this settle- ment. The dwelling itself was a miserable mud-built cottage, with a ground floor of four or five rooms. It could boast of glazed windows, but neither of a boarded floor, nor of a plastered ceiling ; in which respect, however, it was not worse than the best farm- houses in the country. In front was a small garden, of the width of the house, enclosed by a low mud wall, shaded by two fine trees of Melia Azedirach, twenty feet high, whose horizontal branches and light foliage gave it an air of much elegance: such trees are not uncommon. A beautiful bush of Nerium Oleander, twelve feet high, covered with blossom, seemed, by its splendid colors, 120 MODE OF BUILDING MUD-WALLS. 14 ApRit, to mock the wretched, dirty mien of the house. A large low- spreading tree, of an indigenous species of willow, was the only plant that could afford the house the least shelter from the wind. The out-buildings, of which there were many, were not, in ap- pearance, inferior to the dwelling-house ; and, like that, they were built of mud. : The process for making walls of this kind, is extremely simple, though not expeditious; and can only be practicable where earth of a suitable quality is found. This, if too clayey, shrinks and cracks ; and, if not sufficiently so, crumbles and moulders away: but, with a good proportion of sand or grit, added to some ferruginous par- ticles, it forms a wall not much less durable than those which are built of bricks. For this purpose, it is made into a mud, which. must be well tempered, and sufficiently stiff to remain in layers of about a foot in thickness, without falling out of shape. . No kind of mould or form is used in this process; but the earth is merely laid on with a spade, and, when half dry, the sides are pared smooth. When one layer is perfectly dry, but not sooner, another is laid on; and thus, from time to time, repeating the operation, the wall may be carried up, if required, to the height of a second story, while, at the same time, the thickness necessary for supporting that weight need not be greater than one-half more than is generally requisite for a brick wall of the same height. These operations can only be carried on in the dry season of the year. Such materials, it may be remarked, cannot be used with advantage in climates where the thermometer sinks much below the freezing point; as alternate rain, frost, and thaw, would occasion a wall of this sort to crumble away in a little time. When such buildings are white-washed, which I have often observed in other parts of the colony, they look very neat, and are not easily to be distinguished from those which are made of bricks and stuccoed. . This fine valley was but thinly inhabited: not more than two or three other farm-houses were in sight; yet, were the land properly appropriated. and well managed, it would, there can be little doubt, support an industrious population of far greater amount 1811. PASTORAL COUNTRIES NOT POPULOUS. 121 than that by which it is at present occupied. The immense tract of land that, in a country such as this where the herbage is never thick enough to cover the ground, is required for a grazing farm, tends to check the progress of agriculture, inasmuch as it prevents the due subdivision of the land. A pastoral district must necessarily be thinly inhabited; and it is only in proportion as it assumes an agricultural character, that it can admit any considerable increase of population. It is not to this valley alone, that these remarks are applicable ; they will not be found very incorrect, if applied generally to the whole of the colony. Our hospitable friends, who had been much pleased by the unreserved and communicative disposition of my companion, would have persuaded us to remain till the next day; for the visits of strangers, from whom any news may be obtained, are almost always welcome in this country: but we took our leave at an early hour, while the whole of the family, standing at the door as we rode off, bade us farewell, and “ aangenaame reis” (pleasant journey) ; often re- peating, that if we came that way again, we must not fail to take up our quarters at their house. The weather was delightful, and not a cloud intercepted the brightness of the atmosphere. Nothing could be more pleasant than our ride along this valley: every object glowed with the genial warmth of the air. At the termination of it, we had to ascend a kloof, or gorge, in a range of rocky hills, from the top of which a magnificent scene of mountains burst upon us. At the foot of this kloof, after a considerable descent, commenced a long extended valley, apparently four or five miles broad, and very level, stretching as far as Brand Valley (Burning, or Scalding Valley) ; beyond which we beheld the majestic mountains of Hex-Riviers Kloof (the Pass of Witches’ River). This country is a continuation of the Bosjesveld ; and, at about mid-way, we halted at the dwelling of a boor named Duplessis, where we arrived at noon. Being entirely strangers at this house, we introduced ourselves, according to the custom of the country, by riding up to the door, remaining seated on our horses till the master of the house makes his R 122 VINEGAR INSTEAD OF WINE. 14 Aprin, appearance, when we exchange the word Dag; and on being asked if we will not alight, or have the saddles taken off, we dismount and give our hand, saying “ Hoe vaart gy?” (How do you do?) to which the answer is, invariably, “ Gezond” (In good health). We are then invited into the house, and desired to sit down; or, if the family hap- pen to be at meals, are expected to make one at the table. A few ques- tions, as to where we come from, and whither we are going, usually follow ; and the meal being finished, we are at liberty to proceed on our journey as soon as we please. Seldom is any direct enquiry made to discover who we are, or even our names. These are the ceremonies and reception most commonly met with throughout the country. : Duplessis seemed desirous of treating us well, and boasted of having as good wine as any in the colony. He poured us out each a glass, and we had already begun to praise its bright color ; but no sooner had it touched our lips, than we discovered by each other’s looks, that we perfectly coincided in our judgment, that it was the. sourest wine we had ever drank. We sipped again; but its acidity was intolerable: yet, as it would have been an affront to our good-natured host, to have spoken ill of wine which he called the “ best in the colony,” I made a sign to Polemann that we must e’en drink it down, let happen what would; and, to encourage him in a piece of politeness for which he showed but little relish, I set the example, by undauntedly taking another sip. He had scarcely swallowed the half of his, when our host, who had just poured out some for himself, hastily took the glass out of his hand, apologising very warmly for having brought us, by mistake, a bottle of vinegar. But he spoke too late; and my fellow-traveller, addressing me in English, which was not understood at this house, reproached me for having, by an over-politeness, induced him to drink half a glass of vinegar. Poor Duplessis was much confused at discovering his unfortunate blunder, and immediately fetched a bottle of excellent wine, taking the precaution to drink the first glass himself. | While the horses were feeding, I made use of the short time we stopped here, to take a sketch of the place. A few trees of white 1811. THE WAGGON-TREE. 123 poplar near the house, relieved the naked, unsheltered appearance of the situation, which was backed by a low range of mountains, of serrated outline, and composed, probably, of a slaty rock; the nearest summit of which is called Grootkop * (Great Head, or Peak.) Several little half-naked Hottentot children, curious to know what I was doing, came round me, and crawled about on the ground before me, amusing themselves in playing with dust and dirt. The boys are most frequently seen with a whip in their hands, propor- tionably of the same unwieldy length as those which are used by the waggon-drivers; so that, from their very infancy, they begin to acquire a dexterous management of it. On the road from this place, we passed some large trees of Wagen- boom (Protea grandiflora), so called by the colonists because the wood of it has been found suitable for making the fellies of waggon-wheels. It is reddish, and has a very pretty, reticulated grain, which might, perhaps, render it deserving of being employed for ornamental fur- niture. It much resembles some of the cabinet-woods brought from New South Wales; which, in fact, are of trees belonging to the same natural order: thus giving to botanists an additional hint, that characters may possibly be discovered in the structure of the wood of plants, that may throw some wished-for light on a natural classifi- cation of vegetables. It is the largest: growing tree, of the Pro- teaceous tribe, in this part of Africa. It is found growing in dry, rocky places, with a trunk often a foot or more in diameter; and is remarkable for its exceedingly blue foliage. It is decorated with large handsome flowers of a pale yellow color, which, though four inches wide when fully expanded, are still inferior in size to ee of Protea cynaroides. Another proteaceous tree (Brabeium stellati- folium), sometimes exceeds the Wagenboom in the extent of its branches; but is smaller in the trunk. We passed many other species of the same order, and a great variety of shrubby plants * The word kop occurs very frequently in the names of places, and implies either a peak in a range of mountains, or a single hill. ge 194 THE HOT SPRING 14, 15 Aprit, adorning the hills and valleys; but which were over-topped by the Bezem-riet (Broom-reed), a large kind of Restio, which grew abun- dantly in several places. An elegant willow-leaved shrub. (Capraria lanceolata), was common in the beds of small rivulets. At five o’clock we reached Brand (or Brandt) Valley, and took up our lodging at the farm-house of De Wet. I immediately went to examine the Hot Spring, which is at a very short distance from the house, and found it much larger, and more remarkable, than the spring at Zwarteberg. It formed a shallow pond of about fifty feet across, of the most transparent water ; in the middle of which several strong springs bubble up through a bottom of loose white sand, and afterwards, flowing in a very copious stream, become a rivulet, which, for at least a mile and a half, continues so hot, that its course along the valley may, at any time of the day, but more particularly early in the morning, be traced by the steam which perpetually arises from it. The pond is sheltered by a small clump of white poplars, which thrive perfectly well, although growing at the very edge of the water, and bedewed with the hot steam, which ascends to their highest branches. No plant, it seems, can grow in the water it- self; but the margins of the bank are thickly covered with sedge. * Royena glabra, a Rhus, and a variety of plants, stood within the influence of its heat. The thermometer, when plunged into the pond, rose only to 144° (493 Reaum. ; 624 Centig.); but, to the hand, it felt nearly scalding hot, so that the immersion could scarcely be endured for a couple of seconds; and J have no doubt that the great heat of this spring would cause the death of any animal that should happen to fallin. Where it bubbles up out of the earth, it is, perhaps, a few degrees hotter. This water is pure and tasteless, and is used for all domestic purposes. Nothing resembling a deposition is any where observable; nor are its banks or channel at all discolored. The * Particularly Cyperus fascicularis (C. polystachyos. Lin. et Th.) y Cyp DOS OES 1811. IN BRAND VALLEY. 125 hill, from the foot of which it issues, has no remarkable appearance ; . at least, there-is none of that black, ponderous, earth or iron ore noticed at the Zwarteberg baths. At the distance of about three hundred yards from the source, two bath-houses have been built over the stream, the heat of which, even here, is almost greater than can be born by a person not gradually inured to it. These little buildings, being public pro- perty, were much neglected and dilapidated; and nothing could be in a more wretched, dirty, and ruinous state, than the huts which were meant to accommodate those who use the bath. At this time, a slave and a Hottentot, who had been sent here for the benefit of the water, occupied two of them; but their miserable lodging hardly afforded protection from the weather. I could not learn that this bath has any other medicinal virtues than what it derives from the mere heat of the water. Between the spring and the bath, where the stream has run a sufficient distance in the open air to allow it time to become a few degrees cooler, the bottom of the rivulet is covered with a beautiful sea-green Conferva, waving gracefully beneath the water, like long tresses of hair. In the days of mythology, this circumstance would have furnished the poets with the hint for a history of some lovely nymph metamorphosed into this rivulet, where her Hoy tne locks still remain to attest the truth of the story — ‘** Conticuére unde; quarum Dea sustulit alto Fonte caput, viridesque manu siccata capillos, ———— veteres narravit amores. 15th. At eight o’clock in the morning, we departed from this remarkable spring, having before us a long ride to the village of Tulbagh. ‘Taking a more westerly course in rounding the mountain which forms the head of Brand Valley, we entered the district or valley of Roodezand (Red-sand), formerly called Waveren. It is about forty miles long in a direct line, and several miles broad: its surface is flat, and but thinly sprinkled over with houses, although, 126 RIVERS OF THE COLONY. — COLOQUINTIDA. 15, 16 Apri, for this colony, it may be considered a populous tract. Nothing can be more grand than the lofty mountains by which it is enclosed on either side; especially those of Mostert’s Hoek (Mostert’s Corner). We forded the Breede (or Broad) river, which, at this season, is generally shallow, and divided into many little parallel rivulets ; but after the rains have fallen, it swells into a broad and impassable stream. It disembogues itself on the southern shore, into St. Se- bastian’s Bay; and is one of the seven principal rivers of the colony. These are, the Berg (Mountain), and the Oliphants (Elephants), on the western coast; and along the southern, the Breede, the Gaurits, the Camtoos, the Zondag (Sunday), and the Groote Visch (Great Fish) rivers. In several places I saree a great number of Coloquintida melons (Cucumis colocynthis) lying scattered on the ground, but connected together by the dry halm, as by a cord, all the leaves being decayed and entirely withered away. They resembled, in some degree, a common garden-melon ; but were perfectly glo- bular and smooth. Should this drug be introduced more gene- rally into medical practice in Europe, it may, perhaps, prove a source of profit not unworthy of notice, especially as the ope- ration of preparing them for exportation is attended with very little trouble or expense. ‘They are to be found in great abundance in many places, growing in the plains; the plant being widely dis- seminated over the whole of the extratropical part of Southern Africa. Every article of export from this colony, however small at first its amount may be, should be carefully encouraged, and the trade promoted ; because it cannot reasonably be expected, that a settlement which should be unable to export a produce of its own, sufficient as a return for the imported articles it consumes, can become rich and prosperous. At Dantje Hugo’s, where we halted to take some refreshment, we met with an Irishman, who had been residing with this boor several months, and. who seemed pleased at having an opportunity of entertaining his countryman, and of speaking English. Both here, 1811. THE PARSONAGE AT TULBAGH. 127 and at several farms on the road, we made enquiries for draught- oxen, but without success. Under the mountains westward of us, lay an extensive flat country, called Goudinie, (the original Hottentot name,) said to be very fertile; but I had little time for observation, as the day-light, drawing to a close, obliged us to make all haste ; and it was not be- fore the evening twilight had ended, that we arrived at Tulbagh. Here we were received with every mark of hospitality, by The Rev. Mr. Ballot, the clergyman of the village. This gentleman, before he came to the Cape, had lived several years at Malacca; and, in speak- ing comparatively of the two countries as a place of residence, de- cidedly gave the preference to Africa. Indeed, his situation here, appeared to me as one capable of affording every comfort and enjoy- ment. The parsonage-house was not only large, handsome, and com- modious, with a number of suitable offices and out-buildings, and a large garden attached to it ; but it stood in the most eligible spot, and commanded the principal view of the village ; that, of which a part is represented in the engraving at the head of this chapter. 16th. The village of Télbagh*, so named after a Dutch go- vernor, who died at the Cape in 1771, stands at the northern end of the valley of Roodezand, on a spot which, if pleasantness of situation and beauty of landscape should decide such a choice, has been judi- ciously selected. But the difficulty of access to it, from any other quarter than the south, is an inconvenience never to be obviated, and which must always continue to operate against its rising pros- perity. It seems probable, that the great inducement to erect a town in this place, was the circumstance of its being on the great north-eastern road; a consideration which ought to have its weight, but which should not have had a preponderance: for a town placed in a suitable part of a country, will never fail to draw towards itself a proportionate traffic. The number of houses and inhabitants has increased in a slower proportion here than in most of the other villages ; though there is no want of good water or garden-ground, * Pronounced Tiilbak. 128 THE VILLAGE OF TULBAGH. 16 Aprir, nor of fertile land in the vicinity. The town, at this time, was nothing more than half a score of neat white houses placed in a row, with here and there an intervening space between them; at the back of which were as many more of an inferior size.* In front, but on the opposite side of the road, and running under the shade of trees, is a strong rill of excellent water, led there, as well for the supply of the inhabitants, as for the irrigation of their gardens, which lie on a gentle declivity immediately below it; but no plan could be more in- convenient than that, which has been here adopted, of separating the gardens from the houses. At a few hundred yards from the lower, or southern end of the street, stands the church, a neat and respect- able edifice, built on the ground plan of a cross; as are, I believe, all the other churches in the colony. It is white-washed, and covered with a roof of thatch: it has no steeple; but the pur- pose of one is supplied by a belfry separate from the church, and which consists merely of two large square pillars of masonry, con- nected at top by an arch, under which hangs the bell. This is the usual kind of belfry for all the country churches. At. the distance of half an .hour’s walk northwards from the village, is the Drostdy, or official residence of the landdrost, a modern erection, surrounded by the dwellings of the secretary and subordinate civil officers. In placing the drostdy at so great a . distance from the village, the prosperity of the latter seems to have been unfortunately left out of consideration; for such an arrange- ment seems calculated to cause rather the desertion of it, than any increase of inhabitants; as experience in similar cases sufficiently * The Vignette at the head of this chapter represents the Village of Tulbagh, as viewed from the parsonage-house, and looking southward. ‘The mountains in the distance are those of the Roodezands Kloof. The houses are all white, and covered with thatch: in front of some of them are square pillars, supporting a trellis of vines; and a row of young oaks along the street, with a plantation opposite to them, of larger trees of the same kind, and a few pines, add greatly to the neat and pleasing appearance of this little village. Be- hind the spectator are the lofty mountains of Winterhoek; on his left, those of Mosterts- hoek; and on the right, those over which the Oud Kloof (Old Kloof) passes; neither of which are included in this engraving. 1811. WINTERHOEK 129 shows, that new-comers would prefer that situation which is nearest to the head buildings of the settlement. Some spot close to the village, would have been the only proper site; as well on account of adding to its size and importance, as of the greater convenience it would possess, on many occasions, for transacting public business. The two places are now distinguished from each other, by the names of Kerk-straat (Church-street), and the Drostdy. This latter is a large and handsome stuccoed building *, ornamented in front with a portico of three arches, to which the ascent is by a flight of steps. Jt contains several large and lofty rooms; together with a spacious council-room, in which public meetings, and the sittings of the judges at the annual circuit, are held. The mountains, that on each side bound the valle of Waveren, gradually approach each other as they run northward beyond Tul- bagh, increasing in elevation ; and at a few miles beyond the Drostdy, they unite, forming a nook called Winterhoek (Winter Corner), on account of the snow with which the summits here, are more fre- quently covered than in any other part of the range. The valley below is exceedingly romantic and secluded; but the surrounding mountains intercept the sun for some time after it has risen, and before it has set, to the more open parts of the country ; a circum- stance which, particularly in summer, is far from being disadvan- tageous. It contains several pleasant farms, and a number of streamlets, which, receiving a constant supply from the mountains, unite their waters to form the KAleime Berg (Little Mountain) river. This, running southward, finds a way, by the Roodezand Kloot, through the great western chain, and thence, by a north-westerly course, after joining the Groote Berg river, discharges itself into St. Helena Bay. 17th. Mr. Ballot having kindly furnished us with horses, in order that our own might be left to rest during our stay at Tulbagh, * A representation of the Drostdy is given at the end of the chapter. The distant mountain there seen is part of the lofty range of Winterhoek. At the back of the build- ing, or a little more to the right of the picture, is the Witsenberg range. S 130 DANGEROUS ROADS. 17 APRIL, we started at eight in the morning for an excursion to the top of Witsenberg, a mountainous ridge lying eastward of the village, at the distance of about an hour’s ride. Over this ridge there is a road, which is frequented by the boors, as it is the only pass from the Bokkeveld to this side of the country. The ascent is so steep, and the road so rocky and dangerous, that any person, unused to Cape travelling, would feel inclined to doubt the possibility of its being practicable for any sort of vehicle; if the track of wheels did not attest to him that waggons had in reality passed that way, and that it was a path in daily use. Huge blocks of hard sand-stone pro- truded themselves in the very middle of the road; and it is difficult to conceive how a waggon could pass over them, without being either shaken to pieces or overturned. The surface of the Bokkeveld being: much higher than the valley of Roodezand, occasions the ascent on the eastern side of the Witsenberg Pass to be so inconsiderable, that farmers with loaded waggons find it practicable to come thence to Tulbagh; but seldom attempt it in the contrary direction, and are therefore obliged to travel by another, and more indirect road. The inhabitants of this country, led by custom to view it as an ordinary affair, continue, at the hazard of their own lives, and of the destruction of their waggons and oxen, to make use of a road in this state, when, by the contribution of a trifling sum, and a few months’ labor, with the assistance of some pounds of gunpowder to blow up the rocks, it might be rendered quite as safe as the pass at Hottentot-Holland. The road-makers of this colony seem to have imagined, that, by carrying their road as directly over the moun- tain as possible, they are following the best, because the shortest line: but certainly an oblique, although longer ascent, would, on ac- count not only of:easier draught, but also of expedition, and even of an ultimate saving of expense, be the wisest mode. In making such roads, particular care should be taken, that no part of the ascent should have an elevation exceeding a certain number of degrees, up which the usual team of the country is able to draw a loaded waggon. From the top of this kloof, there is an unbounded prospect over the western half of the compass: Table Mountain, Paardeberg, 1811. EXCURSION TO WITSENBERG. 131 Contreberg, Riebek’s Kasteel, Huningberg, the sea at Saldanha Bay, Piguetberg, and the district of the Four-and-twenty-rivers, are seen in succession on turning the eye from the south-west round to the north-west. Tuble Mountain is seen very clearly and distinctly, though distant seventy miles in a direct line; and St. Helena Bay, which is at about an equal distance, is visible when the glitter of the setting sun is reflected from the water. In the north, the high peaks of Winterhoek rise up and intercept the view in that quarter. On the eastern side, a narrow valley, stretching along the foot of Witsen- berg, is walled in by a second and parallel range of mountains, called Schurfdeberg (Scurfy Mountain), on account of its rocky and rugged appearance. Southward, the view extends over the whole length of the valley of Roodezand, or Waveren. | On the rocky summit of this mountain, I found a great variety of plants, a large proportion of which | had not met with before. The beautiful nodding red flowers of Protea nana immediately caught my eye; and a multitude of new and interesting objects seemed as if soliciting me to admire them. I fancied they were crowding round me with complaints against the want of taste, the cold indifference towards them, and the apathy, which they expe- rienced from every body who passed their way. Some, I fancied, re- presented their having for many years produced blossoms of the most charming hues, and shed the softest perfumes, without any person hay- ing deigned even to cast an eye upon them. In this modest assembly of mountaineers were many whose names are well known in Europe* ; * Hermas gigantea Dilatris corymbosa - Liparia levigata Erica fastigiata Protea speciosa Cliffortia ilicifolia Liparia umbellifera Hermas depauperata Erica comosa Borbonia crenata Bupleurum difforme Stoebe ericoides Dodonea angustifolia Rafnia triflora Protea longifolia Stoebe virgata Leucodendrum plumosum Arnica inuloides Lobelia pinifolia Othonna tenuissima 132 A TRAVELLER’S THEODOLITE. 17, 18 APRIL, and others, who bore so strong a family likeness, that I guessed their names without hesitation. * The weather was exceedingly favorable to our rambles and we spent the whole of the day on the mountain top, enjoying the fine prospect and the freshness of the air, and gathering amusement at every step. Not having any instruments with me, and being desirous of taking the bearings of the distant objects which were in sight, I sup- plied the deficiency in the following manner. Having found a con- venient flat rock, I placed on it a large piece of drawing-paper, and secured it by bits of stone laid on each corner; then, by the help of my compass and a long flat ruler, I drew a line on the paper to repre- sent the magnetic meridian: after which the ruler was brought very exactly to the bearing of the object, by directing the sight along its edge ; and a line was then drawn by it, all across the paper, to which was written the name of the object. Though nothing can be more simple than this method, it will be found to be sufficiently correct, and of some use to a traveller who may happen to have with him no ma- thematical instruments ; as it combines all the properties of a theodo-.- lite, a protractor, and a field-book, and obviates the possibility of any great mistake in plotting; for, should there be an error in the meridian line, occasioned by the magnetic needle being drawn out of its proper Aulax pinifolia . Brunia nodiflora Xeranthemum canescens Protea amplexicaulis. Leucospermum puberum * Protea Hydrocotyle Xeranthemum Brunia Erica Phylica Antholyza ; Gladiolus Diosma Lightfootia Serruria Mesembryanthemum Restio , Aspalathus Leucospermum Rhus Leucodendrum Stabe Liparia , Blairia Arctotis Cliffortia, &c. 1811. ‘BOTANICAL EXPERIMENT. 133 direction by ferruginous rocks, the angular distances of the objects from each other will remain correct. It is not indispensably requisite that all the lines of bearing should pass through one central point in the meridian line, as they may at leisure, any time afterwards, be transferred to a centre by means of a parallel ruler; and, the paper being then properly placed on the map, the bearings may be pricked through, by which the purpose of a protractor is answered very accu- rately. On this principle, a traveller may construct a simple and port- able instrument, by a circular piece of wood, in the centre of which is fixed a short pin with a pointed top. On this, at the time of ob- servation, a piece of paper of the same size is filed; and over it Is fixed a moveable limb with sights, having its fiducial line correspond- ing with the centre of the pin. A magnetic needle may be added to the instrument, if not rendering it too complicated. Loaded on all sides with flowers and branches of shrubs, we descended to the plain; and those who met us as we were returning to Tulbagh, might have thought, as in Macbeth, that “ Birnam-wood was come to Dunsinane.” Night overtook us before we reached the parsonage, where hospitality and good humour concluded the day. 18th. My first care this morning was to preserve the botanical specimens which I collected yesterday ; and, as I had not the means of pressing and drying them in the usual manner between paper, | tied them carefully up in a large bundle, measuring about three feet long and a foot in diameter, binding them round as tightly as pos- sible with twine, and wrapping the whole with strong paper. This I left to be sent after me to Cape Town by the first Spporcumity, in- tending afterwards to press and dry them properly. This bundle, however, did not find its way to Cape evi till more than a twelvemonth afterwards, and remained in the same state for eight years, when, on unpacking it, every specimen was found to be in as good condition as if it had been dried in the regular manner, and to be equally fit for every purpose of scientific investigation. A few, indeed, were the worse for having been left ‘to shrivel up; but many, especially the more hard-leaved plants, preserved a more natural form than they would have done, 134 A MODE OF PRESERVING PLANTS. 18 APRIL, had they been pressed. ‘The chief inconvenience was found to con- sist in their not lying flat in the herbarium; but, by folding them up in a wet cloth, they became sufficiently relaxed to admit, with a little care, of being pressed flat enough for that purpose. I much regret that I was unacquainted with these facts at the time when I first travelled from Klaarwater to Graaffreynett. I had then no convenience for drying plants, but could, had I been aware of this method, have preserved, without trouble, any number of specimens I'might have desired. , I have been particular in relating these circumstances, because a knowledge of the complete success of such an experiment may be of use to those travellers who would desire to bring home specimens of the botany of some rarely-visited country, but who might have neither the means nor the time for the usual method. I would recommend for this purpose a pasteboard box, having a good num~- ber of large pin-holes pierced in the sides, for the purpose of ad- mitting air till the plants be sufficiently dried; and which, for safety while on the road, may be enclosed in a box of wood. It is unnecessary to give a more detailed explanation, as the above hints will readily suggest other particulars, and some further advan- tages of this method: but it should never be resorted to when the regular mode is practicable. There are, however, a multitude of plants which make the best specimens, and preserve the greatest resemblance to nature, when they are dried without any pressure. at all. While I was employed in making drawings of the village, Mr. Polemann attended an auction at a neighbouring farm, at which some draught-oxen were to be sold; but, as the biddings were as high as thirty-five rix dollars a-piece, which he considered to be more than their real value, he purchased none. ‘Therefore, as Mr. Mong, the Boode*, had informed me that proper oxen might be obtained in the Bokkeveld, at the price of three hundred rix- * A Boode is the official messenger of a Landdrost. 1811. PRICE OF OXEN. 135 dollars for a span (a team), he obligingly undertook the commission of selecting and purchasing two teams. A team of oxen consists of ten; a number which has been found necessary in this country for drawing a loaded waggon; and from this, some judgment may be formed of the general heaviness of the roads; while, in the more difficult passes, sixteen or twenty oxen are often required, — _ Having thus accomplished one of the principal objects of our present excursion, we prepared for departure on the following morning, under a promise, insisted upon by our kind host, that I should again take up my quarters at his house, when I passed through Tulbagh in my way out of the colony. Pon any ” (a: = SiMl, ial (S- } i il t 4 ine CHAPTER VII. RIDE FROM TULBAGH TO THE PAARL, AND THENCE TO STELLENBOSCH. Aprit 19th. Early this morning we took leave of Mr. Ballot, at whose house we had experienced the most friendly attention. Although strongly urged to remain a day longer, as the weather had every appearance of being rainy, we unfortunately resisted his per- suasion, and took our departure; but scarcely had we lost sight of the house, before the rain commenced. It continued to fall without intermission the whole of the day; yet still, undér, the hope that it might soon clear up, we resolved to keep on our way. At the entrance of the Roodezands Kloof (Red-sand Pass); we stopped to pay a trifling toll, which is levied to defray the expense of keeping this pass in repair. But it will readily be believed, that no more of the money is laid out on that service, than just sufficient to make it passable, when it is stated that these tolls 19 Apri, 1811. THE ROODEZAND PASS. 137 and repairs are farmed out by the government to individuals for a certain annual sum. Not far from this, over the mountains, there is another pass, now called the Oude Kloof (Old Pass), formerly the only road for waggons, although exceedingly steep, and carried over the very summit. The repairs of this have been quite neglected, and it is now made use of only by those who, to avoid the toll, drive their cattle over that way. The new pass is by far the best and the easiest, by which the country lying on the eastern side of the great western chain may be entered ; and it is very possible to make it still more so. It is one of the few chasms which completely divide the large ranges of mountains of the colony: though it is probable that there may exist - several more than have been hitherto taken notice of. This is the only cleft of this description in the western range; but in that which branches off from it at Winterhoek, and joins the great southern range at Swellendam, there are two, through which the Breede river at Mostert’s Hoek, and the Hex river at the Kloof of that name, flow ; and which are both used by the colonists as passes. In the great southern chain, there is a very remarkable gap, through which the waters of the Great Karro escape, and form the Gaurits river; but through this no practicable road has yet been made. Roodezands Kloof is a narrow winding defile of about three miles in length, just wide enough to allow a passage for the Little Berg river, on.each side of which the mountains rise up abrupt and lofty. Their rocky sides are thickly clothed with bushes and trees, from their very summits down to the water, presenting a beautiful and romantic picture, adorned with every variety of foliage. Along the steep and winding sides, a road * has been cut out, which follows the course of the river, at a height above it generally between fifty and a hundred feet; in one part rising much higher, and in an- other, descending to the bottom, and leading through the river, which, at this time, was not more than three feet deep, although * See the Vignette at the end of the ninth chapter of this volume. 40 138 THE MOUNTAIN-HORSE. 19 APRIL, often so much swollen by the rains, as to be, for a day or two, quite impassable. The unfavorable state of the weather prevented our halting for a minute to take a look around us: the rain poured down in such torrents, as frequently to shut out our view entirely. To a tra- veller, nothing is more vexatious, both to his patience and to his curiosity, than to find himself in the midst of beautiful scenery, without being permitted to contemplate and admire it; or even to catch a glimpse of it but through streams of rain. We rode nearly three quarters of an hour before we cleared the mountains, and entered upon the open road. The course, and frequent falls of the river, prove that the valley of Roodezand lies at a considerably higher level than the country westward of these mountains. In such weather, we could not enjoy our ride through the division of Drakenstein, which is accounted the most cultivated and beautiful part of the colony. It lay on our left, and occupies the fertile flat country, stretching along the foot of the mountains, from Roodezands Kloof to the village of the Paarl. | We halted for a few minutes at the door of a farm-house, to procure a cup of wine, when its owner, Piet Van der Merwe, wished to persuade us to remain under shelter, offering, at the same time, to have a fire lighted in one of the rooms, that we might dry our clothes; but, as it was not possible for the rain to make us more wet than we were, we resolved to proceed. We passed Paardeberg (Horse Mountain), which was. situated at a little distance on: our right, and Wagenmaker’s Valley on the left. ‘The former was so named from the Wilde Paard (Wild Horse), which, at that time, inhabited it; for, at the present day, not one is to be found there. This beautiful animal has been hitherto confounded by natu- ralists with the Zebra*. When these were first described by modern * «6 Nous ne savons pas comment Buffon a pu dire que le zebre mile était rayé de « jaune et de noir, et la femelle de blanc et de noir.” — Cuvier; ‘ Menagerie du Muséum National,’ article Zébre: which, according to the figure and description there given, is the Equus montanus. 1811. QUAKKA AND ZEBRA. 139 writers, the Quakka * was considered to be the female Zebra; while both that and the true Zebra bore in common, among the colonists, the name of Quakka. The Wilde Paard, named Dauw t by the Hot- tentots, and a much scarcer animal than the other two, was never suspected to be a different species, although it be far more distinct from the Quakka and Zebra, than these are from each other. The hoofs of animals destined by nature to inhabit rocky moun- tains, are, as far as I have observed, of a form very different from those intended for sandy plains; and this form is, in itself, sufficient to point out the Dauw as a separate species. The stripes of the skin will answer that purpose equally well, and show, at the same time, the great affinity, and the specific distinction, of the Ass (Zquus Asinus), which may be characterised by a single stripe across the shoulders. The Quakka has many similar marks on the head and fore-part of the body: the Zebra is covered with stripes over the head and the whole of the body; but the legs are white: and the Wilde Paard is striped over every part, even down to the feet. The Zebra and Wilde Paard may be further distinguished from each other, by the stripes of the former being brown and white, and the brown stripe being double ; that is, having a paler stripe within it {: while the lat- ter, which may be named Equus montanus, is most regularly and beautifully covered with single black and white stripes. Added to this, the former is never to be found on the mountains, nor the latter on the plains. § The most beautiful part of Drakenstein is Wagen-makers’ (Wag- gon-makers’) Valley ; and the Dal van Josaphat (Vale of Josaphat) is not less pleasant. The farms lie nearer together, and population and fertility appeared to increase in proportion as we advanced towards the Paarl. We approached the Berg river with some anxiety, lest it should * Equus Quagga, of authors. + Pronounced Dow, as in the English word dower. t See the Vignette at the end of Chapter XI. § I have presented all these three animals to the British Museum, where the dis- tinctions here pointed out may readily be seen. Tt 2 140 BERG RIVER.— VANDERBYL’S. 19 APRIL, not be fordable; but found it not yet risen higher than four feet. The ford, which had rather the appearance of a lane, led us through the tall, thick Palmite, with which the river was, in this part, so choked up, that its waters seemed as if struggling to find a passage between their stems. It would be very unsafe, without great care, for a traveller to ford a river of this kind; for should he, by the force of the stream, be carried into the Paliaitess he might find the greatest difficulty in extricating himself or his horse from amongst their entangled trunks. This ford, by turning obliquely, and in different directions, was so lengthened as to occupy us.ten minutes in passing through. Means for crossing this river, when too deep to be forded, have been provided by building a Pont (Ferry-boat), at a place a little further up the stream. * At three o’clock we arrived at the village of the Paarl, and alighted at the house of an opulent wine-farmer, named Vanderbyl, with whom my fellow-traveller had a previous acquaintance, and from whose son-in-law, the landdrost of Tulbagh, he was the bearer of a letter. ° We were met by him at the door, and were received and wel- comed in the usual form. The pitiless rain had pursued us to the end of our journey, and our drenched appearance rendering it unne- cessary to ask for a room where we might change our clothes, we were immediately shown into an apartment; but, on opening our portmanteaus, we discovered that nearly the whole of our linen was wet. We, however, consoled each other in our disappointment, by the expectation of dinner; for, having made known that we had been riding ever since eight o’clock, we did not suppose there would be any further necessity for hinting that some refreshment would be acceptable. We took our seat at one end of the voorhuis with the master of the house, with whom we spent nearly two hours in conversing on various topics, but chiefly on the subject of my projected journey * See the 24th of June, 1811, and Plate 3. Isl. COLONIAL MANNERS. 141 into the interior. At last our conversation exhausted itself: our host rose, and went out of the room, we doubted not, to reprimand the servants for their unusual delay in bringing in the dinner, it being now past five o’clock. In the interim, being alone, we had nothing better to amuse us, than the view from the window; whence we had only a melancholy prospect of the rain, which deluged the ground, and left us without hope of being permitted to take a walk to see the village. The hour of six passed by without any symptom of dinner ap- pearing : seven also passed, and eight ; but still nothing was offered us to eat. At intervals we resumed the conversation, in which the lady of the house and her daughters sometimes joined. This produced a more agreeable variety, which, together with the friendly manners of her son, who spoke English very well, relieved the tedium of so many hours, but could not repel the imperious craving of hunger, which, like the Spartan youth with the fox under his cloak, we had the fortitude to conceal, though we felt it gnawing our vitals. At last, when nine o’clock arrived, several slaves followed each other with dishes of hot meat and stews, and as many of vegetables cooked in different ways. With these, and other things, a large table was soon covered, while wine-glasses and bottles occupied the intermediate spaces. So plentiful was the display, that my com- panion was equally surprised at it with myself; and it was now evi- dent, that some pains had been taken to prepare a supper better than ordinary: and, whatever might have been our thoughts previ- ously to this, we fully acquitted our host of intentional neglect. All those attentions which hospitality prompts, were shown to us by every part of the family, who evinced a real desire to please. This occurrence served to exemplify, and to teach me, with most impressive effect, a common feature in colonial manners. It has been already mentioned, that in this country no inns are any where to be found; consequently, the necessity of the case, as well as common humanity, urges every Christian-like colonist to open his door to the hungry or benighted traveller. And, as this hospi- tality becomes reciprocal, by their occasionally passing each other’s 142 RED, AND WHITE ALDERS. 20 ArRIL, houses, they feel no hesitation either in asking such favors, or in granting them. ‘Thus a boor is never at a loss for a meal on the road; and as the customary time of dinner is about noon, he, without much ceremony, unsaddles his horse at any door where he may happen to come at that hour. If he arrive later, he is supposed to have dined at some other place on the road, and the question whether he may be in want of refreshment, is considered superfluous: but in most parts of the country, a cup of tea is generally presented to him, without any regard to the time of day. It is therefore a boor’s own fault if he lose his dinner. Those who travel in waggons, and who most frequently carry thei: provisions and cooking utensils with them, are looked upon as not standing in need of assistance, though such persons freely make use of those houses where they have any acquaintance with the family. 20th. The weather this day was more favourable; and not- withstanding the ground was still wet from the rain of yesterday, the sunshine tempted us to go out of doors. We were conducted to see the kitchen garden; and in the wine cellar, two casks were pointed out as being reputed the largest in the colony. We were also shown a corn-mill, of very good though simple mechanism, worked by an overshot wheel. In almost every farmer’s garden, a clump of Bamboo-cane may be seen growing ; which, though an elegant and ornamental plant, is no where cultivated on that account, but merely for the uses to which its cane is applicable; and principally for whip-stocks, as possessing the desirable qualities of strength and lightness. Of these I now pur- chased a number for the use of my journey. In a walk to the foot of the mountains behind the house, I rae met with Cunonia Capensis, growing wild in the damp rocky places along the banks of a rivulet. This is a handsome tree, with fine shining green foliage, contrasted by numerous dense, elongated bunches of small milk-white flowers, and twigs of a red color; having the habit rather of a tropical, than of a Cape, plant. Its colonial name is Rood Elze (Red Alder), although the tree has not, in any point of view, the least resemblance to the Alder of Europe; but 1811. CAPE MISSLETO.— POISON-APPLE. — DIOSMA. 143 the waggon-makers say, there is some similarity in their wood. I am, however, inclined to believe that the name was given rather on account of their growing in similar situations: and this seems the more probable, as the name of Witte Elze (White Alder) is applied to another tree (Weinmannia trifoliata) which naturally grows in the same kind of places as the common Alder. In moist.places I met with Erica pubescens growing luxuriantly, and covered with a profusion of little pink flowers ; this is one of the commonest of the Cape heaths. Growing on the branches of Cassine Capensis, 1 found the Cape Missleto, a very curious parasitic plant, bearing small white berries, but without leaves, and exceedingly brittle. * A kind of wild cucumber + spreads itself over the bushes and along the ground, bearing a small yellow oval fruit hardly an inch long, covered with soft prickles, and called Gift-Appel (Poison-apple) on account of its extreme bitterness; in which quality it agrees with the Coloquintida, and several of the Cucumber tribe. The‘ African Sage’ { is an ornamental flowering shrub, of very frequent occurrence. All the Diosmas when bruised, give out a strong odor more or less pleasant ; so that, in walking, it is not easy to tread on a plant of this tribe without being made sensible of it by the smell. By this means I discovered a species § which otherwise might have escaped my notice. The baboons|| which inhabit this mountain in great numbers, are very troublesome by committing depredations on the neighbouring gardens ; and various stories are told both of their ingenuity and of their stupidity, which, not having it in my power to confirm, I shall not here repeat. Soon after noon we took leave of the family of Vanderbyl, and commenced our ride to Stellenbosch. We passed through the Paarl Village, which consists of between forty and fifty very neat houses, placed at a considerable distance from each other, and forming a single street, about the middle of which stands * The Vignette at the end of this chapter is a figure of the Viscum Capense, or Cape Missleto, of the natural size. ; + Cucumis prophetarum. t Salvia Africana. § Diosma capitata. || Cercopithecus ursinus. 144 THE PAARL. — FRANSCHE HOEK. 20, 21 Apnit, x the church. This village appeared to be by much the most agree- able and pleasant situation, as a residence, of any I had hitherto seen, and is superior to Stellenbosch in rural beauty. Those who would be desirous of passing a few months from Cape Town, for the sake of the amusements and pleasures of a country life, would not be disappointed by taking up their abode at the Paarl, where, within a short ride or a walk, a great variety of scenery may be found. It takes its name * from the neighbouring mountain, on the summit of which, among others, of the same kind, is an enormous rock called the Paarl (the Pearl), having, at the distance at which we viewed it, the rounded form and outward appearance of granite. Leaving the village, we continued our way along a level sandy country covered with bushes, among which the Protea corymbosa predominated. It may easily be distinguished by its long slender upright stems about four feet high, (having at top a corymbe of short branches) springing from a dense base of suckers and leaves ; a singularity of growth not observed in any other proteaceous plant. Small trees of Rhus villosum, ten or twelve feet high, were not unfrequent. ; We passed through one end of the division of Drakenstein, which, with Fransche Hoek (French Corner), may be called the vineyard of the colony. Fransche Hoek, which lay on our left in a deep and extensive bosom or bay of the mountains, was the spot where vine- yards were first established by the French refugées already men- tioned. The mountains which surround it, are lofty and sublime, having their craggy summits divided into rocky masses of the grandest forms. During a heavy shower, we took shelter, near a farm house, under two very fine oak trees, the largest which I had seen in the colony: their trunks measuring between four and five feet in diameter. A little further on, we came to a very romantic pass between steep and high mountains, where, in the ravine below the road, the noisy waters of a torrent were hastening down its rocky bed. This * Perhaps more properly written Paarldorp. BANGHOEK. — STELLENBOSCH. 145 place, the name of which is Banghoek, appeared a most delightful spot; and being in many parts quite woody, the scenery is extremely beautiful and picturesque, and capable of affording some charming studies for the landscape painter ; who could not fail to improve in his art by the imitation of those wild beauties, such as nature here presents. The road leading down a long descent, seemed in most places to consist of pure clay, as we judged from its slipperiness, much increased by the rain which fell during the afternoon. As we rode on, the darkness of night closed over us: we were often doubtful of the way, till occasional flashes of lightning showed us the road. At last, about seven o'clock, we reached Stellenbosch, where we took up our quarters at the house of a gentleman of the name of Morel, a particular friend of my companion. Ast. During the intervals between the showers, 1 walked out to view the town. Stellenbosch, so named in 1670*, after its founder, Governor Van der Stell, is a place of much greater extent and importance than any of the other villages, and consists of a number of streets intersecting each other at right angles.. A great part, however, of the space comprehended in the size of the town, was occupied by gardens, which, with an avenue of trees planted along almost every street, produced a cool and pleasing effect. Many of the houses were not inferior to those of Cape Town; their appearance was neat and clean, and gave altogether the idea of an agreeable and cheerful place of abode. A few years-j previous to our visit, a great part of the town was destroyed by fire; but from so distressing an occurrence resulted one advantage, that the original thatched cottages were now replaced by buildings of a better style of architecture. At the lower end of the principal street, is a spacious military parade; at the upper end, stands the church, built in 1722.{ This edifice, is represented by the vignette at the head of * Thunberg’s Travels. + In the year 1803. ¢ According to Lichtentein. 146 THE VILLAGE OF STELLENBOSCH. 21 Apri, this chapter. In an open square, near to the church, is the Drostdy, or residence of the Landdrost, a large and commodious building. At the back of this, flows the erste (First) river, having its source in the great mountains rising up immediately behind the town. These mountains are a part of the Great Western chain, already noticed, and constitute an essential feature in the beauty of the situation. A number of new dwellings are yearly increasing the size of the town, and the accommodations are superior to those of other villages, but the expences of living are said to be nearly the same as in Cape Town; from which it is distant, due east, not more than thirty miles. A stage-waggon carries passengers to and from the Cape, and the post arrives and returns twice a week. From its proximity to the metropolis, it is much better known to 3 foreigners, and to the English, than any of the other villages: a more detailed description of it in this place, 1s therefore the less necessary.* The country immediately surrounding the town, offers no beauty. of scenery to charm the eye ; but the mountains form a back-ground of the finest kind, and are of so great a height, that, for several days in the winter, their rugged summits are capped with snow. ‘These I much desired to ascend, in order to examine their productions, but the weather would not allow us to make the attempt. I have the less reason to regret this disappointment, as it happened that circumstances, four years afterwards, put it in my power to explore a neighbouring part of this range, and to add to my collection several things which are peculiar to these mountains, and which will be more particularly mentioned in another place. At two o'clock in the afternoon, we left Stellenbosch to return to Cape Town, and were again unfortunate in the day, which, soon after our departure, set in with rain and wind; and, to increase our misfor- tunes, one of the horses fell lame, while the other stumbled at every * J visited Stellenbosch again in April 1815, when I found a considerable increase in houses had taken place, and the town much improved. I profited by this opportunity to make several drawings of it: the Vignette at page 136 is a part of one of them. 1811. RAIN. — INUNDATION OF THE DOWNS. 147 step. It was evidently time that our excursion ended; for this last day’s journey being, for nearly the whole way, over the heavy loose sand of the Cape Flats, was excessively fatiguing and painful to the animals. At sunset, we passed the foot of Tygerberg, and were soon afterwards overtaken by a night of impenetrable darkness, and both wet and chilly. To the fear of losing the way, was added that of finding the sands impassably flooded by the late rains, as, at almost every five minutes, we had to wade through ponds of rain-water. It may seem singular, that plains of sand should be found covered with standing water ; but this is easily accounted for, by a stratum of clay lying immediately beneath the sand, at the depth of from one to perhaps six feet or more. In the midst of our uncertainty, wandering in various directions, a glimmering light at last appeared at a distance, and enabled us to shape our course to Salt river. Here we procured a guide to conduct us safely through the river, which occupied ten minutes in wading through, as it had overflowed its banks and inundated a great part of the adjoining flats; and nearly all the way to Cape Town, we seemed to be travelling in a river rather than a road. So complete was the darkness, that when arrived at the hospital, it was not possible to find our way, even the short distance to the castle without a guide: the atmosphere seemed as if bereft of every par- ticle of light. At length, at eight o’clock, we reached Cape Town. aime, ‘i — io a aa A CHAPTER VIII. RESIDENCE AT CAPE TOWN, AND FREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY. Aprit 23d. The objects principally in view in the foregoing excursion, had all been attained, excepting that of hiring Hottentots for the ser- vice of the journey. But I did not doubt, should I succeed in ob- taining Jan Tamboer, that he would be able to engage as many of his countrymen as would be required. The petty deceptions which are often practised on this race of people render them in general suspicious of the promises of white men; but if one of their own tribe should undertake to persuade, they readily listen to every thing he says, and often assent without giving themselves the trouble of examining the proposal; relying more on the word of a Hottentot than on all the arguments and promises of acolonist. I therefore considered it the better mode to depend on this man for the management of these affairs. Nothing, however, could be done till his discharge from the regiment had been granted: for that purpose I waited on the 1811. DESCRIPTION OF A CAPE WAGGON. 149 Governor, to solicit it; when he very politely and readily promised to do all that depended on him for procuring the man’s release. 30th. At the end of the month my waggon was finished and sent home. The price I paid for it, exclusive of the tilt, and all the other separate articles required in travelling, was 585 rix dollars, at that time equal to eighty-eight pounds sterling ; in addition to which, the fitting up of the inside with chests and various conveniences, amounted to a considerable sum. The length of it was fifteen feet, and breadth at bottom two feet nine inches. The frame work of the tilt was made of bamboo cane, covered over with Hottentot mats, above which there was.a painted canvas; and over all a covering of sail-cloth, having a flap to close up the ends, rendered the whole impervious to rain. * The height, from the bottom of the waggon to the top of the tilt, was five feet and a half The sides (/eer) were two feet high in front, gradually rising up to two feet and three quarters at. the back, and painted on the out- side. The rail that forms the upper and lower edge of the sides, is dis- tinguished by the colonists, by the names of opper-leer-boom, and onder- leer-boom. The planks of the bottom (buik plank) were two inches thick. The axletrees were perfectly horizontal and tapering. A bar of iron an inch and a half wide, called the scheen, is let into the underpart of them, to receive the friction of the wheel. Besides a set of linchpins of the common form (steek-/ens), there is another to be used occasionally, named platte-dens, having a broad head, like an umbrella, to shelter the end of the nave and axletree from the mud and sand which might drop from off the upper fellies. The diameter of the hind wheels is five feet, of the fore wheels three feet and a * The engraving at the beginning of this chapter, represents the geometrical elevation of the waggon, with the canvas partly rolled back to show the formation of the tilt, drawn from an actual measurement of every part, and proportioned to the scale of English feet marked beneath it. At the end of the chapter may be seen a transverse section ofit, according to the same scale ; together with all the different articles necessary for its equipment. By the help of these two engravings, and the following description the excellent construction, and peculiar advantages of a Cape Waggon, will be easily understood. 150 DESCRIPTION OF 30 APRIL, half; and their distance apart five feet. The tire (band) is of one piece, and in width two inches and a half. The whole of the wheels, axletrees, and parts connected with them, constituting what the boors call the onderstel or carriage, is well covered with tar.. Those parts belonging to, and joined with, the fore pair of wheels, are denominated the voor-stel ; and those to the after pair, the agter-stel. On the top of each axletree lies a strong piece of timber, called the skammel, upon which the buik plank or bottom of the waggon rests. Into each end of the skammels, is strongly morticed an upright piece named the rong, against which the sides rest, and by which they are prevented from spreading outwards. A strong bolt of iron runs through the fore-skammel, and connects it with the axletree which turns upon it; but the after-skammel is firmly confined to its axle- tree by iron bands. The langwagen is that beam which connects the two axletrees together, and for safety, in case of its suddenly breaking by any accident, a long separate bar of iron, called the izer (iron) langwagen, is added. Behind the after axletree is fixed the trap (or step), a wooden frame serving both as steps to assist in getting into the waggon, and, usually, as a convenient place for the cooking utensils. Through the middle of the fore axletree, passes a strong piece of timber, called the tang ; the fore end of which is shaped into two cheeks between which the pole is bolted, and is free to move vertically only. The pole (disselboom) is ten feet long, having at the end a strong iron staple ; the .tang-arms are two curved (they ought rather to be straight) bars of iron; one on each side,. connect- ing the end of the tang with the ends of the axletree. Their use is to support the tang in the act of turning the waggon; the tang is,.as it were, a continuation of the Jangwagen, with which it is connected by a horizontal joint. The wheels are of that form, technically called ‘dishing’ wheels, and stand vertically. The tilt (¢ent) is made shorter than the waggon, for the purpose of leaving an open space in front, of about two feet and a half; where there is a raised seat or box for the driver. The /igter (lifter) is a strong lever, about eight or nine feet long, the fulcrum of which is an upright piece of timber, called the ligter-voet or lever-foot, about two feet and a half high. This is 1811. A CAPE WAGGON. 151 used for hoisting up the axletrees when the wheels are taken off to be greased. The ¢eerput (tar-bucket) is usually suspended from a hook in the onder le’erboom. The drag-chain is fixed to a ring in the afterpart of the tang, behind the fore axletree. The remschoen (lock-shoe or skid), is a log of wood, generally about eight inches square, and nearly two feet long, having a groove in it to receive the felly of the wheel ; and is furnished in front with a stout loop of twisted raw hide. The manner in which the wheels are skidded, may be seen by the preceding engraving: it obviates the great danger which would arise from the skid suddenly flying from under the felly, as, in this mode, the wheel in such case would still remain locked. The trektouw (draw-rope or trace), is a long rope made of twisted thongs of raw hide, made fast by a hook to the staple at the end of the pole, and having iron rings attached to it at proper distances, into which rings the yokes are hooked. The yokes * are straight, and pierced with two pair of mortices to receive the juk- schei which fits in loosely, and answer to what in English husbandry are called the dows: but are merely two straight pegs, one on each side of the ox’s neck, and having notches on their outer sides to receive the nek-strop (neck strap) The riem (or halter), is a leathern thong about twelve feet in length, with a noose at one end, by which it is fixed round the ox’s horns. It is used for holding and managing the animal, while yoking and unyoking; and afterwards for making it fast, if necessary: it is always left coiled round its horns, except when turned loose to graze. The whip, and the shambok have been already described. + The principal and very important advantage of a Cape-built waggon consists in its sides, bottom, and carriage, not being joined * The engraving at the end of the chapter exhibits in their relative proportion, according to the subjoined scale, the various articles here described : a yoke with its neck- strap, &c., complete; the drag-rope; the pole; the halter; the skid; the lever; the whip, and the shambok; together with a horizontal plan of the fore axletree, and part of the pole; besides a vertical section of the fore wheels, axletree, body of the waggon, and tilt. + At pages 52 and 86. 152 ADVANTAGES OF A CAPE WAGGON. 30 Apr. 22 May. together; a construction admirably well adapted for rough and uneven roads, by admitting each part to play freely, so as completely to avoid that straining and cracking to which solid built waggons are subjected, when travelling over irregular ground. The agter stel and voorstel are, in their movement, independent of each other; being held together only by the langwagen, which by its joint, moves either way. The sides resting on the skammels, lean against the rongs, and are united to the tilt, only by the ribs which are elastic and yield to every motion: they are, besides, each kept in their place by a single thong of raw hide, passing under the end of the after skammel through two staples in the lower leerboom. The brick plank simply rests on the skammels, and is confined in its place only by two pieces of iron, which pass, one before, and the other behind the after skammel. The bolt, on which the fore axletree turns, is not rivetted nor pinned through ; by which means it is at liberty to draw out a little upwards to relieve the rocking of the waggon, when any one of the wheels is much lifted up by a hillock or other unevenness in the ground. The preceding description of my waggon, which, although one of the largest dimensions, was made exactly in the manner of the usual ox-waggon of the colony, will not only be found useful for showing how excellently they are constructed for the purpose of travelling over an uncultivated country, but will, as an excuse for its length, enable the reader to comprehend many passages in this journal in which the mention of the different parts of a waggon cannot but frequently occur. My undertaking was generally looked upon in Cape Town as an imprudent attempt, after the failure of an expedition, in which, previously to its setting out, every precaution had been taken, and provision made, to ensure its success; and whose numbers and strength so much exceeded mine. Notwithstanding this, a person, who had already expressed some desire to ac- company me, now came seriously to make the proposal, and very earnestly volunteered his services as my companion and assistant. He possessed, indeed, qualifications which would have rendered him both a useful, and an agreeable associate; yet I sacrificed my in- clination to my judgment, and preferred being quite alone. I feared those disagreeable, and often fatal, consequences, which arise 1811. COMMENCEMENT OF WINTER.— GREEN-POINT. 153 from a want of harmony between the members of such an expedition, too much to suffer myself to listen to my natural wish for a com- panion. Yet I must confess that there were often moments during my subsequent travels in which I severely felt the want of some companion, whose assistance and advice might have relieved my daily fatigues, and the anxieties of my mind. 22nd. At this season the weather is generally rainy at the Cape, although in the present year they set in earlier than usual, having fallen very abundantly in the months of April and May. The thermometer in Cape Town during this time, stood ordinarily about 55° Fahr. (10°2 Reaum; 12°7 Centig.) in the» morning, and 64° (14°2 R.; 17°7 C.) in the middle of the day. The winter might be considered as having already commenced; yet, excepting these rainy days, it was the most agreeable time of the year ; although, by persons habituated to a warm climate, it might be accounted rather chilly. The day being sunny and pleasant, tempted me to take a stroll on Green-Point. ‘The effect of the late rains was surprising: not six weeks before, the herbage seemed entirely parched up; vege- tation had disappeared, and the plain looked like a barren waste ; but the sterile plain was now changed to a verdant field, and myriads of gay flowers had started up out of the earth. Those who have seen this spot only in the summer, would never suppose that a soil so arid and bare, contained such an astonishing quantity, and such a great variety of bulbous roots. Blossoms of every color and every hue were at this time expanded to the genial warmth of the sun, and in such profusion that, from a little distance, some particular parts of the plain appeared as if painted red, others white, and others yellow. It is chiefly to the beautiful tribe of Ozalis that these en- livening effects are at this season attributable ; but not less so to two other extremely small and delicate plants,* which, in countless * Tria minuta and Strumaria spiralis. Of the uncertain flowering of many of the bulbous plants of this colony, the former, among a great many others, may be adduced as an example; since, by Thunberg, who for three years was indefatigable in collecting every where near Cape Town, it was considered as a rare plant. xo 154 ARRIVAL OF A PARTY OF HOTTENTOTS, 25—31 May, multitudes, whiten the soil. Later in the season other flowers spring up in their place, and colour the ground with other tints. Should any botanist allow himself the time, carefully to explore, at all seasons, every part of the Cape peninsula, including a portion of the isthmus, and afterwards publish a list of his collection, the lovers of the science would, I doubt not, be surprised, not only at the unexampled number of species growing in so small an extent of country, but at the number of undescribed plants that were still to be found in a tract, over which so many collectors have rambled. The importance and practical utility of local catalogues, pointing out the natural stations and circumstances of the native plants, will, it may be supposed, increase in proportion as the science advances, and as the objects it embraces become more multiplied. 25th. The party of Hottentots which had long been expected from Klaarwater*, arrived at Salt-river with their waggons and oxen. It consisted of about twenty men, with an equal number of women, and as many children ; besides three waggons and families left behind at Tulbagh. These people were nearly all of the mixed race of Hotebatetia + Their object, in making this long journey to Cape Town, was prin- cipally that of exchanging ivory and cattle for such manufactured articles as their present mode of life leads them to regard as necessaries. These were chiefly, gunpowder, muskets, lead, flints, porcelain beads, knives, tinder-boxes and steels, tobacco, woollen jackets and trowsers, horses and waggons. The quantity of ivory which they had now brought to town, was about a thousand pounds weight, which was sold to English merchants at the rate of seven schellings a-pound, Dutch weight: { their cattle had * Mentioned on the 18th of February, at page 64. + Denominated Bastaards by the colonists; which word is intended to signify Hot- tentots who are not of the genuine race, or who are sprung from parents, of whom one is not a pure Hottentot, whether the descendants of the colonists, or of any neighbouring tribe. This name is objectionable, as conveying to us a false idea; it will not, therefore, be thought an unnecessary innovation, if I use in its place, the term Mixed Hottentots, or, sometimes, that of Half-Hottentots. { One hundred pounds, Dutch weit are equal to one hundred and eight pounds avoirdupois, English weight. 1811. AND TWO OF THEM HIRED FOR THE JOURNEY. 155 been sold by the way to the boors, as they passed through the colony. As I had not yet received any decisive answer to the appli- cation I had made to the Governor respecting the Hottentot soldier, Mr. Anderson agreed to engage for me some of the Klaarwater Hot- tentots; but gave me to understand, that they would not be willing to go with me farther than their own homes. This was not, indeed, sufficient for my purpose; yet, as the time appointed for my de- parture was fast approaching, and considering that there might be some advantage in having with me, even thus far, men who were well acquainted with the country, I judged it advisable to hire two of them. Two days after this, Colonel Graham, who commanded the Cape regiment, obligingly sent to inform me that Jan Tamboer would receive his discharge, agreeably to my request. Still, how- ever, disappointment awaited me; for, on the 30th of the month, when I rode to Wynberg to hasten these arrangements, I found him lying sick in the hospital, although I hoped he was not so unwell as ultimately to be unable to undertake the journey. 31st. To-day the two Klaarwater Hottentots, whose names were Magers and Jan Kok, commenced their service, and came to receive their instructions. * Not yet habituated to men of this description, I could not sur- vey my future servants without a smile at their grotesque appear- ance. ‘Their dark African visage seemed at variance with their clothes of European fashion, made, indeed, so bunglingly, that they would not fit in any part. Their leathern trowsers had shrunk up * The Hottentots of the colony have universally adopted Dutch names, of which some are those of the colonists; and others have, probably, been given to them by the boors, as they seem to have been intended originally as characteristic epithets, applicable only to the individual to whom they were given: thus, Magers signifies meagre, or lean. Many of these are ridiculous, and their import was, perhaps, little understood by those who bore them; but they now pass current, and the families of Thickhead (Dikkop), and Rogue (Platje), and others of this kind, are respectable enough in the estimation of their countrymen. Ome 156 MAGERS AND KOK RECEIVE THEIR ORDERS. 31Mayv—2 June, towards the knee, and left their brown skin exposed; but the blue English jackets, as if to compensate the deficiency, were such as had certainly been intended for men of double the size. Their woolly heads were decorated with the new hats they had just purchased ; and shoes of their own making covered their otherwise naked feet. They introduced themselves with a respectful manner; but the Dutch they spoke was so peculiar, that I required the assistance of an interpreter. I showed them my waggon, which they minutely inspected in every part, and seemed more particularly to examine the wheels, shaking them to ascertain if the vehicle would run lightly ; when they gave their decision, that “ all was good.” They expressed themselves much pleased at having been selected for my service, promising that they would moot oppassen (take good care of every thing), and serve me faithfully. Magers’s son, a boy of about twelve years of age, was engaged to act as leader of the team. The whole of their wages was paid in advance, that they might profit by the present opportunity of laying it out to advantage in Cape Town. I gave them orders to go immediately to the Bokkeveld, to fetch my oxen; and, for their use during their journey thither and back, I provided them with a quantity of tobacco. So large a supply of an article which produces no small portion of their enjoyments, gave them a high opinion of the generosity of their new master, and inspired a cheerful briskness in their talk, and a wonderful alacrity in their motions: wonderful, at least, in a Hottentot. For my part, I was equally well pleased with them, and was not less delighted at the prospect of our departure. They then took leave, perfectly satisfied with the bargain, and hastened away to lay out their money, as the waggons of their countrymen, by which they were to send home their purchases, were, in a day or two, to start from Salt- river, and to proceed slowly on, to wait for us at the borders of the colony. This morning the thermometer was found to have sunk to 48° (7-1 R.; 8:8 C.). A new sight presented itself: the highest parts of the great western range of mountains appeared covered with snow. This remained unmelted for two or three days, although the temper- 1811. SNOW.— SECOND EARTHQUAKE. 157 ature of the air around the lower part of the mountains is never cold enough to allow snow to fallthere. It is, therefore, only by what they see at a distance on these summits, that those who reside always in Cape Town can become acquainted with this phenome- non. June 2nd. This day the warmth was greater than is usual at this season, the thermometer having risen to 70° (16°8 R.; 21°1 C.) A thick haze filled the atmosphere, yet did not weaken the power of the sun, which shone with the more effect, as the air continued un- disturbed by the least breath of wind. This state of the weather brought to mind the earthquake of the preceding year; and it after- wards appeared, that those who thought so were not mistaken in their interpretation of the symptoms. The weather, during the forenoon, had been warmer than usual ; (the thermometer 75°) and the air was calm and perfectly tranquil. At this time I was in my room occupied in preparations for the journey: a part of the garrison, having been exercising on Green- Point, were returning to their barracks, when a sudden and violent explosion shook the whole house, with a noise as loud as that of a cannon fired close at the door. In three or four seconds after this, another report, still more violent and sharp, like the loud- est clap of thunder, shook the building more forcibly than the first ; and at the same moment I felt a strange and unusual motion. The atmosphere at that instant was agitated by a dreadful concussion. The whole of this occurrence did not take up more than the time of five or six seconds; the day still continuing very fine and the sky perfectly cloudless. There remained a dead calm, and the air was suffused with a misty vapor, such as may often be seen in hot, damp weather. At the first explosion, it was naturally thought that one of the field-pieces, which were then passing by the house, had by some accident exploded; but the second being too violent for the effect of a cannon, I immediately supposed that one of the powder magazines had blown up; and even imagined that the report might have been occasioned by two of my barrels of gunpowder. which I had received from the magazine the day before. 158 SECOND EARTHQUAKE, 2 JUNE, I hastened out of doors to ascertain what had happened; but when I came into the street, and beheld all the inhabitants rushing out of their houses in wild disorder and fright ; some pale and trem- bling, running up and down, unconscious whither they were going ; mothers distracted at not finding their children with them; and every one with terror depicted in his countenance, crowding into the open street; when I beheld this, I instantly guessed that an earthquake had happened, for no answer could be got from those to whom I addressed the question ; fright prevented their hearing what was said. As soon as this conviction gains possession of the mind, our sensations, which, till then, may have been only those of sur- prise, assume a new and peculiar character. To those born in a country where these convulsions of nature happen frequently, such an occurrence as this may perhaps occasion little uneasiness : but to. others who, for the first time in their lives, feel that the ground they walk upon is not immoveable, an earthquake, with all the dangers which may possibly accompany it, is an event which cannot fail to excite considerable alarm. Every body stood for a while in dreadful expectation of the catastrophe. Nothing could be more distressing than to witness the terror of the women; some in tears, others trembling and speechless, and none seeming to know what they were about, or where they were. All had fled out of their houses with the utmost precipitation, without hats or bonnets, just as they hap- pened to be dressed at the moment: and I believe that every indi- vidual inhabitant of Cape Town, men, women, and children, ex- cepting those who from infirmity were unable to move, was, at that time, out in the street. There, all remained for at least an hour; and many for the whole day. As soon as the second explosion was over, the air immediately resumed its former tranquillity, nor was any other change perceptible, more than that of its becoming shortly afterwards a little cooler. Finding no further shock succeed, the inhabitants gradually recovered from their first alarm, and from the general confusion: the crowds slowly became thinner; yet still the greater number, afraid to trust themselves within their 1811. AND ITS EFFECTS. 159 houses, brought out chairs, and remained sitting on the ‘stupe,’ or in the street, the rest of the day. Walking afterwards about the town, to make several purchases for my journey, I was told that many houses were exceedingly rent, and some more materially damaged: but none were actually thrown down. At the mill, however, at Salt-river, the dwelling- house, it was said, had received so much injury, that the owner con- sidered it no longer safe or habitable. In the barracks great con- fusion arose from all the men endeavouring to rush out at the same instant. Many of the ornamental urns which had escaped the earth- quake of 1809, were now tumbled from the parapets down into the street: one on the top of the house where I resided, was shivered to pieces; and the wall of my bed-room was in the same instant divided by a crack which extended from the top of the house to the bottom. ‘The weather continued pleasant during the afternoon, and, be- fore night came on, the apprehensions of the inhabitants were in some measure quieted, as every one ventured to sleep in their houses, excepting four or five tents which were pitched on the Parade and in the Boer Plain. As for myself, I followed the example of others, in passing the night with my clothes on, that I might be ready to escape the more quickly out of the house, in case another shock happened before morning. This precaution was the result of past experience; for the for- mer earthquake, which commenced about nine o’clock in the even- ing, returned several times in the course of the same night. But it must be concluded, that these convulsions of the earth have no con- nection either with the time of the day, or with the season of the year, since they now took place at five minutes before noon, and in the middle of winter ; whereas the former happened in the middle of summer, and during the night. All the symptoms attendant on this phenomenon bore so much the character of electricity, that it could not easily be viewed in any other light than as the explosion of electric matter. But many of the good people of the town had quite another opi- 160 PHILIP ENGAGED 8 JUNE, nion: they coupled the comet, which had been seen every night since the 12th of the foregoing month, and the earthquake together, and drew from this two-fold portentous sign, the certain prognostics of the annihilation of the Cape. This event gave me the first opportunity of knowing, from experi- ence, something of the operation and effects of an effort of nature, regarded by all as formidable, but which, by the superstitious, is viewed as the manifestation of supernatural agency. But its true nature becomes, in every succeeding generation, more generally understood as the:result of laws established by the Divine Power at the creation. The night passed over undisturbed ; and on the following day there was no other difference perceptible in the state of the atmo- sphere, than that of its being much less loaded with hazy vapor. The sun shone bright and pleasant ; the universal fear, by degrees, subsided ; each one resumed his usual occupation, and business and money-making began, as heretofore, to animate every nerve, and to occupy every thought. 8th. Jan Tamboer still continued in the hospital very ill; and it was the surgeon’s opinion, that there was little likelihood of his being able to undertake the journey. This was a serious disappoint- ment, and not a trifling derangement of my plans; but it gave to the Colonel an opportunity of proving his readiness to oblige: for, on learning the circumstance, he directed enquiry to be made in the regiment for any other Hottentot who might possess the requi- site qualifications; and, by good fortune, one was found, who not only had been used to the management of a waggon and oxen, but who had formerly made a journey beyond the Gariep, into the country of the Bachapins. This man instantly accepted the offered appointment, overjoyed at exchanging a military life for one so much more congenial to his inclinations. Having neither family nor possessions, nor, indeed, any property at all, which he would be under the necessity of leav- ing unprotected, he was ready to start at a moment’s notice; and, as soon as he had received the trifling arrears of his pay, together with a furlough for twelve months, renewable from time to time, he bade 1811. FOR THE JOURNEY. 161 ‘ farewell to his comrades, many of whom would gladly have followed him, and hastened away to take possession of his new office. His name was Philip Willems. He was of small and compact figure, not above five feet high, steady and measured in his motions ; of a countenance possessing somewhat of a melancholy cast, and of a complexion rather darker than the generality of his nation. He was, however, a genuine Hottentot, and seemed to be about thirty years of age. His nose was very much depressed, so that the mouth or lips projected beyond it; and the chin was narrow, and cheek-bones high, like all. of his race; but the forehead had a good elevation. His hair, which had been lately cut, resembled nothing more than very small tufts of black wool, sprinkled over the skull so thinly, that the bare skin might be seen between them. He had scarcely any beard, excepting on the upper lip, where it was short and woolly. His eyes would be considered small, if measured by Eu- ropean proportions, but were rather large for a Hottentot: they exhibited a good deal of animation, the pupils being of a bright black, although the surrounding part of the ball was of a yellowish white. He seemed on this occasion to possess some vivacity and shrewdness; and I readily allowed myself to believe that I had now hired a man on whose qualifications and fidelity I might rely. I appointed him to be the foreman of the party, as well as the driver of my waggon; a post of dignity with which he appeared much pleased. After examining every particular part of the waggon with the same ceremony and attention as had been done by Magers and Jan Kok, he set himself to work to put the various apparatus in readiness for travelling. . His uniform, musket, and accoutrements having been given up to the regiment, my first care was to clothe him, and furnish him with bedding. Amongst the different articles of his equipment, he was most proud of a large watch-coat, in which, I believe, he fancied that he looked as big and important as a Dutch boor. I commissioned him to make enquiry among the Hottentots of his acquaintance, for the number of men still wanting to make up Y 162 OFFICIAL PAPERS. 8 —14 Jung, the complement of my party. He knew of several who happened to be at that time in Cape Town, and who, he thought, would be will- ing to go with us. With this view he went every day to the Pagter’s (the licensed retailer of wine and brandy), where, he said, he had no doubt of meeting with them. He was quite right in his idea of where his countrymen were most likely to be found, when they come up to Cape Town; for these pernicious wine and brandy- houses are commonly filled with these thoughtless creatures, who never leave them till every stwiver of their money is spent. Among the number which he saw there in the course of the week, not one could be obtained fit for the service, as all those whom he would have persuaded to join us, were unfortunately bound by legal con- tract to other masters. | There remained another resource in the Hottentot settlement under the Moravian missionaries at Groene Kloof, (Green Pass), and I immediately despatched a letter to Mr. Schmidt, one of the Brethren, requesting that, if any men could be found inclined for such a jour- ney, they might be sent to Cape Town as soon as possible. As, by the laws of the colony, every inhabitant is prohibited going beyond the established boundary, it became necessary that I should be provided with a special permission for that purpose. Ac- cordingly, I received from the Colonial Secretary’s office the proper document, and, together with it, another official paper which the Governor, to facilitate my views, ordered to be prepared for me. It was written in duplicate in the English and Dutch languages, and was addressed to * all Landdrosts, Field-cornets, and other inhabit- ants, requiring them to afford every accommodation in their power, and to provide every necessary I might stand in need of and require; and also to convey back to Cape Town such letters, parcels, &c. as I should have occasion to send.” Persons in the employ of govern- ment, are, when travelling in their official capacity, usually furnished with papers of this nature. The degree and kind of accommodation and assistance which this procured for me, will appear in the sequel. 13th. In the mean time, constantly occupied in getting all things 1811. MODE OF PACKING. 163 ready for my departure, I found little leisure for profiting by the various invitations which I received from my friends in Cape Town, and which multiplied as the day of taking leave of them drew nearer. Nor would I allow the thought that I was soon to bid, as I then believed, a final farewell to Cape Town, to seduce me to remain longer; although the hospitality and friendship I had ex- perienced might well admit of excuses for further delay. It was necessary that I should superintend every preparation, in order to be well acquainted with whatever concerned my outfit ; as the future management of every thing was to depend on myself alone. My numerous purchases were not to be completed with that facility and despatch with which they might have been made in a town of greater resources. On the morning of the 14th, the two teams of oxen, which Magers and Jan Kok had been sent to fetch from the Bokkeveld, having arrived safe at Salt-river, I fixed with peculiar pleasure the day on which we were to commence our journey, and gave orders for the waggon to leave Cape Town on the eighteenth. The following days were employed chiefly in packing all the various articles into the chest. This part of the work I had reserved for myself; because, unless I fixed in my memory the particular place of each article, by putting in every thing with my own hands, and making at the same time lists of the contents of each chest, it would be almost impossible, when on the journey, to find, amidst such a multitude and variety of goods, any thing I sought for. Those articles which were likely to come often into use, were placed uppermost, or where they could readily be got at; and not an inch of space was left unfilled, as well that no room might be lost, as to prevent the damage which the rough motion of the waggon would occasion to any thing which should get loose. I took with me no books of travels whatever; and if on account of this omission, I travelled through the country without the advantage of these to guide me in my observations, and direct my attention to those objects and facts which had been by others thought remarkable; I had, on the other y 2 164 CONTENTS AND 17 Jung, hand, the greater advantage of carrying with me a judgment un- biassed and unprejudiced by either the opinions or the mistakes, the ignorance or the misrepresentations of others. 1 wished to see things for myself, and to form my own opinions, independent of every guide but facts. For those who may feel a curiosity to know, more particularly, the contents of my waggon when it left Cape Town, and in the hope of its affording some assistance or useful hints to those who may hereafter undertake a similar journey, a list of some of the articles is here inserted. Goods as presents to the chiefs, and for Bags of shot, of all sizes bartering with the natives : — Gun-flints, and bullet-moulds Black, white, and blue porcelain beads, Lead and ‘tin, in bars. of a small size; these being the Carpenter’s tools: such as kinds most admired Saws Red porcelain and glass beads. These Hammers sorts were less acceptable Hatchets Gilt rings, with factitious gems Felling-axe Adze Brass rings Blue check handkerchiefs Blue check cottons Plain, gilt, and ornamented buttons Tobacco Snuff Snuff-boxes Knives Pocket tinder-boxes, and steels Looking-glasses Brass wire Sheets of copper and tin Spike nails. Sledge-hammer And a variety of the more useful sorts Spikes and nails Spades, pickaxe, and mattock. Waggon-stores. Ropes and lines Sacks, and canvas bags Spare canvas, and sail-needles Prepared ox-hide, and goat-leather Spare bamboo whip-stocks, and thongs Spare yokes, and halters Tar, pitch, grease, and resin Clothing and blankets for my own Hot- Spare linch-pins, hooks, and rings. tentots. A horn lantern Arms and ammunition : — A dark lantern Six muskets, and powder-horns An iron melting-ladle. A fowling-piece, and shot-belt The English colors. A large riffle, carrying a ball of the Provisions: — weight of two ounces Rice Two cases of pistols, and belt Bread and biscuit A cutlass Flour and wheat Musket balls Wine, rum, and brandy. Four barrels of gunpowder Fish-hooks and lines 1811. ARRANGEMENT OF THE WAGGON. 165 Water-casks. Dutch Dictionary A chest of select medicines. Nautical Almanacs Books: consisting of various works on Atlas Céleste de Flamstead; par For- zoology, mineralogy, natural philosophy, tin, (avec un Planisphére dés Etoiles mathematics, medicine, &c, ; amounting, Australes, dressé par M. l’Abbé de all together, to more than fifty volumes, la Caille.) among which were — A large assortment of stationary, and every Linné. Systema Nature, ed. Gmelini requisite for drawing in water and body- Species Plantarum, ed. Will- colours ; together with prepared canvas, denovil and the articles used for painting in oil. Fabricius, Species Insectorum Spare deal packing-cases. Jussieu, Genera Plantarum, ed. Usteri And a multitude of other things, which are Forster, Enchiridion Historia Natu- not necessary to be here particularly rali inserviens enumerated, Portuguese Dictionary It may, perhaps, seem difficult to immagine how so many things could be packed into a waggon of these dimensions ; and indeed this was not accomplished without much contrivance : but the fact is, that the waggon was greatly overloaded, as the event afterwards proved. Five very large chests, made to fit without any loss of space, occu- pied nearly all the body of the waggon, leaving but just room enough for one person to sit. To the inside of the tilt, were tied bags filled with a variety of things, such as were expected to come frequently into use : and bottles, muskets, pistols, powder-horns, the cutlass, and a great number of other articles, were made fast with thongs of raw hide to the bamboo frame. The fore half of the waggon, was separated from the other part, by a canvas partition, to form a sleeping-place, where the bedding lay very conveniently along the tops of the chests. The remaining space was quite filled up with reams of paper, a press, the smaller chests, a large tin collecting box, the brandy barrel, the water casks, and other goods. In the bed, during the hours of travelling, were placed the sextant, and such instruments as were liable to be injured by the rough motion of the waggon. In the chest, on which the driver sits, were the tools and implements for repairing the waggon, and such things as more immediately related to the office of waggon-driver. On the outside of the waggon, the spare yokes, lever, tar-bucket, skid, spades, pick-axe, hatchets, and whip-stocks, were fastened. Beneath, on the trap (or step-frame} 166 A FORTUNATE MEETING. 17, 18 June, the cooking utensils, besides the karosses (cloaks) and bedding of the Hottentots, were secured. That no measure of forethought might be omitted, I appointed agents * in Cape Town, to receive and forward to England the pack- ages and collections, which I might have to send back while au Peni reach of the colony. All my arrangements were now completed, excepting one, which was not of trifling importance: I was still without the proper com- plement of men. No answer had yet been received from the mis- sionary at Groene Kloof, although nearly a fortnight had elapsed. The three that were already hired would have been enough, in the ordinary mode of travelling within the colony, that is, one to drive the waggon, another to lead the team, and the third to take charge of the loose oxen ; but for a journey over deserts and through un- civilised nations, so small a number was very insufficient. Philip had been daily employed in making enquiries, but hitherto without success ; and, therefore, seeing little prospect of hiring Hottentots in Cape Town, I resolved to rely on the chances of obtaining them in my way through the colony. In the afternoon, my two Hottentots were sent to Salt-river to fetch the oxen, and returned with them at sun-set, to be in readiness for the next day. 18th. Early this morning, Philip accidentally met a Hot- tentot acquaintance of his, who had but just arrived in town, and who, not more than two months before, had received his discharge from the Cape regiment. [His old comrade had no sooner mentioned to him the proposed journey, than he expressed the greatest desire to go with us, although he was unfortunately at this time engaged as herdsman in the service of a person of the name of Leibbrandt, who resided in the town. * Messrs. Ranken 6; Scott, English merchants; to whom I am under much obligation, particularly to the latter, during the absence of his partner, for the great care which, during four years, was taken of the different packages that came into their hands. yi . PEE REE HM , wit ee ee er ae eT | Do ee ee é Pi ls ee a . . U at? aggre dc ON ee ged ot * . ; = ik Gr alana ah gaat, A PRP i ae Ah, ’ > k r . a Joe: Ge? eee ee oon ST eg NR cape aap te Biot. Ais! +. Sie Pee et) Te oe . ae. Engraved after the original Drawing made ly WS Burchell Lisg. 1 Sep, I8I4.. A) : f@e ZA Guy pe > op Sheet WL oe Spe London Lublished by Longman &C° August L ISL 1811. SPEELMAN. 167 The master was immediately applied to, and readily consented to relinquish him. Upon which the Hottentot, highly pleased with the change, got himself ready in less than half an hour, with his wife and his budget, to set off with the rest of our party. ‘The name of this Hottentot was Stoffel Speelman * ; his height was above the common standard, being about five feet seven ae : he was of thin and bony figure, and had a very upright port, acquired, perhaps, during his military service, and possessed a share of activity, which in a Hottentot might be accounted considerable. His age, at a guess, (for a Hottentot scarcely ever knows how old ‘he is) might be about forty ; and though his countenance exhibited no features of beauty, it displayed a look of intelligence and readi- ness, which soon prepossessed me with the opinion, that he would prove a very useful addition to my little party. His eyebrows were stronger than usual in this nation; his cheek-bones protuberant ; cheeks hollow ; nose flattened and wide, with large distorted nostrils : his mouth large, and lips thick and projecting; the chin narrow, having several unusual protuberances; and the beard very scanty, excepting on the upper lip. On making enquiry into his character, I learnt that he was an excellent marksman ; an important and valuable qualification, and one which was indispensably required for such an expedition. He was besides, a great traveller, and had visited most parts of the colony. The opportunity of seeing the country beyond the Gariep, and a wish he had long entertained to go to Klaarwater, were the great inducements to add himself to my party. His wife, Hannah, was a genuine Hottentot; and her com- * His portrait is given at Plate 2. It was drawn in September 1814, at the time when he quitted my service; in exactly the same dress which he happened then to wear. His cap, which is a fashion of his own, was made of calf-skin prepared with the hair on. A red cotton handkerchief was bound round his head, and a blue one of the same kind, loosely tied about his neck. He wore a pair of leathern trowsers and a blue cloth jacket, over which was buckled a kogel-tas (bullet-pouch) made ee himself, from the skin of a tiger which he had shot. vr 168 HANNAH. 18, 19 JuNE, plexion, like that of all her race, was of a tawny buff or fawn color ; such as a painter might imagine that of a Guinea negro would be, if half washed off, and a light tint of ochre put over the remainder. Her age was probably about thirty, though she had the appearance of being much older. Her figure was not quite so small as the general size of her country-women ; yet the hands and feet were little. Her manners were heavy and lifeless, with a countenance indicating a dull and stupid mind; while her features were as little handsome as those of her husband. Her eyes unfurnished with eyebrows, were small and set very obliquely ; that is, instead of the four corners being in the same horizontal line, imaginary lines, drawn through both corners of each eye, would intersect as low down as the middle of the nose. From one cheek bone to the other, the space was uniformly flat, the ridge of the nose being scarcely elevated enough to be perceivable. The end of this organ was wide and depressed, the nostrils seeming as if squeezed out of shape; but the mouth and thick lips pouted out much beyond it. The chin was long and forward, and exceedingly pointed and narrow: this narrow- ness of the lower part of the face, being one of the distinguishing features of the Hottentot race. Her short black woolly hair was entirely concealed by a handkerchief bound tight round her head ; a custom followed by every one, who is able to procure it, whether male or female; but particularly by the women, who, conscious that their hair is no ornament, seem desirous of concealing a mark by which they think their inferiority to the colonists is more evidently pointed out. She wore a coarse linen dress made in the Dutch fashion, and shoes of raw hide covered her feet. : Fearing that she would be unable to bear the fatigue of so laborious a journey, or that she might become rather an incumbrance than a serviceable addition to our number, I at first objected to her coming with us ; but as her husband begged earnestly that she might be permitted to go with him, and as she engaged to make herself ‘useful in cooking and washing, I consented toadd a lady to our party. No sooner was this arrangement made, and Speelman’s ragged 1811. THE WAGGON DEPARTS. — THIRD EARTHQUAKE. 169 appearance improved by a new suit of clothes which I immediately gave him, than, without loss of time, he was set to work to assist in loading up the waggon. After which, a team of ten oxen having been siccial from out of the twenty, he set out with the remainder to Salt-river. At length, about noon, every thing being ready for starting, Philip mounted his seat, and taking in his hand the great whip, the emblem of his office, made the street echo with one of his loudest claps; at the same moment, with an animated voice, calling out to the oxen, Loop!* The waggon moved steadily away: T watched its progress till, passing the vaasieles it turned out of sight ; little supposing at that moment, that it would ever pass that castle again; or that, out of the whole party who were now to accompany it, I should be the only person to return with it. M y waggon at this time, with its contents and the oxen which drew it, had already cost me six hundred pounds sterling. In order to be satisfied of its safe arrival at the first stage, I followed on horseback to Salt-river; and after seeing it properly secured for the night, and leaving farther instructions with the men, I returned to town to take my farewell dinner at the Governor’s table. I had now the honor of taking leave of His Excellency, who, apparently with much sincerity, expressed his wishes for my safety and success ; nor ought | here to omit my acknowledgments for the many attentions which I received from His Lordship during my stay in Cape Town. 19th. This morning an event took place, which excited uni- versal alarm, and for a short time interrupted every occupation. At about ten o’clock all the inhabitants were again thrown into terror and consternation, by the shock of an earthquake. The circumstances of this earthquake, differed in several respects, from that which happened on the seventh. No explosion took place, but a tremu- lous hollow sound, somewhat resembling a smothered howling, * Signifying, Go! It is the usual exclamation of the Cape waggoners, when they wish to put dee oxen in motion. Z 170 TAKING LEAVE, AND 19 June; seemed to pass under our feet, in a direction from the north towards the south; occupying a space of time, of about three seconds, and accompanied by a strong trembling of the earth. This was the only shock that occurred: the consequences were the same as before ; the same alarm and confusion took place; but on finding no repetition of it, the fears of the inhabitants more’ easily subsided, and they sooner returned into their houses. Some damage was done to the buildings ; but it was not considerable. The former earthquake was distinguished by an instantaneous and very loud explosion in the — atmosphere, without any trembling movement of the earth: this occupied a very sensible duration of time, and the field of its action was very perceptibly subterraneous. Yet it can hardly be doubted that the essential principle was the same, and that in both, electric matter was the great agent. In taking leave of my esteemed friend, Mr. Hesse, I was unable to suppress those painful feelings, which the idea of so long a farewell could not fail to excite. The recollections of my stay at the Cape, will ever remind me of the pleasure I have enjoyed in his society, of the hospitality I experienced in his house, and of the obliging and friendly attentions of his lady and of the different members of her family. * At a little before noon, I took my final departure from Cape Town ; and, accompanied by two of my friends, rode to Salt-river, where I found Mr. Anderson had already given the necessary orders for putting the oxen to the waggons. The whole party were soon in motion; and, taking the road over the flats, between bushes and hillocks of sand, were presently out of sight. The writing ofa letter detained me a short time; we then mounted our horses, and hastened to overtake the waggon. We came up with it in half an hour, and continued following at a slow pace, for some time longer, during which my friends were insensibly increasing their distance from home, led on, both by the desire of * The family of Bergh is one of the most respectable in Cape Town: various situa- tions under government, of trust and responsibility, have been filled by them, during three generations. 1811. FINAL DEPARTURE FROM CAPE TOWN. 171 prolonging a last conversation, and by a reluctance to bid an adieu, that was to be succeeded by an absence of which neither could foresee the duration. At last, we bade farewell: they turned their horses towards Cape Town, while I mounted my waggon, and threw myself on the mattress, to repose a while, and recover from the bodily fatigue and the exhaustion of spirits, which the exertions of the last two days had occasioned ; as well as to relieve some perturbation of mind, arising from the thoughts of having now taken leave of my family, and all my friends, perhaps for ever. N to CHAPTER IX. JOURNEY FROM CAPE TOWN TO TULBAGH. Tue waggon moved slowly and silently on, over deep sands; the whole of our journey this day being over the downs, which embrace the southern side of Table Bay. Being now quite released from all business and bustle of the town, the quiet of this easy travelling soon restored tranquillity to my nerves. After an hour’s rest, I felt able to follow the waggons on foot, wishing not to lose the oppor- tunity of observing the nature of the country as we passed. But nothing met my eye, which I had not already seen elsewhere. In most places, these sands were covered with low bushes of the same kinds as before noticed in the other parts of the Sand Flats. _ After travelling three hours, we arrived at a pool of water, called Zand-valléy (Sand-pond) situated between Tygerberg and the bay. It being one of the regular outspan-places of the boors, we halted here for the night. Our oxen were turned loose among the bushes to graze, or rather to browze, while the Hottentots kindled a fire with wonderful expedition. We were obliged to make coffee with brackish water, no better being to be found at this place. 19, 2) June, 1811. SCENE BY FIRE-LIGHT. 173 In the evening, our little caravan, which consisted only of the Missionary’s waggon and people, together with my own, had to me, who till now had never passed a night in the open air, a most curious and romantic appearance. * The novelty of the scene kept my mind continually amused, and the sight of the Hottentots, and all their movements, fixed my attention. Their number was about a dozen, men and women: they seemed now to have recovered their natural manners, havirig left behind them the constraints of Cape Town. It was easy to perceive, that this was the mode of life which suited them, and that they felt quite at home amongst the bushes. Seated on the ground by a blazing fire, they passed the time in talking and smoking; while the light, thrown against the nearer shrubs, and various parts of the waggons, produced an effect really picturesque. As soon as their supper was finished, they retired to sleep ; some wrapping themselves up in their karosses, (sheep-skin cloaks,) lay down under a bush, others by the fire, and others under the waggons, sheltered from the wind by a skreen of mats. 20th. In the morning I arose, refreshed by sleep, and recovered from all indisposition. The business of the day commenced by examining the state of the waggons and oxen, and giving out orders to the men. Mrs. Anderson, who was to accompany her husband to Klaarwater, having yesterday remained at Salt-river, joined us this morning at eight o’ clock, attended by a party of friends. We proceeded on our journey at two in the afternoon, and after a.few miles, began to ascend Tygerberg. Here the party who had travelled with us from Zand-valley took their leave; and as soon as we were nearly out of sight, they repeatedly saluted us with the reports of their pistols, which they had brought for that purpose ; this being an old colonial custom. They thus bade us their last farewell, while we waved our hats, and returned it by discharging our muskets. There was something pleasing, though melancholy, * The engraving at the beginning of this chapter is a representation of one of these night-parties. 174 . PAMPOEN KRAAL, : 20, 21 June, in this custom: it was one which certainly owed its origin to no other feeling than that of heartfelt goodwill. The journey they had left us to pursue, was long and not free from danger: none of us could feel assured of meeting again. The missionaries were about to take up their residence for several years. on the other side of the Gariep, and in that time the ordinary casualties of human life might naturally be expected to lessen our number. For some time after their friends were lost to our view, we continued to hear the reports of their pistols; to which we as often replied, till, crossing the mountain, we could hear each other no longer. It had been agreed that we should generally proceed only by easy stages, that the strength of the oxen might not be exhausted before we reached Klaarwater: and this slow progress perfectly accorded with my views of travelling. We therefore unyoked at an outspan- place, called Pampoen Kraal, (Pumpkin Kraal); where, during the stillness of the night, we could plainly hear the noise of the surf on the shore of Table Bay. Q1st. From midnight till two o’clock this afternoon, there was a continuance of rain: this occasioned the wood to be so wet, that we had great difficulty in making fires. The veld-cornet here, paid a visit to our waggons, merely out of curiosity to know who we were. We purchased from him some wine and bread, and I obtained also a voortouw (fore-rope) or short trektouw, which, it was found, would be required occasionally to hook on at the end of the draw-rope, whenever it was necessary to employ a larger team than ten or twelve oxen. We soon observed that my waggon was so heavily laden, that fewer than fourteen were not enough to draw it; and that, in conse- quence of so disproportionate a weight resting on these narrow wheels, the waggon had once or twice, in the course of the day before, escaped sinking into the ground, only by whipping the oxen hastily over those parts of the road where the ground happened to be softer than in others. At this place grows in abundance a small plant * said by the * Euphorbia tuberosa. 1811. OXEN DISORDERED. —A HOTTENTOT FACULTY. 175 - boors to occasion the strangury, at a certain time of the year, if eaten by the oxen; and this appeared confirmed by the fact that several of our oxen were at this spot actually taken ill of that disorder. It would seem that its acrid milky juice has the quality of inspissating the liquor of the stomach. The Hottentots have a practice of removing the obstruction, and in most cases succeed in giving relief: such fortunately was the case at this time. Whether the complaint be caused by this weed alone, or by any other, I could not ascertain; but it is probable that several species of Euphorbia have the same deleterious effect, as Thunberg attributes it in like manner to the Euphorbia genistotdes, a plant which I did not observe growing any where hereabouts.* Stones and veins in the earth, having outwardly some resemblance to volcanic matter, were noticed at this spot. As soon as the weather began to clear up, we prepared for departing. Standing attentive to all that was going on, and noticing the manner in which my men yoked the oxen to the waggon, I was surprised to find they all were as well acquainted with the name of every individual ox, and knew the place in the team where each had been trained to draw, as if they had been used to them for several years. Their quickness and memory, in every thing relating to cattle, is really astonishing; of which numberless proofs have occurred in the course of these travels. When Magers and his companion were sent into the Bokkeveld to fetch home the oxen, the farmer of whom they were bought, having mustered the whole, merely repeated their names and places in the team. These, he correctly retained in his memory, and afterwards again repeated to Jan Kok, Philip, and Speelman, who now called each ox by his name with the utmost readiness. This faculty, common to Hottentots, and to all the African tribes that I visited, shows the high degree of * At Pampoen Kraal may be found : Microloma sagittatum, Tetragonia hirsuta, and Galaxia ciliata. 176 GREEN FIREWOOD. 22, 23 June. perfection to which any particular use of the mind may be brought by constant exercise; for, with these people, tending and managing their cattle is the grand employment of life. For myself, it was a long time before I was able to distinguish my own team, even from those belonging to the other waggons. The weather prevented our setting out until a late hour, and it became dark before we had advanced more than seven miles and a half; when we unyoked at an outspan-place, in the midst of rhinoceros-bushes, which abound in this part of the country. 22nd. ‘This day proved very fine ; and so early as eight o’clock in the morning, the thermometer was not lower than 57’ (11:1 R.; 13:8 C.) although it was now the depth of winter; a circumstance from which some estimate may be formed of the general mildness of - the winters at the Cape. Soon after we left this place, Table Mountain was seen very distinctly : its form is too remarkable, in this part of the colony, to be mistaken for any other. During the whole of this day’s journey, which was twenty miles, the road was exceedingly even, being over an open, and, in most parts, a rhinoceros-bush country. * After advancing a couple of hours, we halted to take dinner ; while the oxen were left standing in the yoke. I could not but admire the expedition with which the Hottentots made a fire and broiled their meat. The rhinoceros-bush is well known for its valuable property of burning while green, as freely as the driest fuel; and whole plants which we threw on the fire, blazed up in an instant, the larger stems giving a very strong heat and flame. Although one may venture to assert that the whole plant contains a considerable quantity of either inflammable oil, or resinous gum, these are not discoverable by the eye. We continued travelling by moonlight, till a little before nine * A variety of proteaceous plants, decorate the sides of the road: among them were Protea scolymus three feet high, and Mimetes purpurea. A very pretty Blairia, forming a little shrub a foot and a half high, was now covered with blossom. 1811. ACCIDENT AT OLYVENHOUT-BOSCH. 177 in the evening, when an accident suddenly put a stop to our further progress this night. Philip, happening unluckily to drive a few yards out of the beaten road, on ground which was sandy and much softened by yesterday’s rain, the waggon sunk into the earth up to the axletrees, and defied all our power to move it from the spot. Immediately we set to work with pickaxe and spades to, clear away the earth from before the wheels; and four oxen more being then added to the team, we succeeded in releasing the waggon. But before it had advanced a yard forward, it sunk again as deep as before; and with the struggling of the cattle to drag it out, the fore-rope snapped asunder, and the pole broke; nor was it possible to extricate the waggon without unloading a great part of its contents. _ This dilemma obliged us to wait till